This has a heady move to the first high bolt. The fear can be eased by a shallow 0.5 placement in a slot. This has fun movement up some steep rock before gaining the upper slab. Follow the bolt line and look for the shiny double ring anchors out and right. Be careful of the trees as they grow close to the cliff and a fall lower down could hurt!

Tree It

The Wave

Unhallowed

Dike Pinch

Sun Dancer

Porticullis

Tippy Toes

Optical Illusions

Second Pillar

Right of Trash Can Alley

Cacophony Corners

Overlap

Burnt Beautician

Dusty Bottoms

Don Juan

Harmony Dihedrals

Unknown Pillar

Bridge of Air

Unknown Arete

Three's Company

Black Dynamite

Sundae Driver

Beginner's Luck

Simple Mind

People are Poodles, Too

Bandito

Fart Gun

Upper Deck 1

Pillar 2a

Arch Traverse

R-Tree It

Undocumented (Left of Bandito)

Gargoyle

Dike Arch

Upper Deck 2

Standard Route

Dreams of Far Away Places

Unknown Reach

Upper Deck 0.5

Smear Campaign

Echoes

Dark Winter

Silently Indirect

Napa Valley

Motion Fascination

Catch a Wave

The Steeple

Fearless First

Monkey Gone to Heaven

Red Hangers

Sweet Sunday Serenade

Smooth Reach

El Guapo

Antlers on a Sunday

Napa Arete

2-fer

Single Bolt Seam

High Exposure

Pillar 1

Pass two bolts with red hangers to gain a finger crack. Follow the crack until it peters out, move left to a knifeblade, and finish on the ledge at the

Fearless First

anchor.

This line is badass. Really cool bouldery moves past the bolts and a couple stout moves between insecure locks. Highly recommended.

At first glance, this route looks like a squeeze job that ties into

Black Dynamite

. This is an independent line that has some great climbing. Some traffic and this would clean up nicely.

Head up to the first two bolts passing under the wave. Unclip the first bolt after clipping the 2nd. Extend the 2nd to avoid bad rope drag. Right as the wave becomes shallow there is a seam (the crux)  right above (not

Black Dynamite

) that leads straight up to some varied crack climbing to a two bolt anchor.

Unhallowed is a fully rap bolted abomination on the Sunday Wall.

Pitch 1: 5.11. Climb past bolts and use a cam or two.

Pitch 2: 5.12c/d. This is bolted.

Pitch 3: 5.11-. Climb past bolts using a couple small cam placements at the start.

Head up easy terrain just to the left of

Smooth Reach

. At 40', go up the solid crack to a bolt (not needed), transition to the left crack, and climb up some large holds. Easy climbing (a little run out) trends right on huge, pinchable dikes. Mantle up and onto the ledge with the 3 bolt anchor.

This is the most obvious finish to any route that reaches "Sundeck Ledge".  The ledge can be reached by the "Standard Route" to keep the grade at 5.8, but the recommended approach would have to be "Satisfaction Guaranteed", directly beneath the dihedral--which would certainly be a 3 star combination in my opinion

From the bolt anchor just below Sundeck Ledge, this pitch is a full ropelength and might present rope drag issues.  From Sundeck Ledge, climb up to a chockstone, mantle over onto a ledge, and continue up the very large and steep left facing corner (double cracks), with fantastic stemming and jamming and plenty of rests.  The pitch ends at a coldshut rappel anchor from which two double rope raps will take you to an easy downclimb, or one can scamble to the summit and walk off to the east.

This is a variation to

Bridge of Air

. Clip the first three bolts until the obvious ledge. Trend right on the ledge heading up towards the overhang. Thoughtful moves through the roof lead to some balance slab climbing at the top that can spit you off!

Great Rock!

Tippy Toes climbs a slab down low with the first bolt reached by climbing straight up or by traversing in from the right. Climb left of the next two bolts in a shallow corner before the crux, moving right on steeper terrain before reaching the anchor.

Begin right of the large block that is the start

Simple Mind

. Climb past five or six bolts to the same anchor as

Simple Mind

.

There is an optional seldom done 2nd pitch that requires a C1 move to pull past a bolt to the right of the first set of anchors and climb past another bolt to a crack. Above is another set of anchors. Both pitches could easily be combined for a 100 foot route.

Follow some cool features and weaknesses past bolts up to the top where there is no anchor and you have to walk off.

