All three Checkerboard Wall routes use the same approach (Left .10b. Center 5.9, Right 5.8). Climb a grainy crack that starts on the northeast corner of the rock (hard to get off the ground) to a nice ledge at the bottom of the Checkerboard (optional belay here). An airy traverse left leads to the Left option, or climb straight up to the Center crack or right to Right crack. The Left option climbs a short, very thin face to reach the arete, which it follows to the summit of the North Tower. The other two variations follow cracks and face to the summit.

Checkerboard Wall

Rat Crack

God-Stopper

This route climbs the big, clean corner to the right of God-Stopper. Interesting stemming and jamming leads to the crux finger-sized crack. Fun and well-protected.

The 2016 Bingham guide is now clear on these routes and God-Stoppe ris the straight-in splitter. Unfortunately the rock quality at the start is not great, but protection is good. Climb the pockety handcrack past a detached flake and packrat nest to reach a short bit of wide hands. Arrange protection for a thin move up to the second horizontal and traverse right to the final thin crack. This crack gradually opens to hands, but pinches back down to a cruxy finish.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shangri La