In the middle of the Big Chief-center wall cave there sits a climb that doesn't look quite as daunting as the routes that surround it. It starts atop a large boulder and is adjacent to the largest tree on the downhill side of the base area in the .

Climb up a overhung face using huge jugs up straight up the face using four bolts. The crux is located around the fourth bolt, and is a great move.  The first bolt of this route is shared with Peace Pipe (5.11d) which heads from the first bolt out to the right, and meets back up at the top anchors.

Pow Wow

Mohawk

Raindance

Peace Pipe

Ghost Dance

Peace Dance

[Redacted]

Witch Doctor

War Path

War Paint

This is the second from the right route of the not so overhung (5.12ish) cave in the center wall.

Climbing is never hard, but is sustained overhang and pumpy the whole way up.  Rests can be found after nearly every move with some creativity.

The crux is getting to the first bolt, and cheating in from the right seems to be a preferred choice for the route, though it doesn't make it any easier.  This route is all jugs once you get past the first bolt.

This route is in the less overhung (comparitively) cave in the center section of the Big Chief center area.  It's still really overhung, but not as much as the other overhung area about 150 feet uphill and left.  This route is 5 routes to the left of War Paint (5.9), which always has people on it in the mornings.  It also shares the first bolt with the overhung and very juggy Mohawk, which moves up and right, while Raindance moves straight up.

Sustained overhang has an excellent section to the first bolt, and then a serverely overhung, balancy and tough crux moving from the third bolt to the fourth bolt.  From the fourth bolt on, expect sustained 5.11a or tougher reaches to huge jugs, until a crimpy and balancy interesting clip into the top anchors.

Badass.

Starts on an ear-shaped pocket underneath Pow Wow. Stick clip first bolt and traverse right on large huecos before climbing straight up to the roof. A contrived finish traverses left on the roof to Pow Wow's chains, this route climb in a leftward facing horseshoe pattern.

This is a great route that deserves just as much traffic as the other 2 12's on the wall. The first couple bolts can be hard to decipher and feel insecure getting to the big undercling. After this pull a few moves through two cracks on pretty good holds to a good rest. From here follow a sloper rail to a crux that involves crimps, slopers, and pockets. Continue on easier climbing for one more bolt to the top.

Same start as for Peace Pipe on an ear-shaped pocket underneath Pow Wow. Stick clip first bolt and traverse right on large huecos before climbing straight up to the roof. Instead of traversing left as for Peace Pipe at the 3rd bolt, continue slightly right and vertically over the roof on new bolts to the headwall until reaching the anchors of Ghost Dance. A more natural and direct finish to Peace Pipe making this a full length classic.

A slight step up from Raindance in terms of difficulty.  Overhanging, blocky corner to a difficult move past a seriously sharp pocket (hence the name "Scalper") at the top of corner.  The last few bolts remain steep but on easier terrain, especially if you go left.

This route starts just right of Mohawk, and goes past 4 or 5 clips to joint Mohawk at it's last bolt and anchors, as well as final 10' of climbing. The crux is getting off of the ground for the first 10-15' into a tight, left facing corner. Stem and drop-knee. The right side fo said corner has a small amount of suspect rock.

To find this route, head left (climbers right) after passing through the summit notch of the Certer wall and go perhaps 150 meters past a few large trees to an area where the wall is pretty vertical and the trail is broad and flat. 2 just-less-thatn-vertical 5.9's are there with anchors high up on the wall. These are War Path (left) and War Paint (right).War Path is the longer of the two routes and is primarily easier climbing with two short cruxes on solid holds (if you have the reach) or reasonable holds (if you are short) either way, the climb is a little easy for 5.9.It's a good route, one of the better ones at the wall.

This route ascends a vertcal face, that leads to a slab, and then back up the vertical face on the rightside of the less overhung cave, and just before the corner that hides viewing of the routes around it from inside the very overhung cave.

Two sections are sustained 5.9 climbing, though it's very well protected.Fun moves challenging using almost every vertical 5.9 move there is, except offwidth (which I don't like anyways!)

Description

Protection

Routes in Center Wall