Pitch 1 -- start out with easy climbing up some fun cracks with lots of holds.  Climb past and ignore an awkwardly placed overhanging bolt anchor on your far left, stay in the corner and continue climbing for another 25 feet or so up to a nice belay ledge with two bolt anchor on climber's right. This pitch can be top roped if desired.

Pitch 2 -- start climber's right off the belay and move up the face trending left toward the big chimney above.  There is gear, but it might feel a little run out to some.  Reach a big dirty ledge with some interesting moves, and work your way into the chimney toward a great hand crack on the left wall.  Continue up and out of the chimney with cracks and face holds to find a two bolt rap anchor.

Rap the route in two raps with a single 60m rope.

This is an alternate 4th pitch variation to

Harmony Dihedrals

and an attempt to find a cleaner line to the rim. I am not sure it worked....

From the bolted anchor atop pitch 3, follow the weakness to the right until you are below a shallow, right-facing corner with a nice finger crack and bright orange lichen (see the photo). Boulder up 15' to a ledge.

Now aim for another shallow, tight corner - this one is reddish. You can fish a medium stopper into the top of this short corner, and follow finger cracks trending left to the next big ledge.

Finally, head straight up into a deep corner/chimney with a nice, hand crack roof on the left side. Pull the roof, and stem past a bush guarding the rim.

All in all, this is a decent way to top out if you finish the third pitch and have summit fever ;) There's much less wandering 4th Class than on the Harmony Finish, more sustained 9+ climbing, and more straightforward route finding... but it still climbs very much like an exit pitch in the Black. Expect lots of lichen and a little choss, and bring a brush/pruner if you're feeling charitable.

Walk left (west) for 15', and downclimb to the rap anchors of

Harmony Dihedrals

.

Just to the right of

Catch a Wave

are a few bolts going through an overlap. It is best to 4th class the beginning and start in the saddle between the pillar and the wall. The start of this route has some poor rock, but after the overlap, the rock gets better. After the undercling through the overlap, do a mantle and head up to the right of first pitch anchors for

Sweet Sunday Serenade

. Continue up the crack and past a bolt to the second anchor for

Sweet Sunday

.

This is a gem of a route that exemplifies the best that Unaweep can offer. The route gives you a bit of everything. The first third offers some steep climbing up a few devious holds. Gain a good rest and go up a shallow corner. The next few bolts navigate you through some great slab climbing and a high step on an awesome tooth jutting out of a rock band. The last quarter of the route follows easy terrain on gear to a ledge up and left. Excellent!

Start under the double crack system, and gently move right to reach the first bolt or have it stickclipped. Climb a shallow corner feature to a crux at the third bolt, and then continue on more moderate, lower angled terrain, climbing right of the bolt line. Finish in a corner feature to reach the anchor. While moderate at the top, most will want 2-3 cams for the top section.

Don Juan is an easy route located just to the left of the point where the Access Fund trail meets the wall.  Look for an alcove of sorts with a _pillar_ in the back.  The pillar is about seven feet high with an obvious horizontal seam.

Using the cracks on either side of the pillar, climb to the top and continue up the dihedral (good cracks all of the way up).  At the top of the dihedral, there is a small ledge.  From here, continue up and right to a second larger ledge and the belay anchors.  Good way to end the day before heading back down the trail.

Rappel with a single rope from the anchors.

This is right of Unknown Pillar and left of

SSS

by about a hundred yards apiece.

P1. Chimney forty feet to the top of the pillar past some tat (5.7).  Bust left and clip three bolts on tricky face through a short, shallow right-facing dihedral (5.10-). Head left at the big ledge to belay at a rap station, or continue up a short right-facing dihedral to a smaller ledge and belay on thin gear at the base of a right-facing tips corner. 100 or 120 feet. These pitches were previously established; ratings are guesstimates on my part.

P2. Stem and jam the beautiful, short thin-fingers dihedral (5.10-), then angle up and left on a diagonal, pegmatite groove (5.9), clipping a bolt and placing a blue or yellow Metolius. One more bolt leads to an airy step left across the peg groove onto some bulletproof slab. Wander up easy slab past a rap anchor to belay at the base of the large dihedral. 100 feet.

P3. This is the money pitch: stellar jamming of all sizes up a right-facing dihedral with jugs and footholds aplenty (5.9-). It is very three-dimensional, blue-collar climbing on great stone. Work your way through or around a short chimney, and then mantel to a bolted stance. 100 feet.

