This a fun, steep crack climb with good gear. The crux is at the bottom, but there is good fun to be had the whole way. It is a little bit grotty, but don't let that dissuade you.

Rolofson's guidebook rates this 11d, but we found it easier than some easier rated climbs we did at Primo Wall.

Semi -Automatic

Knight Walker

Ken T'ank Low Start

I Don't Know What It's Called, I Just Know The Sound It Makes When It Takes A Man's Life (aka Beretta)

Siberian Express

Fission aka Ken T'ank

The Overhangover

Off the Couch

The Diggler

Fully Automatic

The Gauntlet

Handicapable

Fully Automatic is a fun, bouldery alternate start to the trad climb,

Semi-Automatic

.  Luke Childers placed the bolts on the line on the arete in 2011, which, after the 3rd/4th bolt, the climbing trends directly into the dihedral, and not straight up the arete (and the moves on the upper arete are HARD).  So, I decided to link the start of this bolted route to the finish of the trad line, creating Fully Automatic.

Power past four bolts on the burly, slopey underclings and crappy smears on the overhanging wall that slopes away from you, making the smears that much worse.  Work over to the arete and turn the corner into the dihedral.  The initial boulder problem is very sequential, and I recommend a stick clip for the first two bolts, otherwise you could have a bad fall.

This long forgotten about variation climbs up the difficult looking seam just left of

Ken T’ank’s

upper section.

Start by climbing the first crimp crux of

Ken T’ank

, to the massive jug rest, (although the first ascensionist did not use the leg wrap out far right). From the rest, move left to a jug flake with foot smears, then move into an upside down slot, and make a hard clip. The rest of the crux is very beta intensive, and there are several ways to do it (hint: right toe hook for last move). This has four star rock, has four star movement, and in my opinion, is a four star line. Don’t be put off by its close position to

Ken T’ank

, you have to be very tall and strong to move back into that rock climb once you are in the crux. It felt 5.14- for me, but with different beta and climbing style, it could feel harder or easier. Still, it’s a great climb, and I hope it receives the attention it deserves.

Start as low as possible on a white jug.  Boulder steep, fun and easy moves on jugs to a harder section with a big undercling and a couple right hand crimps.  Rest at the start of

Ken T'ank

(but not on the ground!), clip a rope onto your harness, and climb Ken T'ank.

IDKWICIJKTSIMWITAML offers non-stop bouldering up a stunning prow of flawless rock.  The movement is cerebral, continuous, and dynamic, resulting in one of the finest power endurance 5.14s on the Front Range.

The line has three distinct characters.  The first requires burly underclinging to reach a strenuous shake.  Next comes the crux--sequential edging to a show-stopping throw.  Finally, technical, balancy arête dancing leads to the top of the cliff.

Open project - this is the direct start to

The Gauntlet

. All the moves have been done. It is roughly V10 into V12. A good wingspan is a must or you won't be able to reach the holds. Although there is a red tag on it, it is an open project. I haven't gotten around to taking it off. Get on it and have fun.

This is a great route and far enough away from the road to be enjoyable.

This route is downstream from the main Primo Wall cliff.  Pass the main wall, and then pass a slab (with 5.9 and 12b routes) until you reach a wall that is almost perpendicular with the river.  Someone wrote "Ken T'ank" in chalk at the base of the route.  The upper portion of this wall has very cool wave shapes.  Also look for a small bush halfway up the wall.

The route moves up through thin crimps to a toss to a sloper. The mid-section of the route is jugs leading to a great rest.  Then finish up through bearhug moves as you slap 2 aretes.  It has very interesting movement and is one of the better routes I've climbed at Clear Creek.

Midway up the route, there are a few bolts diverging off to the left.  It looks like a variation that is much harder, and I'm not sure if it's completed.

This is a beautiful, overhanging face that continues up and right after starting on

The Gauntlet

. The hard climbing on this route is separated by 2 great rests, so rest up when you can and power through the hard sections until you reach the steep and juggy finish.

Off the Couch has fun face climbing on some crimpers and jugs.  It is a good warmup for harder routes in the area.

NOTE:  FA:  Luke Childers, June 2011.

FFA: Kevin Capps in July 2011.

This little number was originally bolted to provide a warm up for the Armory.  Turns out it's just a touch hard for a warm up, I think!!??!!

This line has nice solid stone and good movement.  The climbing is demanding and powerful right off the bat!! with the crux kicking in around the 2nd bolt.  The upper section is quite a bit easier.  The moves are fun, but I only give the line one star because it is quite short, but it is worth a send if you're in the area.  Currently it's the easiest sport route at the Armory.  Not a good line to get on in the heat of the summer!!!

Start with an overhung stem dihedral, crank off of a flake, and reach into the left angling and sharp finger crack in solid orange stone. Pull around the roof to difficult clip, finish with steep crimps on the narrow pillar. It is sustained and overhung most of the way.

Handicapable -  someone who is crippled or handicapped but takes offense at those terms and prefers "handicapable."  I bolted and sent this route while recovering from a broken ankle.

It has bouldery and gymnastic moves through a steep shield of rock.  Great climbing, I just wish it was longer!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Armory