One of the better routes at the South Wall, although it doesn't seem to get much traffic and may be hard to read. The first bolt is fairly high, with the crux of the route passing the first bolt, so a stick clip is highly advised. Another thin crux comes a few bolts later, then sustained and engaging 5.10 climbing to the anchors.

Drill Drop

Live Wire

Smoke Signal

May Cause Drowsiness

May Cause Dizziness

Donkey Show

Glass Eye

Festus

Pain Killer

This is the second from the right route in the distinct cave section of the South Wall, and certainly seemed like a one move wonder climb to me.  Until I fell on the hard face climbing that's part of ? (.10d) next to it on the shared bolts leading to the top anchor.  The middle section of this route is simple, and taking a rest is advisable.

The crux of the route is undoubtedly around the first bolt, and stick clipping this bolt is a good idea.  Once over the first roof, climbing is simple, until the last six bolts which are shared with ? (.10d), where the overhanging crimpy face climbing never seems to let up.

This route sits third from the right side of the South Wall, and heads up a face into a distinct roof that seems to groove into a crack, but actually doesn't.

Climb up interesting and reasonably rough face climbing to a roof crux at the fourth bolt.  Continue on another bolt, and join up with Festus (5.10a) for the last two bolts and top anchor.  The final bolt section of the route is deceptive and confusing, but not that hard.

Longer route, blocky start leads to some jug hauling with a thin crux.

Donkey Show is the Right-most climb on the south wall of Big Chief.  It starts on blocky overhung basalt, moves through a roof via cleaner basalt, then finishes on overhung well-featured basalt.

Glass Eye is the second climb from the right on the south wall of Big Chief.  It is quite similiar to its neighbor, Donkey Show except that the start is more difficult (and often traversed into from the left) and the roof is pulled very differently. Just like Donkey Show, it starts on overhung, blocky basalt, moves to cleaner basalt under the roof, then after a small ledge, finishes on overhung well-featured basalt.

I found the top part of Glass Eye to be more fun than its neighbor.

A very sustained 10a (with the exception of a long runout on low 5th class terrain before the final two bolts), Festus grabs your attention with many cool moves and various techniques required as soon as you clip the first bolt.

Very short people may find the crux to be moving off the second bolt into the right-facing dihedral (very reachy for those at the lower end of 5'). For me, the crux was the steep and slightly runout ground between bolts 3 to 4, a mini-traverse that thankfully offers great hand jams to mitigate the building pump. (It would be possible to throw in a cam here.)

A final 10a crux occurs at the last bolt before the anchors as well. I felt there were several sections on this route where falling would have been an unpleasant experience, but this is one of the better routes I have done at Big Chief.

8 bolts, start left of the boulder at the base.  Climb through an overhanging blocky section to face, then traverse left under a roof on jugs to a good rest ledge.  Finish up a crimpy, thin face to mussy hooks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Wall