This can be a tight chimney climb depending on your attack strategy. We had some success facing towards

and

away from the center rock with climbers of various sizes. You can either finish around the front or continue in and out the top.

Called "The Helmet Clamp" because of its squeeze-y nature. Wear a helmet!

Right Chimney (a.k.a The Helmet Clamp)

Jelly Roll

Burnt Muffin

Corn Muffin

Left Chimney

The Sticky Green Traverse

Located on the center rock of the three Lower Muffins, Burnt Muffin involves a big reach to the left.  Shorter people will have to be much more resourceful than their taller counterparts - as wingspan becomes a important issue.

This route will constantly annoy you with bizarre, basackwards moves and other things that hadn't occurred to further your climbing move arsenal since you were five. However, you might want to remember some of the resulting moves. This is the right bolted route on the Lower Muffins. It moves up the left side of the lowest rightside rock up to a bolted section of balance switching moves.

If you're going to lead this route, you should either stick clip the first bolt or keep a crashpad handy as the bolt is over a tough first move 10' off the ground. This move found me running off the climb on lead and getting caught by my belayer as I was running downhill 10 feet later. Avoid the temptation to start from the right, as it will probably lead you nowhere.

This is the leftmost bolted route on the Lower Muffin. To reach this climb from the main path, simply walk to The Muffins, and it will be the leftmost climb of the three bolted routes on the Lower Muffin.

This route involves a 5.10 "power" move, as the route has solid grips all the way up, it's just a matter of pulling your body along the way.

The top is a little mossy, but the important grips were (when we climbed it) uncovered.

This is a fun chimney climb with its crux at the exit towards anchor. We've had fun with several unique solutions to this exit! See what you come up with.

Stand start on a good "old" V3(?) pocket problem on the right side of the face and do the first couple "hard" moves up the V3 then instead of topping it out traverse left all the way to the moss before the tree and then pull onto the slab to finish - classic slopers and pockets!

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Muffins