The first part of the climb trends right under an overhang and is a bit intimidating. When you look up, you can see a few good holds and some big reaches between a few more holds that are hard to read. Long story short this part is challenging, but in my opinion not as bad as it looks. After this you get in to a groveling wide crack heading up and left. This part looked easy from the ground, and though it isn't that bad it's awkward and insecure in parts. After this, you head up to the chains as the holds dwindle and you encounter what I thought was the crux. Balancy moves hugging the wall will get you your reward.

One Size Fits All

Yer Anus

Supernova

Starship Enterprise

Red Alert

Space...Madness

Space

The Romulan Route

Yer Anus is wonderful on a summer day. hahaha.   The jokes just never get old for me.   "What did you get on today?"   "I got on Yer Anus".   "Hahahahaha". 

  Besides the jokes, the climb is good too. If done right, it can be a cruise, but it can challenge you as well.    You start up the easy corner and break right below the roof to good holds and make a trick move to a ledge. From this nice rest move right on good holds and bad feet under another roof and over in to a corner climb the corner and mantel to gain the chains.

Up on the left of the cliff is a steep gully with a clean steep wall on the right. Stick clip the first bolt (a directional would have been nice) and execute some very crimpy climbing past flakes. Hard from the get-go. 

  A great line that due to its isolated location does not get the attention it deserves.

This is a very serious lead, so make sure you are ready to keep your head together through some tough moves with ground fall potential. Great climbing down low, not as great up high but still fun (and better protection). 

  Climb a few steep moves to a stance and gear in a horizontal. Traverse left and up past a half driven pin in absolutely horrible condition. It is so rusted I bent it by hand when deciding if i should clip it. I did get a micro cam about a foot or so below it. the section by the pin is techy but not too powerful. After that relax a minute, get some bomber gear in and do the powerful finish, climbing a big flake to an interesting mantel move.  

  All in all, I'll admit this thing got my blood pumping a little on the onsight, haha.

I didn't think this route looked like too much fun, which makes me wonder why I did it in the first place, but my motives are my own. Either way, I found it to be way more fun than it looked. Cool moves (easier if you are tall, and I am) out left below the roof, to the chains.

I'll try not to go off too much but lets just say i REALLY like this route. It's amazingly entertaining and varried. By far my favorite route I've developed. Ok I'll stop now and tell you about the climb. 

  It's now the farthest right route at the crag. Stick clip the first bolt and start by climbing up and hand traversing a ledge from left to right. Get a little rest on a knee-bar and/or a jug, clip a bolt above and continue to the right. A section of interesting technical climbing with cool holds (look for the undercling) finished your traverse and drops you on a ledge for a good rest before the crux. Climb up the smooth face on micro crimps past a couple bolts until the crimps pretty much end. Here is the crux, i dynoed to the ledge above but static moves could be done (at a harder grade perhaps). This section might be harder for shorter and or less dynamic climbers Once your hands are on the ledge do a perplexing mantel move and gain the sweet finish hold to the right of the anchor. 

  This one was tough to grade so im looking for feedback if you climb it. Most of the climbing is 5.11ish but the blank crux kicks it up a notch for sure.   Sections down low are wet much of the year but it was wet when i did it and it didn't add to the difficulty. 

youtube.com/watch?v=US3vpyy…

A cool Gunks-like route that weaves its way through a few roofs. Working with the weakness in the line getting around the obstacles rather than plowing through them. 

  Well-matched next to Yer Anus (5.9), they complement each other. 

  The start is often wet, but the rest of the climbing is worth braving the wet start. So, if the rest of it looks dry, fire it, just watch your step.

Two crux overhangs guard the chains on this exciting climb. Easy climbing gets you to the first overhang where interesting beta or a well-placed dyno gains a jug and a mantle gets you to a nice ledge. The next overhang is well protected and so tricky (or down right hard). I don't know if I have the right beta yet.but work your way through the roof to a tricky and often sandy top out. 

  It's really just 2 boulder problems on top of each other, but hey we are at Rumney, is that so rare?

Collection of routes 5.9-5.14   This cliff is almost never climbed on by humans, although if you stop by some mutants might be pulling on one of the super-hard lines.    The cliff has an easier approach than it's lesser climbed bretheren. Therefore, I suggest stopping by this cliff on one of these super-busy Rumney Saturdays.   The moderates here have some very interesting moves: from horizontal dynos, to some (not fun) groveling above. even some exciting stemming through small overlaps.

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Protection

Routes in Starship Enterprise