The delightfully long line that is on the east facing face of Glitter Box. To get there, it's just out of the "alley" where "Eyes of the World" is, and about 5-10m north along the base of the cliff. First bolt is about 30' up! It's noted as sport in Marty's book: "Climb up the vertical face past 12 bolts to a 2 shut rap. 160'. Double line rap" (though someone left a quicklink at a bolt about 25 m from the top to enable two single line raps if you trust rapping off one bolt from 1990). A fantastic classic route that he degraded from 3 stars to 2 because of loose rock. It seems to have cleaned up nicely as of this writing, and there was fresh webbing around rap rings up top. I'll bring quicklings and rap rings for my next climb of this awesome line to swap out. Bolts are runout all the way until the last 3 before the top. Small cams to 0.75 and including 00 or equivalent C3 are useful. Many placements are done while quite pumped, hence my PG-13 rating.

Damsels in Distress

Changes in Attitude

Are We Smokin The Same Stuff

Three Amigos

Can-Am Highway

Trickle and Resin

Batteries Not Included

World Vision

Splendid Arete

Tar Baby

Hammerhead

Eyes of the World

Two Bit Shuffle

Sublime Line

Ample Virginity

Damsel's Arete

Gold

Adios Larry

It's Not a Seizure It's a Dance Move

Summer Assault

Hola Larry!

All That Glitters

Route Out

Hidden Splendor

Jaws

Ojos del Diablo

Donde Esta Larry?

The crux is perhaps the first few moves off the ground or at the last bolt. Somewhat poor rock quality for the first 30 feet is protected by bolts. This climb was put in last fall.

Chimney up past 2 bolts, then step right and onto fun and interesting face past 6 more bolts to a 2 shut anchor. If you stem through the first section, the climb feels closer to 5.9

Nice, sustained route with a fun bulge at the top.  Can get a little pumpy.  The top is a great location to take photos of climbers on Three Amigos!

Starts on top of a large boulder. Six bolt face with many horizontal cracks. Traverses right after third bolt and over a small bulge between bolts 5 and 6. Good route with decent exposure and great views. Quick-clip anchor at the top.

Same first pitch as "Batteries Not Included" and so same caveat applies here -- i.e. don't bother with the chimney and get into the upper area via "Adios" or "Sublime". 

  Pitch Two: Sport with optional gear up high. 9 bolt low angle face to bulges to a ledge. Continue up a detached boulder then up the face to the top. 2 shut single line rap to the top of the gully.  

  Would add that it's probably easiest to head over to the top anchors of "Sublime Line" and descend from that.  

  A fun warm up climb for "Batteries" and while short it is also an excellent route to take pictures of anyone on "Batteries" from.

30 m north and around from the corridor from Summer Assault. East facing wall which turns into a pinnacle at the top. Start on the chunky holds to the right and climb up and left onto the face to avoid a big prickly tree. Face with horizontal slits and 4 bolts to a 2 shut rap. Sm-med pro necessary, as with all the climbs along this stretch. This route is used to get up to the Lion's Den Area.

Original description in Marty's book: "Pitch One: Climb up a 25' chimney crack to a ledge with a tree. Pitch Two: Sport. Beautiful north facing 6 bolt vertical face with two bulges and a vertical crack at the top. 2 shut rap. Somewhat runout but worth the air time. 85'." 

  Would eliminate the first pitch and either climb the first pitch of "Adios Larry" and traverse around, or do the first pitch of "Sublime Line" and do the relatively unprotected traverse in from the north.  

  The crux is a one-two move wonder and the rest of the climb feels more like a mid-10. But, the rock is stellar and it's a very fun climb overall.

The crux is likely along the narrow seam near the top of the climb.  A nice long mixed Trad climb, this route has some poor quality rock at the start that is protected with three bolts.

Gorgeous rock, arete, easy climbing, what a delight! Nice easy warm up to get you on "Hidden Splendor" and then "Changes in Attitude".

Follow featured crack up to large ledge. Finish right to end up at anchors for Ample Virginity

Climb a broken crack to the first bolt using cams or stoppers for protection.  Follow 5 bolts up the face to a chimney up to the tree.  Use cams and stoppers to set up a top rope anchor to the left of the tree and rappel off the tree when done.   

  Stay over the bolts to keep it a 5.10a - the 5.10a part is only one or two moves near a slight bulge about midway through the climb.  If you move left to the corner at the crux, the climb drops to a 5.8 or 5.9.    

Excellent rock, great length, and fun, fun, fun. Guide book suggests 11a. Climbs more like a 10b/c.

From Marty's guide: "Climb up the face past 3 bolts to a ledge. Continue up the face past 1 more bolt into a vertical crack. As the crack splits in two, follow the right crack to its end and then up the face to a 2 bolt belay on the top. 140'. Double line rap. Sm-med cams, stoppers helpful." 

  I have to add that the gear is not only helpful, it's necessary as there are no bolts above the single one just above the ledge. Also, the pro is pretty bad and it's hard to imagine what Marty meant by going "into the crack" as I did my best to avoid it as it seemed quite sketchy. Pro was mediocre at best, but fortunately the climbing is significantly easier than the 10c feeling face climb to get to the ledge.

