Stick clip the first bolt as some of the hardest moves are before you get to it. A difficult pull off of a slopey pinch to a decent pocket gets you started. The difficulty of the start yields to big pulls on good holds and less steep rock. As the angle kicks back towards the top the jugs are replaced by pockets and eventually slopers near the anchor, the holds get better the higher you go.

Stranglehold

House of Youth

Jade

Rain Dance

Angular Momentum

Spanish Fly

House of Pain

Lord of the Dance

Burning Sensations (Bastard Direct)

Velcro Rodeo

Irreverent Youth

Catharsis Roof

Bastards in the Brothel

Fantastic Reimers route where sending comes down to a single redpoint crux at the last bolt. This climb starts on the same boulder as does stranglehold and traverses left on some suspicious pockets to the first bolt. The climbing eases off until the rusty pin. This section involves clinching an open handed pinch with your left and crimping hard on a half pad crimp with your right and bumping with your right to a jug. Don't fall at this point because the anchors are near.

Climb 'House of Pain' through the first 3 bolts and up to it's rest hold, then finish up Irreverent Youth. 

  Harder than House of Pain. I recommend not clipping the 4th bolt of House of Pain, and instead reach left from the rest hold and clip the 5th bolt of Irreverent. From there move up and clip the 6th bolt of Irreverent, downclimb back to the jug and rest as long as you need. This puts the rope below you as you try the upper moves of Irreverent and makes falling safer and more comfortable.

Stunning route on the left side of the cliff that starts with 5.10 climbing to a mini roof that pulls on jugs, then traverses right on slopers, to a juggy yet run out top section

Start as for Jade, up on the ledge with those delicious tufas. Climb through the first 3 bolts of Jade, then instead of pulling over the mini-roof, traverse right around the blunt arete. Cross over Spanish Fly, then go up and right to the anchors of Irreverent Youth.  

  3 bolts of Jade, 2 bolts for AM, 1 bolt of Spanish Fly, 1 bolt for AM, anchors of Irreverent. 

  The crux is turning the corner and getting to the jugs on Spanish Fly. The other crux is keeping your hands not dirty/dusty.

Start out on a block and move up into some underclings then a big shelf. Reach up to a crimp and make a long move to a pocket. From here you can either jump for a flake jug or make a couple more moves up some nicely textured holds then reach the jug. From here some long pulls on good holds takes you up the less steep face to the anchors.

Bouldery with rests. Steep climbing off the ledge leads to a difficult and cryptic sequence getting past the second bolt, think high right heal hook. A couple small pockets and some easier climbing leads to a good rest below the final bulge. A difficult cross either going to or off of a pocket to some more jugs then up on some slopy holds to the anchor. Would be classic except for the 4 drilled pockets, quite fun none the less.

Starts with long moves up and right to some tuffa features. Then a boulder problem on a really small hold takes you up to the first head size hueco. Some long moves on OK holds leads to the second head size hueco. Take a quick rest and make a huge move up to a pocket and a few more small but good holds takes you to the anchor.

The direct line to the Bastard in the Brothel is now bolted. 4 new bolts lead to the existing two and anchors.

Start on the rightmost side of the triangle slab boulder at the base of Rain Dance, Strangehold, and this route. Climb up through 4 bolts of goodness.

Make some tough moves up on crimps and a pinch to a big move to a sharp hold left of the second bolt. From here make some moves up on pinchy side-pulls then on some crimps, clip the 3rd bolt off of any of these. Move up onto slopers, then improving holds eventually gaining the rest on House of Pain. After you've rested make moves up on sloping holds and a sharp, small side-pull finishing with a punch to a jug that requires a bit of accuracy to hit well. Easier moves take you to the top.

Takes the pump of Jade into a more difficult finish. Make moves up to slopers and a long pull to a jug and the last clip. Slopey body tension moves take you over the final roof and some scrunchy moves getting your feet over the lip.

High crux over the last bolt.  Crank the gaston and then layback like a mofo and scramble up some bad crimps

Full of many hard routes with bomber rock. Routes range from 5.11 to 5.13+. Routes are covered in shade much of the day.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in House of Pain