The start of this climb is recognizable by two large pockets in the face. Start at the center inside the Pancake House under the roof and climb up to the 1st bolt and the 1st large pocket. Veer right toward the 2nd bolt and the 2nd large pocket and then continue straight up and outside to a thin face.  Climb the thin face past 2 bolts to a ledge and an anchor with 2 chains.  The Queen Creek Guide lists this climb as a 5.9 and the newer fold-out topo lists it as a 5.8 (probably due to retro-bolting eliminating the need to protect the lower face with cams.)  However, I thought the face climb past the last 2 bolts was still pretty stiff for a 5.8.

French Toast

Devils Advocate

L'eggo my Eggo

Too Stiff To Tip

Free At Last

No Breeze

Over Easy

Cool Breeze

Sunny-Side Up

Frosted Flakes

Deviled Hands

Hash Browns

Is It?

6 bolt face (Karabin pocket guide #32). On the upper face there are two separate lines of bolts (2 bolts per line). The left line of bolts look to be older, thus the maybe the original line?

Pocketed face climbing to less than vertical scramble to the chains

Stiff moves get you to a somewhat high 1st bolt.  Continue some thin moves to the 2nd bolt, then up and out into daylight through a hole above.  Continue past 4 more bolts and much easier climbing to a 2-bolt anchor.

A stiff little thing. After 3 bolts you're still not entirely sure what this route is asking of you. The climb does not surmount the roof of the Pancake House, engendering further disillusionment. Fun nonetheless.

Thin climbing; after first four bolts it's possible to move a little right of the bolt line and stem your way to the top.

Step up and out onto the exposed ledge.  One or two exposed moves gets you to the 1st bolt.  Continue up the exposed slab past 3 more bolts to the anchors.  Killer views and exposure!

Facing Too Stiff to Tip, turn 180 degrees to observe its inverse circus mirror reflection. Deviled Hands is a 4 bolt sequence of fun, bouldery moves through the roof of the Pancake House via a chunky overhang.

Face climb to the first bolt, pass a small bulge, and then move past the 2nd bolt into a shallow dihedral.  Top out at 2 cold shut anchors.  Thin hands all the way up but great friction for your feet! 

Start at the bottom of the crack just inside the Pancake House. Chimney up through the roof and into the offwidth. I was able to place a few nuts and a .5 C4 in a pocket, but none of them were great placements until I was high enough up the crack to place the #5. A #6 C4 might protect this route well. Follow the crack to the top and rap off of the anchor for French Toast. The Upper Devil's Canyon guide calls this route a 5.0. I thought it felt like a 5.7, some of that might have been because I climbed most of the route without any confident gear placements though.

The Pancake House is a corridor and cave-like alcove with climbs inside that exit through holes above as well as some rap locations to access climbs on the outside of the Pancake House.  It's pretty much always shady, which is great in the summer, but the corridor can sometimes channel the wind on cooler winter days.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pancake House