P4. Wander up the path of least resistance for twenty feet (5.8), then take a hard left, traversing until you get to a puzzling roof in a right-facing dihedral. (Pulling the roof before the corner is R-rated; stay hard left to have pro). Find the elusive hold that keeps it 5.9 and pull the roof. Then exhaust your list of expletives on an unbelievably awkward (=fun) bombay chimney (5.8) to more low-angle terrain, and finish with some feel-good stemming to the rap anchor. 90 feet.

P4 wide-free alternate finish courtesy of Skyeler:

Cacophany Corners

Rap 1: single 60m off two bolts to an alcove.

Rap 2: single 60m past a mega ledge to another big ledge. Look fifteen feet to the climber's left for two bolts with rap rings.

Rap 3: single 60m to a station with one bolt and two fixed nuts.

Rap 4: single 60m to the ground.

This was a present surprise after trying to the route not knowing what to expect. It has great rock and movement that follow a great crack system until 10 feet from the top.

I started on the Left hand-side of the large ledge in a offwidth. Once on top of the ledge, move back into the wide corner with many features on the left side. Keep stemming up until you see two obvious zig-zag cracks. Follow the cracks to another small ledge. Traverse left on good holds to gain a hand crack. Make perfect jams to a few face moves past a bolt.

The crux comes after a nice rest halfway up the route. There is a blocky arete and face that continues to below the roof. These moves are thin and tough. The moves through the roof are pumpy. Great route on awesome rock.

This has good, varied climbing that can be done, as I did, in one massive pitch or two enjoyable shorter pitches.  The first pitch offers some fun moves on great rock protected by good gear. The second pitch is characterized by wandering slab climbing up a rounded arete with horizontal breaks every so often. Towards the top, the moves are a bit forced if one wants to clip the bolts. Some may be tempted to bail into the crack out left. It has fun moves if you follow the bolt line.

Start in the nice, left-facing dihedral atop a clean gently sloping granite slab.  Climb the dihedral using finger/layback moves and pull up onto the obvious ledge to the right. Move right along the ledge, and then climb a short offwidth through hands up to the anchors (two bolts).

This route was surprisingly nice.  Could make a nice warmup before doing something longer on the wall.

The crux is right where it looks like it is near the ground.  Start up the crack and pull the bulge via flaring hand and finger jams.  Gain a nice hand crack above and continue until the route meets up with the

Standard Route

.

Put this route together with

Dreams of Far Away Places

for a nice multipitch.

Edit: You can also downclimb the first pitch of

Standard Route

, or rap off a chockstone (bring gray webbing).

This is AKA The Grey Ghost (for the 000 c3 you blindly place after the crux...).

Begin at the same start as

The Wave

, but instead of moving left into that feature, go straight up into the wide pod that becomes a fingers lieback to a small ledge. Steel your nerves, and launch into the beautiful splitter, making sure to place good gear high to protect a potential ledge fall from the cruxy exit (maybe 11a PG-13, but not too bad).

Catch a rest on the next ledge, and clip the bolt up and right (stiff draw for shorter climbers). Make powerful moves (

Front Range 12a

;) up a steep slab with your right hand in a tips seam. The grey c3 is difficult to place, so it's probably better to run it out a little higher to a solid finger-size piece.

Follow the winding splitter to

The Wave

anchor. This is easily TR-able after leading that route.

Beginner's Luck is one of the handful of routes located to the left of the Access Fund trail's end.  From the end of the trail, follow the base of the wall to the left past the large Napa Valley buttress and look for the bolts on Fearless First.  Beginner's Luck is the right-trending crack to the left of Fearless First (there are a few bolts to the left of Beginner's but the routes are not identified in Baum's guidebook).

The first half of the crack is a little awkward in spots but straightforward nonetheless.  Follow the crack past a horizontal break about a third of the way up.  Continue to the top of the crack just below a large ledge.  Traverse left and climb to the ledge and the anchors.  Easy route and a fine introduction to Unaweep's climbs.

To descend, rap with a single rope from the ledge.

Begin on the middle of a large block leaning against the wall.  Move up about 25 feet of thin face climbing until you gain a large hold and a good rest.  Finish by gaining a sloping ledge, and traversing right along the ledge to a two bolt anchor.

Start in a shallow dihedral past a few ledges until the crack starts to pinch down. Do some awkward moves past the constriction and onto easy terrain to the anchor.

The crux is right off the ground pulling a face move to reach the top of a small pillar.  Continue up the crack system to a gully, continue about 20 feet up the gully to a two bolt anchor.

Climb to the right of bolts on low angle terrain in a shallow corner before reaching left to gain the anchor at the top.

