Guillotine is an amazing crack and face line protected with natural gear. Climb a right-leaning crack to the top of a short pillar. Continue up the crack to the base of the large roof. The crux climbs over and out this roof to the right with sidepulls and bad feet. A small cam protects the crux. Continue on varied 5.10 terrain with just enough gear to get you to the anchor. A TR inspection is suggested.

Guillotine

Unnamed 2

Green Dragon

The Golden Shower

Path of Least Resistance

Red Dragon

Tech Savvy

Unnamed

Short Stack

Golden Arete

Keyhole Cousins

Iron Maiden

The first section is about 12b to the first short roof. Long pulls on solid micro-edges lead to that first short roof and a shitty rest. A big move/toss up and right starts the crux and leads straight into a series of techy sidepulls and high feet to a rest before the last little roof. It's about 11b to the top from here, but it is definitely no gimme.

Use

Keyhole Cousins'

anchor to toprope this route. Its a fun 5.9- tech slab to a ledge, then a sudden 5.11++ crux, then the finish of

KC

.

Start up a short bulge to gain the long edge covered face. Continue up the face to the base of the large roof. Move left to a seepy sidepull before moving back right through the crux and up the rest of the glorious headwall. A 70m rope is mandatory.

Climb the crack to a pedestal then the arete to the chains. If you miss a crucial hold at the top, it will feel harder. If this was at The Palace, it would be one of the most popular climbs there. It has great photo ops!

This is located on the North face of the North Tower and is easily seen on the approach trail. This short, left-facing corner was the original approach route to the top of this tower. Beware of loose blocks near the top of the pitch.

This has techy face climbing from the moment you step off the ground all the way to the anchors. It keeps your attention!

This was established ground up on trad gear. Several variations were TRed after the anchor was installed, the best being the leftish arete at about 5.7. Bring a standard rack to 1".

This short route tackles an imposing, short roof and a steep corner. Getting around the lip of the roof is definitely the crux.

Gain a ledge, and move left to the first bolt. Move up a short, left-facing corner/flake until you can move back left. From here, follow a series of edges and overlaps to some mantels before the chains.

Start up twin parallel cracks. At small overhang, transition right onto face near arete. Pull 5.10 moves past two close bolts. Move right delicately, plug bomber cam(s), then pull final 5.9+ move to the top. A 70m rope is mandatory.

Begin with a techy slab traverse out of the right-facing corner. Continue up the arete/face to the base of the big roof. Do a cruxy sequence up and right out the roof to stance. Pull the balancy crux above the roof, and enjoy fantastic climbing right on the arete to the anchor. A 70m rope is mandatory.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bristlecone Castle