Cowboy in the Dirt

Rehab

Nonameyet

Pour the Lead

Straight Outta Lockmont

Triple C

Crescent Corner

Johnny Bravo

Flounder

Blaze Got a New Job

Pat-Agonia

Bongo

Huaqueros

After Forever

How Could Hell Be Any Worse?

Charlotte Corner

Tacos Pescados

Thunderdome

Fishbone

Six Gun Serenade

Don Miron

Blimey

East Meck Shoot Out

Logos

28 Weeks Later

Waverly

Gimme a Clown

Jowiki

Java

Subdivisions

Max Payne

Godzilla and Little Foot

Flight of the Kiwi

Wafer

[Redacted]

Lil Boba

Playa

Doing Time

Cowboys

Hat Change

Masuko

Where have All the Cowboys Gone?

One Bolt Wonder

Morse Code

Bali

Oakley

Latch Key Kids

Wendy's Arete

Unknown name

Bender

Jay's Corner

Holy Mackerel

Whinerlamer

Raw Milk

Jason and the Arguenots

Mythos

Pondless

Unnamed crack

Unholy Mackerel

Back to the Known

Mojo Jojo Crack

Fun route with big ol' cave up towards the top. Usually drys quickly after a rain.

Trad climbers rejoice, you have a phenomonal finger lock crux from bolts 3-5. This climb is so good based on those cruxes alone!

Work up the dihedral created by the ledge to some high steps with good holds. Get into a section of underclings with a bigger move or two, and begin the search for the best hold from which to clip the anchors.

This is the route which climbs a blunt arete of the buttress. Great moves in overhung part. Per guidebook 5.10b, but  today it felt as at least 5.10d.

"Climbs a brainy face through a steep section." according to Williams' guidebook.

Climb the face with a mix of slab and a small roof to the anchors.

Another worthwhile Whippoorwill trad line. Climb up to the obvious corner. Make a mix of crack, stemming, and face moves to reach a good stance (crux). Move right to the face, and continue up the very cool horizontals to the anchor.

An overhanging jug haul that can be climbed year long on both ropes and DWS.

Thin face climbing on seemingly invisible holds.

This route has fairly continuous climbing, great rock quality, and nice moves.  The first bolt hanger is missing (originally 5 bolts) so you might want to stick clip.

Crux is probably clipping the 2nd bolt on thin feet and a crimpy sidepull. 4th bolt to anchors is a little stretched out but it is on easier climbing with a traverse right.

The second line on the wall south to access gully.

Follow a couple thin moves to much easier climbing above.  Crux is low on this one.

A must for the aspiring adventure slab climber!

Climb the low angle face sifting through the sea of lichen for anything to aid in your upward progression. Enjoy a few thought provoking moves at the top of the slab, then keep it together through the steeper section to the anchors.

This is a very nice trad route and on a busy day might be one of the few routes without a line on it, a good reason to bring a rack down to whippoorwill.

Start in the corner near the cave, climb up the very enjoyable corner with some good moves. At the roof, traverse right to some very good holds out on the face. Finish up the face and crack, aiming for the bolted anchors.

Fire up the steep lower section to a crux just after the angle gives way. High feet and even a finger lock guard the rest of the tough section, after which you run it out through easier climbing to the top.

Climb up and over a left facing flake, the anchors are right below a curved hemlock tree. This climb is really fun and worth doing.

The crux is right after the second bolt, the third bolt is currently missing the hanger, but can be protected with a C4 00. There is a committing move after the third bolt, followed by very fun climbing through a slightly overhung section and a two small roofs. Very fun route. If you are looking for a 12 in the area this is it!

A little bit of everything: finger crack, balancey arete moves, crimps, underclings. Sustained after 20ft up, the crux comes balancing the arete moves. Miles harder than Flounder but definitely more satifying.

Angler route with nothing really difficult except for the one move overhang. One 10c move then gets pretty easy; bolted to this point. Extra bolts have been places that goes strait up from the hueco but its too easy, like ladder easy.

