Face/Crack --> Chimney --> Tree --> Thin Crack --> Alcove --> Corner --> Dead Tree.

Once you find the base (see photos!), the route is obvious.  Climb the crack to a short chimney that is just below a medium sized tree.   From the tree, climb up to a small alcove and take the corner on the right to a belay platform.

Base:  There is an uncleaned crack just to the right of the start.  We chose to climb and clean the left variation, but the straightest start could still be done if you bring some gardening gloves..

Decent: Walk right from the belay platform to the bolts and rap.

Give Back My Walls!

Monsters in the Bathroom

Barracudas!

The State of My Tractor

Atlantean a-Go-Go

Piano Lessons

Surfing the River (with a Boat on Each Foot)

Off to Work

What Dumb-asses!

Fantastic Coffee

Long, varied and quite fun. Head straight up the thinner crack (that gives you gear options where you want them) to the small scrub oak.

The start of "What Dumbasses!"

Climb through the steeper pod past the tree and continue on through an easing section, aiming for the notch roof. The crux is getting over the roof. A little reachy and steep, but you can slot a good finger piece or two that will ease the mind. Finish the crack straight up, or for more value, take the diagonal crack left and finish with the nice "Off to Work" finger section. (Minimize rope drag with slings---it'll be a fight if you're only using draws, and make sure you're using a 60m rope. Very much worth the effort.)

The upper section of "What Dumbasses!" showing the obvious notch/roof crux and the alternate finish.

Use the good oak tree 20' back from the top, along with a #4 in the crack for your anchor, or build your one in the finger crack just below the edge. Walking off to climber's left and down the gully can sometimes be faster than rapping.

Alex Lau following on the FA and looking for the sequence to get over the roof on the crux of "What Dumbasses."

The obvious crack that runs directly to the tree in the center of the wall.

A variation starting <10' left goes up the obvious crack, over a bulge and provides fun stemming before meeting with the main line just over half-way to the tree.

The entire climb and variation meet with Hands Off My Rifle, Indian! at the tree.  You can continue up the crack past the tree to the top.  Rap rings 20' left make for a simple descent.

The tree is less than 30 m from the ground, so a top rope can be set up.  Be kind to the tree if you decide to rap from it.

Kevin Kitano following on the face section of "Barracudas"

Take the crack just left of "Atlantean-a-Go-Go," which seams out and flares in sections aiming for the small roof before launching out on a 35' face with a horizontal crack splitting it in two spots for gear. Consider doubling up your gear before you climb the face plates & knobs. Good stuff. (And the rap station is right there, making the descent quick.)

The crack systems for "Barracudas!" and "Atlantean"

Really fun moves throughout with a few extended steeper sections on smaller gear for a mental game. Two cruxy parts: a small roof 2/3rds of the way up or the fun slot at the top.

A really good intro to Wall 2. The obvious straight-up crack gives you good moves with a couple of shelf cruxes and a flaring seam about halfway. Great fingers and edges throughout. Finish over the chockstone at the top. (Staying in the crack for the cruxes will get you the 5.7; using the face definitely brings the grade--and fun--down a bit.) The rap station is right there, making this a fun, quick lap before jumping on the more sporty "Barracudas!"

Piano Lessons is the crack starting at largeish oak tree.  This makes a good belay spot.  There are a few wider sections, but they are short.  You could also head to the face if off widthy cracks aren't your thing.

Mark Buntaine under the roof at the top of "Surfing the River."

Start behind the tree in the tapering gap and follow the wide jagged crack line up and left to a small right-facing corner.

Looking up the jagged line of "Surfing" just after the start.

Continue up as the corner switches sides then take the diagonal finger crack across and up left. Surmount the same roof feature as "Give Back My Walls" then work your way under and left of the roof near the top. The original line has the same top out as "What Dumbasses," but you can also finish straight up past the dead oak stump. Walking off to climber's left and down the gully is faster than rapping from the stations.

"Surfing" climbs that left-facing corner up and around/under the roof at the top left. A fun kind of awkward.

Start the crack with multiple pods between "Piano Lessons" and "What Dumbasses!" (between the two smaller oak trees as you head up the base of the wall).

The route starts for the left side of Wall 2 between the two oak trees on the slope.

Follow this line straight up, moving past the seams and block features. Your goal is the obvious wide (and at the moment dirty) chimney at the top. Walking off to climber's left and down the gully is faster than rapping from the stations.

Trevor Marks in full gardening mode on the FA of "It's a Disaster!" while Ches Upham gets comfy waiting for him to get his first piece in.

The first, far right long crack on Wall 2 - a great route to get acquainted with the wall. Take the crack straight up over a few lips, then decide which diagonal crack line you want to take to the oak on the ledge up left. Excellent pro throughout. Rap off the ring.)

Description

Protection

Routes in Wall 2