A 2-pitch sport route in the Glitter Box area of Lower Devils.  The first pitch climbs a 5.8 face past 4 bolts to a large ledge (60').  The second pitch is a fun and well bolted 5.10a climb from the ledge past 8 bolts to bolted anchors (80'). 

  Although Sublime Line is listed as a 5.9+ in Marty Karabin's Queen Creek Guide, it's listed as a 5.10 in his foldout topo.

Climb steep face with great rock to big ledge with a 2 bolt belay

The gorgeous arete to the right of "Damsels in Distress". No idea why this wasn't set back in the day, but it's gorgeous climbing and even more fun than Damsels, which has been one of my favorite LD routes for a while. A few bulges, which I hope I protected ok.

A decent, fun - long - route with cool moves. The crux may be the roof and the bulge above the roof. Some rock of lesser quality intermixed, but still acceptable.

Start on the big ledge that you take to get to Hidden Splendor. Face to ramp with 2 bolt anchor. Bolts are widely spaced, having just a few small-med cams and stoppers will help the runout. Key hold to clear the roof-like top move is now gone (sorry) and protecting this last move is wise.

The crux is about half way up; moving past some rock or lesser quality to get established on a bulge. Fun route. Named for an incident in the ER (that Jenny and Carrie shared with me [they named it]) some time ago.

"Sporty start move. Climb up the face past 3 bolts into a short vertical crack to a face with horizontal cracks and 6 more bolts to a 2 bolt belay on the top. Double line rap." A 70 m rope will put you at the level of the 1st bolt, at which point you can easily stem and down climb. A 60 m rope is too short to enable you to swing out to the top of the adjacent buttress. 

  Fresh webbing at this writing, but it can be removed now as I've now put anchors with quick-links and biners (NOT booty, please do not remove) for easy rapping/lowering. The anchors are just to the left, midway between this climb and "Two Bit Shuffle."   

  This is another of what I think of as the classic long awesome Lower Devils routes, along with Damsels and Adios Larry. Would guess that running it out like a sport route will not appeal to most folks. "Two Bit Shuffle" just to the left of this climb is not nearly as cool a line as this one and is 10c because of the roof near the bottom and the sketchy pro.  

  The "sport start" in Marty's book makes this climb harder than the 10b rating that is apt for the rest of it. It's a technical, edgy, delicate and quite difficult set of face moves that are well into the 5.11 range. Fun, crimpy and challenging, but the first bolt is high and an unexpected fall may hurt.  

  3/27/11 - 4/2/11: Also note that the "old bolts" that Roman mentions below are all the thin SMC bolts that were recalled and are documented for failing. I did this climb again and took special care to place supplemental gear in the runout sections as a long fall would not be good on these bolts. I not put in a better anchors, but replacing the bolts is a bigger job than I was ready for.

The arete left of "Adios Larry". First pitch starts in a stemming chimney and is 5.9 climbing through great quality rock and very cool formations on the arete. About 100 feet gets you to a nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Second pitch steps up from the ledge and gets right into the crux that is well protected with 3 bolts. Rock quality looks poor, but is surprisingly good and DAS cleaned it up well. Clear the crux and easier climbing leads to the top of the formation. 2 bolts on top can be used to anchor, but descent from the rap chains that we placed above "Donde Esta Larry?", to the right of "Adios Larry".

Top Rope the west face of the Glitter Box (5.9) using the rappel chains below the base of Three Amigos or climb the off width crack/chimney on the right (5.7) to the top. 

The climb is consistent the entire way up.  There are the options for some mantel moves, crimping and cam placement in horizontal cracks between bolts. 

  Although Hidden Splendor is listed as a 5.8 in Karabin's Rock Jock's Guide to Queen Creek Canyon, I think that some (lots?) of holds have broken off - at least it looks that way and compared to other 5.8 climbs in the area like Three Amigos and Smokin' The Toad, this climb seemed a lot harder.   

  It's a great hidden location in Lower Devils with an interesting approach. 

Ever wonder why Hammerhead just ended at the tree and look up into the chimney and wonder where it went? Well, it's an easy chimney with great rock that protects well (if you need to) and it pops you out right near a nice hand crack that leads to the top of the formation that has "Hammerhead" and "Ojos del Diablo" on the S face, "Damsels in Distress" on the east face, "Hidden Splendor" and "Changes in Attitude" on the north face and now new routes as well.

The crux is almost mid-height; difficult and thin climbing and clipping at the crux.  At least you're way off the ground.

Starts on the right side of the "Adios Larry" ledge and easier climbing leads through the first 4 bolts. First two are relatively close together and then significantly easier climbing gets to the steepening sections. A 5.8-5.9 leader could always climb the first section and step onto the face of "Adios Larry" to the mid point anchors. Great quality rock down low and then a section that is not as good, but the holds are there.  

  There are 3 steep, bulging cruxes and I would really like feedback from anyone who on sights these regarding thoughts on the grade. I developed this using a Soloist belay device on top rope with drill and gear on the back up rope, so climbed each section on a solo top rope before bolting. Because of this, I did not "on sight" the route when sending it and was comfortable through the cruxes. It'd be good to get feedback though. Remember to pull down and not out on this LD rock!

This area includes the east-facing formations found in Devils Canyon proper and routes found along the left, past the road area, when hiking toward Devil's Canyon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Glitter Box Area