Start below a big ramp and move up over easy holds.  From the ramp, continue up to a decent ledge to clip the 4th bolt.  Getting from here to the next bolt is the crux - some delicate moves on small, sloping holds with very little for the feet.  Once at the 5th bolt, the holds are big and its a much easier cruise to the anchor, although getting into position for the anchor is a little tricky.  The crux can be avoided by moving left into the corner and back to the right to clip that 5th bolt.  This makes the climb about 5.8.  Either way this is a fun route.  Rappel to descend.

Knot Too Many Roaches

Richter Scale

Purple Reign

Poncho and the Three Perverts

Shelfish

Dillinger

Butch Cassidy

Ma Barker

Soprano

Unknown Offwidth Trad Route

Purple Packer Smacker

Another Bolted Crack

Scramblin' Fran

Jesse James

Baby Face Nelson

New Comer (aka New Corner)

R.A.M.M.

Ragnar

Pretty Boy Floyd

This route starts near a corner.  Head up the black rock on the right side of the corner, on easy holds, to a crack system in the corner.  Work the crack and the blocky corner to a ledge.  Clip the next bolt and fire up the headwall to the anchor ledge.  If there is a crux to this climb, that was it, but to me it felt fairly consistent throughout.  Rappel to descend.

Above the curve in the BLM road on the north side of the bank,  left of a major gully on a prow of rock is this nice climb.  It is much to the left of

Dave Dangle

and

Surreal Estate

Wall, but it can be approached by walking along the cliffs from that approach.  This line ascends just left of a left-facing corner, up over a small roof/overlap and to the face above.  It has surprising clean rock and nice moves.

Use the block on the left and nice face on the right to C1 and a big stance on top of the block. Move up to the smallish dihedral past C2, and climb the fun, steeper, easy face on nice, big holds with great feet past three clips to the chained anchors.

Start up using the edge of a crack on the left and clipping bolts on the face up to a roof. Clip a bolt right at the roof and pass it. Above the roof, move slightly right and make fun moves past a cool flake to the anchors. The flake sounds pretty hollow but is solid (I think?)

Start up using the face on the right and holds on the detached, 8-foot pillar to the left to gain a good stance to clip the high first bolt. Follow more bolts making fun face moves on sharp rock. The apparent crux comes about half way up when moving up the face from a good ledge in a shallow dihedral. I tried not to use the right wall of the dihedral to "keep it real" but ended up putting a foot out there. Easier climbing leads to the anchors just above a small roof.

Climb an awkward start in a flake on some sharp rock to C1. Continue with slabby climbing past C2 and an easy dusty/section to C3. Finish with vertical climbing then the crux for 5 clips to the anchors.

This is another nice moderate that starts on a slab/face.  Then gain the arete to the anchors just below the bonsai tree.

You get easy climbing with good feet and techy fingers to C1, then you get some reachy pockets to clip C2. At C2, move up and right for really good pockets right of C3. A fingery side pulley section gets you to C4. A cruxy section from to C5 to C7 lands you at a great rest under the upper bulge. Pull the crux bulge on the left with thinker/sharp/steep holds and tricky feet to vertical, cruxy moves to the anchors.

A technical slab face gets you started up into a finger crack that quickly widens to an offwidth below a roof. Typical face holds help ease the pain, but if you are disciplined enough, then you can wedge yourself in and grunt your way up.

Bob Robertson's pamphlet calls it a wild toprope, but I led it on gear from #1 - #6.

If any one knows the FA or the proper name, then I would be happy to add it here.

Climb the corner with jams and a few faces holds out right for 2 clips to a stance up and out left.  Follow the blond face for 2 clips up under the small roof. Go right past 1 clip to the anchors.

Start up the steep slab which eases up after the second bolt, then follow the crack through two overhanging bulges using hand/fist jams and some awkward feet (crux). The anchor is a few feet left of the crack after an easy face move or two.

Watch out for rodent droppings on the ledge above the second bulge. The inside of the crack is pretty abrasive; consider taping up.

Climb a short, vertical face to a smallish bulge to anchors under the lip. Find fun, easy climbing in this popular section.

Climb big holds with great feet past C1 to C2. Climb up to C3 and move left to the short, cruxy, vertical face past two clips to a spacious rest. Gain the sweet short corner with big holds everywhere for 4 clips and a reachy C9. Once past C9, climb easy rock to the chained anchors.

Start up decent rock below and a bit right of the high first bolt. Some nice edges get you off the ground to some smaller but positive edges before reaching a couple of good pockets to clip the first bolt.  Juggier climbing leads past a few more bolts to a big ledge below the steep finish.  Rest up and continue past two more closely-spaced bolts through some dubious rock to the bolted anchor.

In Bob DAntonios new guidebook for Shelf, this climb is listed as New Corner.  Start on the rough dark brown rock and work your way up to a double crack system.  At this point, the wall goes a little negative, but the feet are good and there are great jams and locks to supplement the face holds.  Finish on a large flat ledge to the right of the crack system, where the right crack ends.  I list this route here as .10a since that is the rating in Bobs guide.  I felt the climb is easier than

Dillinger

; Id say 5.9.  Rappel to descend.

Aesthetically, it can't be beat!  This fantastic climb begins on a slight slab which quickly changes to vertical, then it moves into a juggy overhang and a crimpy finish to the anchors.  It is 5.10c, except for the pump factor which might take it to .10d.  If you know who has FA, let me know!

Use the left face and the block on the right past C1 to a big stance at C2. Move straight up on big in-cuts to C3 and bigger holds through the easy face. Climb past C5 at the upper bulge to the anchors.

Scramble up the low angle slab to begin.

Use the right hand crack/block with some left hand face holds to get past clip 1 to a stance.  Follow the crack/face straight up through this well protected 3 clip section to another stance. The crux starts here with good but a bit harder climbing with good feet.  Follow the continuing crack for 3 clips to another good stance. Go through the last two clips with interesting moves to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 02. Bank Rob