This is the first sport climb to the right of Crack of Doom.  This is a tough send at 5.11b.  I saw a guy warm up on Stategic Defense and onsight Crack of Doom,  but he got shut down on this climb.  Go figure...

It is a little runout at the top.

Siesta

Crack of Doom

Reach for the Sky

Chimney

Brown Flake

Book of Dissent

Skyline

Easiest Route

Morning Glory

Veal Cage

Power Tools

Fall Line

Strategic Defense

AKA:

Crack of Dung

.

This is a worthwhile pitch.  I gave it a low grade because of the guano and because the neighboring climbs are so much better.

Start in the next crack system right of

Crack of Doom

, below a thin crack in a corner/groove which becomes a chimney.

To start either traverse in from the left (easier) or go straight up to access the crack, the first 20' of which are the surprisingly hard crux.  Above that, continue with chimneying.  After the crack ends, diagonal left for the COD anchors.  Note: there is a rap anchor after about 10M; consider yourself a lowly piker if you employ this.

This is "the" 5.11 crack climb at the City. It is just to the right of Power Tools.

The start is protected by a fixed pin, which can be stick clipped. A fixed nut has remained in place about 2 feet above the pin for the last couple years. These 2 pieces protect the opening crux moves very well.

Start on the shelf to the left and traverse into the crack. Grab the correct holds and these moves are only 5.11a/b. Work the face on the right and get established in the thin finger crack. Thin crack and stem moves will lead you to a rest jam at the roof.

The second crux is moving into the hand crack above the small roof. (#3.5 Camalot and poor feet) A continuous slightly overhanging hand crack leads to a 2 bolt anchor.

Left of Skyline is a nice face climb that culminates below the 5.12+ Veal Cage.  It consists of thin edging up a nice face with a couple of reachy moves.  The injury potential is getting to the first bolt as it is not easy climbing to the first bolt, so have a spotter or three.  The nice left traverse mixes up the styles nicely on this climb.  Do it while waiting for one of the other Morning Glory routes.

If this had a better name, it would get more traffic!  This is a fun, well protected pitch between Strategic Defense and Crack of Doom.  Good crack climbing, stemming, and some body english will see you through two chimneys and a memorable roof.  Good clean fun. If you've come to climb Skyline and it is busy - jump on this worthy alternative.

This route begins just to the left of Strategic Defense 5.11c.  The opening moves follow a left facing dihedral and are tough to stop and place gear.

A rest is had before a 1 inch crack, follow this crack and traverse to the left.  Work out some thin gear in the cracks and setup for the traverse back to the right.

This is where the fun begins.  Lieback the flake, and work hard to protect yourself.  The gear can be good, but it is pumpy to place.  Race to the ledge before your hands open up on their own.  Traverse to the right and rap on the S.D. anchors.

On the NW side, just left of the bolted line that comes off the ledge is this relatively easy ascent path to the top.  It follows a crack/flake system whick ends at a difficult to attain (and protect) ledge move.  Move right on the ledge and face climb to get to the leftward traversing overhead crack that becomes another flake/crack system.  After a while exit this crack and finish on the highly features face with sparse but adequate protection.

There are two starts to this route. Either begin as for Crack of Dung but veer right around the corner OR start 15 feet down to the right and climb the water gulley with no pro.  The latter has the advantage of reducing rope drag.

Head up to the chimney to the fixed tat. Continue up to a ledge and veer right of the left facing crack (probably 5.7-5.8). You'll meet a wall to the left with a large block on top.  It's probably 5.7 if you go straight up or you can keep it 5.5 by going around back of this block the right.  Build an anchor.

Scramble up and left to the anchors on top of Skyline.

Three pitch's 10a,10d,10b The best pitch and the crux are the 2nd. The third pitch does not follow the natural line but rather goes straight up after pulling a very exposed move onto the large flake.

I thought I'd include this route for nostalgia (since I had a mini-epic on it years ago).  Pull the large overlap/roof above the anchors of "Reach for the Sky" (a route which is an interesting feat in-and-of itself).  Reportedly harder than the original rating of 5.11c now that "the" jug has broken off (don't know who could've done that).  I bet this route seldom get done.  I know it didn't even when it was 5.11c.

This technical crimping testpiece was the first route at the City to be established on rappel with a power drill. The crux slaps you right at the first bolt and continues until the second bolt. (Have holds broken since the FA?) These opening moves climb like a powerful, sharp, crimpy V6 boulder problem. Above the crux is loads more delicate, cryptic,and crimpy climbing with another 11+ face climbing crux with fewer bolts than you might prefer. The climb is great, and the features it ascends are eye catching- you will rejoice upon solving the lower crux and leaving those painful crimps behind! As Bingham says "One of the best technical crimp challenges around."

This is the most popular sport climb on the Morning Glory Spire.  Start just right of Syline 5.8.  If you straighten out the line, it is 5.10c.  If you zig and zag on the good holds, it is only 5.10a.

Follow a right facing corner, until you hit a slab.  The slab is a little runout.  Fun face climbing is had above.  Head right to ease the grade.  Finish on a small bulge right before the anchors.

In the guidebook, Dave Bingham asks, "the best face climb in the City?"... find out for yourself! A slabby crux down low & a pumpy one up higher with an amazing variety of movement in a truly spectacular location.

Description

Protection

Routes in Morning Glory Spire