This route is located at the base of the Lost Arrow on a large overhanging boulder.  Calderone gives this route a bomb rating,  but I thought it was kind of fun.  It is a good route to do, if it's raining or you are waiting in line for the standard route on the Arrow.

Follow edges and slopers up and right on a slightly overhanging wall.  Lower off a bolt anchor.

Forkash & Riches

Fists of Fury

Dying for Exposure

Ischemic Pain / Body Buster

Lost Arrow

Just to the right of Ichemic Pain is a striking wide crack in a corner.  Start by stemming the short, left-facing corner with a finger crack until possible to hand traverse toward the obvious, white corner--the feet here are a bit crumbly, so beware!  A short, steep section of perfect fingers leads to a shallow alcove with a stance.  Jam/layback the arching wideness past a small chockstone, then left out the roof.  Follow the crack through to easier ground on the arete; link the route into Ichemic Pain by traversing left to bolts, or figure out some way to bail--the Bingham guide suggests this line "needs an anchor," but Preserve regulations prohibit bolting without approval.

Route starts just left of the "Original Route".  Work up a slab to steeper rock and eventually join the original route on the second pitch.  Little to no pro.  I'm adding this to the database so unwitting climbers know what they are signing up for if they get on this route.  If you're looking for the Original Route, be sure to find the correct start.

Ischemic Pain:  Pain due to inadequate blood supply to an organ or part of the body - especially the heart.  The two names reflect the route equipper and the FA.

The route takes the crazy NW Arete of Lost Arrow.  Clip the first bolt and perform a really crimpy, bouldery sequence to establish on a better hold and a second clip.  Continue up run out terrain past a poorly located (ie dangerous) bolt.  This is the fourth clip which would be much better located down and left by 10-15 feet, but it can easily be back cleaned once the next clip is made.  Higher up a green or yellow Alien provides crucial pro to protect a huge run out.  A final sequence of crazy fin-pinching and liebacking leads to a thin top out.  Great route!

AKA:

Classic Route

.

Pitch 1

: Start on the north face of

Lost Arrow Spire

on a flake traverse that reaches a vertical crack with the original Lowe piton in it.  Clip it, enjoy the nostalgia, and stem or jam your way on up.  After the crack ends, clip the bolt and work through the highly pocketed face to the exciting and well protected hand traverse.  The crux seems to be the tail end of this traverse.  Attain the ledge and belay.

Pitch 2

: works left off the ledge.  Protect before you make the leftward move over the arete as there is NO protection beyond it.  It is 5.5 only.  Caveat:  If you do protect it the rope drag will kill you.  Choose your poison.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lost Arrow Spire