Start T-Bone Shuffle and when you get to the horn head straight up the arete with long moves. The holds start a little thin, but get better the higher you go. Beware of choss.

T-Bone Kerfuffle

Baby Morgue

The Morgue

T-Bone Shuffle

There's an error in Matt Wilders guide stating that this is Playtex Husband. However. Playtex Husband was established many years before this and can be found further down on the blunt arete. The correct listing is in J. Sherman's 2nd Edition Guide on pages 36-37. I established this BP with friends during 1997. Anyway, 

  Start way back in the cave on the deep jug flake. Under-cling the flake and follow it out to the lip. The flake turns into a vertical crack. Climb the crack to the top.  

  V2 Variation:   Escape the vertical crack finish by traversing left on the lip to the hueco line. Follow the huecos to the top on easy rock.

This is the best roof crack at Hueco Tanks.  There are several starts - my preferred start is a low sit start. Two finishes to this route: exit when the crack ends at V4 or squeeze through the gap at V5. 

  Good tape job mandatory.  Send this one and you're ready for Separate Reality.

This route starts low and right with a campus move, then traverses left beneath a bulge until you are under two distinct huecos. Make a long reach for a dish with the right hand, then lunge for the hueco to finish.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Morgue