Climb the face just left of Masuko. There are some long reaches between pockets on this one. Some holds have broken, making this route a grade or two harder.

Go past Jason and the Argonauts and cross the talus field over the short creek until you hit the next vertical wall of sport climbs. This wall will be just right of a huge roof and a cool V2 boulder problem on a free standing boulder under the roof.

Blimey is the second most right route on the wall, just left of Pondless. This is a good warm up for the wall. Face climbing and route finding (if there is no chalk) will get you up this thing.

Start roughly 8 feet left of the route After Forever, which is immediately left of Wendy's Jugs.  Start on a juggy crack system and follow it to overhanging jugs.

Stick clip and climb the roof and face.  Underwater during the summer months.

Crux is at the first two bolts.  All the holds are there, you just have to find them.  Once you surmount the ledge, the climbing eases significantly, which is the hallmark trait of pretty much this entire wall.

Stick clip and then boulder off the ground to reach an obvious jug system left of the second bolt. Proceed rightwards

up the pristine left facing ramp, gastoning and sidepulling with smeary feet. Clip, then lunge and keep your wits about you

to escape the white rock section.

The difficulty lets up as you head towards the anchors, but tread carefully - the rock quality decreases as well.

What a nice 5.9!   Start to the left of the high first bolt and climb up to reach a nice ledge and traverse right to make the first clip.   From here, head up and right to the 2nd bolt (crux).   It's nothing but jugs from here.   This route is every bit as good as the many moderates on Orange Oswald Wall.

Climb a corner to a ledge and then head up the corner slightly to the left.

Short route with a left facing corner at the top

The crux is coming out of the roof at bolt 5 with some longer moves, from a side pull to crimp to side pull to crimp, then hop! This is a very fun route, it may be in your best interest to dog the first go to brush off the perpetual dirt through the first 2/3 bolts.

Fun route that starts to the left of a thin crack and has some cool exposed moves onto a small arete at the top

The corner route right of Ching, Chang, Chong.

Climb the arete.  The moves to the second bolt are very bouldery.  The crux is reaching the 3rd bolt.  Here you will find a very reachy technical move or a cool dyno to reach a really positve hold.  Climbing after this is significantly easier to the shuts.

Climb straight up on in-cut jugs, clipping bolts along the way.  Several good rests and solid rock.

Furthest left of the 4 bolted routes on a short wall. A few slabby moves down low and then pulling on good holds to the anchors.

Straightforward climbing with one tough move working out to the left brings you up to the roof. If you're thinking 'boy, this feels pretty easy for a 12 so far, these moves over the roof must be nails!' then you are correct. Grab the two good pockets, then figure out a sequence through the tiny and/or severely slopey holds above. Easy climbing to the top from there. Boulderers, this route is for you.

Direct route that starts on the left side of the hueco.

Start by clipping the very low bolt while standing on a boulder.  Climb staight up the arete like feature to reach an overhang.  Awkward moves over the overhang will put you on a face with a crack with a few pods.  Climb the face to reach a large ledge and shuts.

This is a very high quality route. The first bolt is quite high (20 feet), consider stick clipping it. Start by climbing straight up passing the first bolt to reach the overhang. Pass the overhang on the left side following a flake. Diagonal up and right to reach a nice rest in a horizontal. From here, go straight up on some small and sloping holds aiming for a jug about 5 feet to the right of the next bolt (crux). From here, diagonal up and left to the finish, the climb gives you one more move to think about as you head to the shuts. This route is one of the first to get sun at this area.

Trad placement only lasts for ~25 feet then you hit the bolt and after that its pretty much a ladder. If you're there with some nuts, you might as well do it.

Begin at the obvious crack near the ground just left of Bongo. Pull the roof and continue past the ledge to the face above. Gear in horizontals until you reach the the one bolt at the crux beneath the anchors. Most of the route is ~ 5.7 and the crux is bolted.

To find this new route (not in the second edition Mike Williams guide book), go way past Jason and the Argonauts, cross the creek, and find a huge roof with a cool boulder problem under. You'll find two bolted routes climber's left of the roof around the arete, the more left route being Morse Code.

