Pull the lip on thin edges. Continue up excellent stone on easier, but sustained terrain.

Young Frankenstein

Fido

Spot

Dogleg

Electric Avenue

Frau Bluka

Same Place Different Girlfriend

Pull the bouldery roof on thin crimps. Fun but much easier climbing above.

Tricky start with sustained action throughout.

Spot climbs an immaculate shield of red patina on perfect crimps (read: small and sharp) to a heartbreaking finish with barely any holds. Lots of climbing packed in the short 60' of this excellent route, felt hard for 11a.

Start by scampering up a ramp that quickly turns vertical and devious. A small cam can ease your mind as you transition onto the face, clip the 1st bolt and pull a burly crux on patina edges to establish on a ledge. Clip the 2nd bolt and launch up a parallel set of vertical edges that just don't want to feel very good. Another bolt and a puzzling transition onto the now blank face to the left brings you to the dreaded dyno. Either launch up and immediately plummet down (gravity is a bitch) or carefully milk sharp edges and high feet to get to decent crimps and a bolt. Gather yourself and figure out the puzzling crux finish: reach into a small roof way up and left or invent a hold straight up and make something happen. Either way, you might pitch 6" from the chains...

On paper this route is a good warm-up for the crag. In practice however it might keep you busy for an hour and leave you bloody and pumped.

Scramble up dirty ledges to the base of a fat bulge split by a hand crack. Place gear, formulate a plan and commence the battle. The jams are slightly flaring and the lack of feet will leave you puzzled. Don't despair, keep an eye on the face for edges and you'll

eventually

get a foot established in the crack. From there it's smooth sailing past a block to a lower angle lichen-covered section then a left dogleg with interesting sculpted features. Follow the crack through a short vertical section and build and anchor.

Expect some amount of frustration as the rating seems to be an average of the long second section of the route (5.7ish) and the very short first few moves (5.harder)... Being good at crack climbing will help.

This route climbs an obtuse corner up the awesome orange face of E-Ave.  Start to the left of the corner and boulder through the overhang past a pin to get establlished on the face.  Continue up on thin moves and patina edges - very exciting!  There's a bolt at about 60 feet, then continue up in the scoop until the top of the rock is reached.  I awkwardly traversed/downclimbed to the anchors that are for the bolted routes on the face, I'm not sure this is the best way to descend, post up if anyone knows otherwise.

A thin, technical face on good stone marks the crux of this route after the first overlap. Progressively easier climbing to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Electric Avenue