Crack to face. Cruxes around the 6th and 10th bolt

Crack of Dawn

Boom Chakalaka

Doowutchyalike

Split Personality

Please Baby, Baby, Baby, Please

Pick Pocket

Blasphemy

Broski/Linaweaver

Uncle Reach

Faith No  More

Chameleon

Biochemically Compacted Sexual Affection (aka, "Sex")

Honky Special Variation

Makealove

[Redacted]

One Gun Salute

Sex Packets

face, crack and seam climbing. Crux at 6th bolt.

Crux is getting to first bolt. This route shares the first six bolts with chameleon. Then take the black hangers and head up and right where it’s obvious that it’s easier climbing. Stick clip recommended

Establish a belay at the base of the route using the 1st bolt as an anchor. Big reaches to positive holds lead mid height to a harder move left where a pump starts. Continue up through a difficult  crux and manage what you have left past a couple of more bolts and a Mussy lower off. Really nice rock but a showstopper crux that both my partner and I thought was harder than 11d.

Bouldery start in a shallow dihedral leads to fun face climbing, ending on a small ledge.

The first sport route in the gorge.  Ground up bolted by John Bachar in the late 80's.  This route is easily identified but its copious amounts of chalk.  Start off of the boulder and crank hard starting moves up the pocketed face.  Halfway up move a little left to gain a good ledge. From the ledge either bust out left to a juggy flake system or continue up and right and then back left on pockets (harder but not as good).  The pockets on this climb are amazing.

Cruxes at left leaning section 1st half (tippy and awkward) and below the transition from crack to flake near the top. Remarkable finger locks and holds near the top.

What if Steck/Salathe, Chouinard/Herbert, and Hillary/Norgay had said, 'Why bother?"

Thankfully, Broski/Linaweaver didn't either.

Fun moves, and some thoughtful meandering.

Last third chossy.

Direct finish harder than 10b IMO. Indirect finish (to the right), easier than 10b.

Starting to the left of Blasphemy 5.9, "seam to face, finish up a right-slanting flake."

Easy 11- climbing to a v4-5 crux, pumpy moves to the last bolt. Harder if you're short.

Great technical edging. Kinda climbs like less than vert granite

This very aesthetic and potentially pumpy route follows the very blunt arete/face to the left of "Sex Packets" (Not to be confused with the deceiving blunt arete immediately adjacent to the 5.9 "Blasphemy")  No stand-out cruxes, but it feels long and sustained, not to mention exposed. This route will seem less pumpy if you have good technique. Considering the high quality of this route, it seems under-traveled.

Clip the first 4 bolts of Uncle Reach, then traverse left and finish up Please Baby, Baby, Baby, Please.

Start in the blocky and loose chimney to the right of Blasphemy. Climb overhanging face on slopey pockets. Pumpy and engaging.

Arete climb where you gain instant exposure. Follow the arete to the anchors. Climb is on the Staging Tower. The approach can be slippery. A fall from here wouldn't make your day.

Face climbing along a crack. Cruxes above bolts 1 & 5.

Cool pockets down low lead to a technical, thin bulge (the crux). Excellent moves throughout.

Rumor has that this climb was on the Bachar solo circuit. Something to think about.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Holy Trinity