This route climbs up vertical rock for ~50 feet. It starts to get steeper and bulbous for the last 35 feet. The beginning is fairly easy terrain starting out but be careful, the run outs are big and a fall in a few places would be epic.

As the route starts to get a bit steeper and makes its way through bulbous terrain and a few roofs, you'll enter the crux. Surmount the roof and be ready to stay on guard for the next few bolts until you reach the anchors. Long reaches and trusting slopey holds will get you to the chains.

This route follows the obvious right-angling crack.

Crux near the top, otherwise really easy route.

Sustained route with approximately 4 different 5.10a cruxes throughout.

Nice holds up good quality rock. Very comfortable lead with nice clip stances.

Balancy face/slab to powerful overhanging moves which finishes off with a number of chicken heads to the chains.

Not sure how this route intended the climbing to go but I went WAYYYYYY right at the 3rd or 4th bolt. falling there would have not been fun. Some of these flakes seem thin. Tread lightly.

Also, if you know the name of this route and the FA, please update MP. Thanks!

A sustained fun climb on super solid white rock.

Climb up the easier terrain to the high first bolt. Continue up to the overhang where the business starts. Crimp hard and work to a jug and some easier moves to follow. Catch a much needed rest on the ledge and fire the last few moves on the increasingly slopier holds to a balancy finish.

Start on a Large Boulder that is normally underwater. Below a big Roof.  Ascend the highly featured arete up to a ledge below the roof.  Then head right up a lichen corner to a Pine Tree.  Rap or Anchor from the pine tree

Start at a right facing crack that angles right near the top that puts you on a nice belay ledge about 50  ft. up. The belay ledge at the top is an awesome ledge to take photos.

One crux may be gaining a small ledge and a second may be surpassing the dihedral to reach the anchors. This route is hard for the grade with moves that are not intuitive.

Pumpy leftward traverse to a good rest, and then some tiny crimps at the crux.  Clipping the anchors can be tricky.

Great little route for boulderers.  Stick clippin the first bolt is advisable, as the first moves are strong and the landing horrible.  All together there are some bad fall possibilities here, but the clipping stances are great, just don't pump out with and handful of slack, mid-clip.  The V4 crux at midheight is a great little boulder problem.

Follow the broken crack to a horizontal break. Climb a tricky sequence on iron crimps and jugs, trending left to gain the shared anchor with wafer.

This route starts on the same wall as Blimey. Go past Jason and the Argonauts and cross the creek to find the vertical wall with 5 sport climbs.

Pondless is a sandbag and be ready for techy 11+ climbing. Strong fingers, high steps, and techy footwork will help you reach the anchors on this.

I talked to Rudaw about the grade on this route after i climbed it, not knowing the grade and guessing it to be around 11d/12a. He said 11b. It's funny because I mentioned to my friends (both strong climbers who were having trouble with the crux) that this would be 5.11- in some places in the country but it would be more consistent with 11c/d at the New. Rudaw is all over the place with his grading (perhaps he comes from a background where grades are way stiffer, maybe techy climbing is just that technical and not "that" hard, some of his routes clearly don't go direct through the bolt line and circumnavigate cruxes), but when you come across a good Rudaw route, you appreciate the job he has done opening new routes in our region.

Get on this thing (and all Rudaw routes) and be ready for anything regardless of the grade.

Starts either from the ground in a dirty corner that's underwater much of the year, or from a ledge directly right. For full value, pull a juggy roof move from the ground, then plug your first piece. Or traverse in from the ledge on the right. Great holds and a jam or two will get you to a 2 bolt anchor with rings.

Start about 8 ft. right of Holy Mackerel crack. climb the face up small ledges and crimps to a vertical crack. Make a long move to a good edge and finish up on the big belay ledge to a set of shared ring anchors for Holy Mackerel.

Climb up a few big holds to a jug, slam some bomber small gear in the crack and fire the low crux on finger locks and good feet. Once established in the vertical crack, keep the pump at bay up ever easier terrain to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Whippoorwill