This route follows a slightly right leaning crack and face. First pitch is best. The whole route to the top is 5.10d.

The route goes to the top of the rock, but people usually only do the first pitch, then rappel.

P1 5.10b Thin bouldery start to perfect locks, when the crack runs out go right for the classic route or left past 3 bolts for the new Gripinator multipitch. Classic finish- climb far right at the top past 5.7 run out knobs or straight over the 5.9 direct finish past one bolt to the anchors. Look for the old anchors in the bush or new anchors on the ledge 20' right to continue the climb. P2 5.10d From the ledge continue right around the block to a thin steep crack, past 2 fixed pins to the sloping huge ledge. P3 4”gear. 5.10b from the corner go up and right on an airy hand traverse to a perfect corner system, rings at the top 3 raps on a single 60m to the ground. Tie knots, its close to the ends!

True Grip

I sat on a sharpie

Go Juice

The Ancient Route

Deliverance

Wipe Out

Natural High

The Slot

Pulp Gription

Shut Yer Pie Hole

Red Caboose

Chocolate Mousse

Herberts Crack

Gripinator

Desiderata

Poly Grip

Octo-Pie

Project

Hands Masseuse

New Blood

Starting under the giant roof system go left up blocks to the crack, many ways to get here from the top of the 1st pitch of True Grip. Strenuous

Important Description Please Read

This is a two pitch climb, beginning with bolted anchor already half way up the wall, sitting at the mouth of the cave.  Look right to find first anchor. At this anchor, look up to the right and the first bolt will be on inner face of the arete. The crux is at the very beginning. Climb the face, over the top of the arete follow bolts to second anchor on ledge. Start of second pitch is belayed from inside of gully to the right. Look for the bolts to the right of the crack below tree.

From the anchor in the corner step up and left to start the wide 4-5”crack to another set of anchors or move left to link up with Chocolate Mousse. 2 raps with a 60m get you to the base

This crack has likely been climbed in the past but is not in any guide books and required some gardening to make it go, it is very clean now and a fun borderline OW.

This is a rarely climbed corner just above and between the the top of the anchors of Gripinator and Pulp Gription. Find a 4th class way up the blocks behind the bushes to the big right facing corner system and climb to the top.

This climb start by a large pine tree on the far right of The Pie Shop.

Climb unprotected face, then past two bolts. 5.11, then hard 5.10 climbing leads to a difficult finger crack. Follow this to the top.

From the huge ledge start up the last pitch of True Grip and then traverse left under the improbable looking roof.

Challenging crack start climbs behind a solid flake close to the ground and safe, first pitch climbs to terrace, easily crossed 3rd class, then pitch two presents two rewarding cracks- wide hands and a squeeze chimney/ lieback. Final station at the boulders up top, careful with the friable rock.

(From the top of P1 of True Grip or Octo-Pie) Climb left around the block to a steep corner/mantle past 2 bolts then and onto thin well bolted face.

From the top of Chocolate Mousse or Gripinator 3rd class down scramble to the start or from the very top rap in. (Climb Crepes to the top and set up a TR?) Step up and traverse left across thin flakes to amazing knobs to the top of the entire Pie Shop, either walk off or rap back to the top of Chocolate Mousse/Gripinator

Directly up from the anchors at (C,D,J,K,L) is an undercling/LB that leans left and turns into a knobby face, follow this to the chains. 2 raps on a 60m to the ground

This is a new second pitch from the top of Hands Masseuse with several ways to get there. Including 5.8 OW on Hands Masseuse or the new Go Juice 5.9

Follow the bolts to the top with huge knobs and step across a few gaps. (2 raps with a 70m or 3 with a 60m- tie knots- it’s close!)

Suggest starting at True Grip then traverse left into the corner past 3 bolts. P2 climb the isthmus of rock to a crimpy face to a wild flake that takes 2” gear, continue up the bolt line on the fantastic exposed arete to the top. The new classic we hope! (2 raps with a 70m or 3 with a 60m- tie knots- it’s close!) Can be done in 2 or 3 pitches. You'll lose sight of the leader no matter what.

Fun slab/face climbing past a bolt and then into a thin crack with some cool finger jams.

Climb the middle crack, directly to the chimney of

Hands Masseuse

.

Follow that to the top.

Follow the bolts, to the right of

True Grip

. Rappel off.

Same start as the "The Slot" in the akward left facing corner until you reach a comfortable ledge. Continue meandering up and right for The Slot or traverse left across delicate face moves past 2 bolts and a thin crack ~0.5” to fun knobby sport climbing to the big ledge.

A1 Bolt Ladder or 5.13+

This project is open to whomever can climb it.  Get to the top of 2nd pitch of True Grip or Pulp Gription and climb the super steep roof over the lip to the anchors.

Rating is just a guess right now.

Good route, but grainy. I don't know what the photo's all about.

Down and to the right of Pie Face are three cracks. These are to the left of

True Grip

.

Climb the right-hand crack, a bolt protects face moves to a chimney/offwidth. Follow this to a belay. Most folks rap from here, or there is an interesting down climb off the back side.

The seldom done second pitch, goes up and right to a chimney. Climb this until it is possible to move left onto a face, which is followed to the top.

Start several feet left of

True Grip

.

Thin corn flakes past 4 bolts to the corner, easier but run out after the 4th bolt. Bolts replaced 2018

Description

Protection

Routes in Main Wall (Right)