The route begins on the north west side of the tower above the road. Find an easier way up through the lower cliffs to get to the base.

Pitch 1 = a bolt ladder with a few moves of C1 in the crack gets you to a hanging belay.

Pitch 2 = a long crack of varying size, but focussed on blue tcu's Conceivably, you could link p2 and p3, but we broke it up as we were running out of gear. Pitch 3 has some sandy free moves, so you wanna mitigate the rope drag. Its gonna be pretty hard to carry all that gear. We belayed off a drilled angle and a couple of friends about 80 feet up and just below the roof. This probably goes at 5.11, but we were pulling on our gear.

Pitch 3. From the hanging stance, we free climbed, clipping a couple bolts, on sandy and weak rock. Lots of slopey, sandy moves. Its only like 5.9 or 10a, but it is heady. After 50 or 60  feet  belay from a good anchor on the ledge.

Pitch 4 = We climbed to the summit, going around the top to the east side. There is an old anchor over there. However, its like 5.4 so we just climbed it (minimal gear) and then reversed it. There is no anchor on the absolute summit as it is rotten.

From top of pitch 3, rap to pitch 1. Two 70's would actually reach the ground from here, but not two 60's.

The Tiff

Bare Knuckle Boxing

Climb up ledge to start of left facing flake. lieback around flake and move into right crack. Surmount yet another flake/ledge and tred gently to the base of the clean corner. Climb the perfect corner for ~100' to the chains. Route still has some loose rock on it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Longs Canyon Tower