A beautiful, long route with a short, friendly crux that's well protected. Endurance is not the game on this one, despite its length, due to the many large ledges. Some route finding skills can be good at times.

Weed Eater

Enganche

Continental

Machete

Baccaus Goes Climbing

Dog Wars

Mini Me

Some Humans Ain't Human

Dingo the Gringo

Fear or Common Sense

Virgin Bolter Tag Team

Velveteen

Kokopeli's Dream

Jacob's Ladder

Suppress the Rage

Velvet Revolution

Begin with a sustained pocketed face up about 40 feet to an excellent rest. Shake out and study the crux right above you, and when you're ready, pull the final roof to a large ledge with the anchors.

Major style points if you actually mantle the last move instead of flopping onto your stomach.

Hop up to first hold, follow a finger crack in a left-facing dihedral to a first small roof and continue up to a second wider roof. Plug in some big cams and move out and then up.

This is the compelling pocket line featuring the map of Africa, just as you reach the wall.  Listed as a TR in the RRG3 guide, but fully bolted and ready to go.

3rd clip (near Libya) is hard -- good feet and an alert belayer here.  5th clip is scary but very safe.  I went quite a ways R at that point, then traversed back in for the clip.

As of 11/10/11, the route was pretty scruffy above the 4th bolt.  If it were cleaned up a bit, I'd give it 3 stars instead of 2.

Grip, Grab, and Grovel your way up the first few bolts, before mantling up to a slabby face. Continue on the easy terrain continue up the face above on surprisingly good black colored rock to a ledge and a mythical blackberry bush where one can enjoy the fruit of their labor.

Scamper up on to the starting block and throw in your biggest piece as high as you can reach. Step off the block in to a couple chimney moves and jam or layback the rest of the short fist crack.

Overhanging finger and hand crack with a few bolts where there is no crack.

Located to the right of Continental. Slightly overhanging somewhat flaring finger to handcrack. Bouldery start. Follow until crack stops then climb past chicken heads to anchors. somewhat sandbagged, rrg.com consensus rating between 5.10b/c.

Much better than its neighbor Gringo.  Start near the same ledge as Gringo on the far right side of the wall.  A steep section leads a good rest and the first bolt.  Make the big difficult move off the first bolt.  Followed by a few more balancy technical moves.  Trend back left slightly to the anchors.

This is a one-move wonder.  The crux is at the first bolt.  A stick clip is highly recommended due to the belay from a ledge and the move to get to the bolt.

Start up a short overhang to a flared crack.  Make a difficult move to get established in the crack.  Then enjoy very easy slabbing to the top.

Start on the ledge and climb up the steep arete with fun moves to a two bolt anchor.

Begin by pulling past the obvious roof. Rock and route quality drop after these opening moves.

Ascend the obvious chimney between the left side of the pinnacle and the main wall. Climb up through the cave and spiral around to a ledge near the top at the right side of the pinnacle. Fun.

Crux is getting off the ground. A nice pitch on a face with holds on the arete to the left.

Pockety face with good clips vearing left to the anchors. Great for a first time leader

Super fun route. Hard moves up the overhanging start then it gets hard up high.

Super steep route that continues out of the rock house above the pinnacle.  Fun and exposed with a few powerful moves.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sunnyside