The Sky is Falling is a nice route with a little bit of all types of climbing. The first 10-15 feet is small crimpers. Then it moves to some really nice, easy jugs, over past the ledge onto the flake. Then there is a nice balance move to the top. The crux is probably the balance move. It's a pretty simple yet fun route.

The Sky is Falling

Sweaty Betty

Wishbone Crack

Peckerwood

Pebble Beach

Korbomite Maneuver

Dystocia

Patrick Hedgeclipper

Heavy Duty Judy

[Redacted]

Radiation Fear

Entry Level

Black Brow

First Dibs

This is a steep route up the black water streak. A few pumpy moves to get going, then ascend the slightly overhanging section up to a bomber pocket-sidepull.  Now move through the vertical crux up the thin face to a small ledge.

Sweaty Betty has a stiff start for shorter climbers. Grab the first pocket, and run up the great holds. Clip the last bolt on

Dystocia

as the hanger on the last bolt of Sweaty Betty is missing.

Climb up the large flake/crack to the right, clipping the first 2 bolts.  Move on good holds through a few clips to gain the extremely large ledge that offers a no hands rest.  Getting off the ledge can be a bit tricky, but a pebble for the left hand will unlock the sequence.  The hardest moves are climbing up and right of the last bolt to the anchors.  A fall here could land you on the ledge.

I don't know the name of this route or who did the FA.  If you know, please let me know.  I'm posting this route in the hopes that someone will be able to provide more information.

Start on the vertical crack left of bolt line. Layback the crack, clip the first bolt, then throw up to huge hueco. It has a ledge topout then an easy finish.

Can you say thin start? Right of the leaning crack is a black streak with a very thin pocket start (5.11d). Ultra-technical feet and trust in the little nothings for the hands will gain a casual ledge at 25 feet. Cop a chill. The final section uses the big flake which will toss you out to some very thin pebble pinching just below the anchor. Pebble Beach would pick up another star if it were not for the break in continuity at mid height. Good addition.

Korbomite Maneuver is arguably the best line on the wall. Thin opening moves past a seam to very shallow pockets will gain a slipery cobble and the first 5.12 sequence. Paste the feet on a couple of polished, shallow cobbles. This is a really killer sequence here and worth the stars for the bouldery start all by itself. Gain the ledge and a rest below the roof/arete system above via a big move that is a tad run out. In principle, the roof can be done in two ways and both are 5.12: using the arete and a reach around it is a bit easier than staying strictly on the face which has a pair of very thin, sharp edges. Three stars for the combined cruxes, good stone, and rational protection. This is way too cool, just jump on it.

Climb a stiff start to better holds. This is a fun climb.

This route is found on the next wall to the right from the

Beta Slave

area.  Follow the trail along the base of the cliff.  You will pass one line (

Entry Level

5.8) with logs at the base.  The next route right is Heavy Duty Judy.  Crux is near second bolt.  This route is a good warm-up or a good 10 lead.  It's not too hard for the grade, and there are only a couple of hard moves.

Start 10 feet left of the large, black, water streak. Move up on some pockets to a small ledge.  The crux is moving up and left to the next small ledge via a thin flake. It has delicate moves, a tricky sequence, and inobvious holds.

Radiation Fear is a three clip wonder to the right of

Heavy Duty Judy

, and has an interesting enough sequence to be worth jumping on. Looks simple from the ground, but don't be fooled. A tricky sequence to thin pockets gains a big reach around the bulge just below the anchor. It's short, right at hand, well protected, and worth the burn. Watch out for rattlesnakes that patrol the base!!

This is a good beginner/warmup route. Start on the next section of wall S. of

Beta Slave

on a black water streak not as prominent as

Pat Hedgeclipper

. Move up on good holds all the way to the anchors.

Start directly under the arch of the "brow". Open pockets create an easy start. This climb has you moving left, going right leads to the another climb.

Once you transition left, you hit the crux and the few tough moves. There's a left hand finger pocket on the face of the rock above the brow. There's a undercling in top arch of the brow. These will let you set your feet and get to the "problem".

It's a cruxy...long...reach from the finger pocket to the U-shaped "ledge" above the brow. 6-footers should be able to reach the lichen covered 2 finger flake in the middle of the "U". Those of shorter stature, this is a lot larger of a problem. I had to make a big move and throw to it to get to the center flake.

After the flake are some more crimpers until you can set your feet. A triangular jug sits above the "U", and after that, it's all big pockets again to the top.

Chase a line of bolts just right of

Radiation Fear

via large pockets on a left diagonal to a good stance. Chill, pull the face on thin edges and get established below the short arete above. Get a clip under the arete's roof and another on the face above. A nifty, kinesthetic sequence polishes the arete and gains the anchor. This sequence may be closer to 10d than 10c. This is a fun route and one of the best on the wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in C-Section