After hiking past Side Effects we couldn't help to want to climb the chimney behind of the formation.  Like much of Moderate Mecca, the rock is soft and loose.  Scramble up into the interesting chimney.  There are plenty of face holds and the chimney makes the route feel very secure.  Climb up the rock face using an abundance of holds and top out on the upper tier.  We took a rack and rope just because we didn't know what we were getting our self into but ultimately didn't place any gear because the climbing is so secure.  Its easy 5th class at best.  This aint no Joe Herbst chimney!The chimney is filled with rocks.   Careful knocking stuff down.

Back Side

Side Effects

Bad Side

Baby Swiss

Feelin' Groovy

Climb the easy lower crack seam with a small overhang.  Pull the over overhang and continue treading to the top.  We climbed the 4th class gulley to the top and didn't stop at the upper tier ledge.  

This sporty route climbs a short crack and then huecos up a large detached boulder that guards the entrance to Moderate Mecca.   

  The lower crack could be protected by natural gear but contains several bolts.  I would recommend unclipping the first bolt after passing it to reduce drag.  This climb is almost a one move wonder but the rest of the climbing is so good you don't care.  Overall this climb presents a fun jaunt.

The right hand route on the wall below Chicken Gumbo, with "5.11c" scratched into a rock at the base. Climb the steep wall to a sit down rest, the pull cool moves out the roof to an awkward bulge and anchors. Some of the rock is incredibly suspect... be mindful of what you're pulling on. My friend and I are in agreement that this route's name should be "Chosstastic": fantastic if not for the choss.

The left hand route on the wall below Chicken Gumbo, with "5.11a Rotten" scratched into a rock at the base. Climb the steep wall to a great rest, then fire the roof around to the anchor. Rock quality is VERY suspect in places... test what you're pulling on.

An extra level of categorization would be helpful, as there are two tiers of climbs. Adding "Lower Tier" and "Upper Tier" would be better than having Feelin' Groovy and Baby Swiss (both lower tier) to be in between Crackers for my Soup and Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo (both upper tier).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Tier