This would be a great free route up some great features, but a blank 6' section makes it super hard. Start on the right hand of the ledge. Traverse in from the right to clip a bolt and mantle up past some ledges. Clip a few more bolts leading you to the right of a large detached block. Make a strenuous iron-cross like move to gain the block. From here, clip a bolt, mantle the block, and clip a buttonhead obviously placed for a pendi. Super hard micro crimping could make this go. Or pendi left 6' to gain a good hold onto a right-trending slab. Place some gear and continue up on some interesting climbing to a bolted anchor.

Start the same as for ?Pillar 2?, but after the break in the granite and a bolt, head right up slightly easier terrain than the upper section of ?Pillar 2?.

This is a pretty awesome route. It is a long, arching route with some awesome moves on generally good rock. The dike that you follow can have some small crystals that may break off. Start up a bushy corner to get high enough and traverse left to a bolt. From here, use slings on every bolt in the beginning until you head straight up. Some powerful moves gets you a couple rests and a long slabby traverse to an anchor.

This is a beginning variation of

Tree It

. Traverse in from the right to gain the bolt line mid-way up the route.  From here, make some fun balancey traverse moves on 2-3 bolts. From here, follow

Tree It

clipping some bolts and a fixed nut.

This route has a good section of climbing with good rock and good gear.

Start as for

Bandito

, and as soon as established off of the ground, head sharply left into a curving and wandering hand-crack.  Curve and wander with it to an overhang/bulge 10-15 meters up, jam over that (crux) to a good stance, then wander up and right over easy terrain to the anchors as for

Bandito

.  Step right just before passing a large shrub to arrive at the anchors.

Do the first two pitches of

Sweet Sunday

until you hit Sundeck ledge. From there you go up to the next ledge via the crack with the chock stone at the top. Once on top of the ledge traverse right and up 10 feet. Gain a ledge and then do the corner to the roof. Crux is the transition between under the roof and the hand jam at the roof's lip. Can be done as one long pitch past the roof to a belay from the Sundeck ledge.

It is easy climbing up to a ledge where the dike begins. From here, follow the bolt line with some fun moves on the in-cuts that created the dike. From the last bolt, gain ledgy terrain before the dike steepens and a few last moves to slings around a horn.

Follow the bolt line on the left hand side of the ledge. Start off on some easy terrain clipping bolts. As it gets steeper, the difficulty increases. Clip a head and make some hard moves to gain a hand ledge to traverse left gaining the white corner. Some balancy moves leads up on to some slab. Follow the arching crack to the shared anchor.

The Standard Route provides the easiest access to the Sun Deck Ledge, and combined with

Sun Dancer

, is a great climb to the top of the Sunday Wall.  From the top of Access Fund trail, turn right and follow the base of the wall past the first set of bolted routes to a large, left facing dihedral near a pine tree.

There are two ways to start up the pitch - left and right cracks separated by a fin that runs to the top of the dihedral.  We started up the right side of the fin.  Climb the crack (with occasional chimney moves) to the top of the dihedral (about a third of the way to the top of the climb).  Continue up more face and crack climbing past several smaller ledges to a large ledge (the Sun Deck).  We used every bit of a 60 meter rope and were able to climb one ledge higher, parallel to the rap anchors under

Sun Dancer

.  From this ledge, either continue up

Sun Dancer

or High Exposure, or walk to the right to find a pair of Metolius eye bolts for the descent.  Use two ropes to rappel back down.

P1: From the top of the pillar climb hands/finger/face up and left through a series of ledges and belay on top of the last ledge.

P2: Continue up face moves and gain a hand crack.  Where it looks like the crack is petering out step left into a nice handcrack and continue to the top with a little route finding.

When we did this route, I made another belay near the top of the cliff, making it three pitches.

This route involves a bit of route finding.  It doesn't really follow one particular crack system.

Climb up a broken pillar and clip a bolt. Move past two heads to gain a sloping ledge. A bolt or two leads to a difficult jump to a sloper, or A0. From here, some fun slab climbing trends left into a corner. Some easy terrain leads to an anchor high up.

We thought the rock is a bit lichen covered, this will clean up to be a great route. The crux comes high up before the anchors on the light colored rock. This arching climbs offers great position and unique moves. It is probably the best of the three on the Upper Deck.

Start in the obvious corner that is left of the pinyon pine. Place some gear and/or clip a head. Mantle up and clip bolts as they arc left. Make a few moves straight up over a bulge and piece together the thin crux before the end!

This is a fun route that has it all. It starts off with the same start as

The Steeple

, but at the first bolt, keep traversing right on the hand traverse instead of going straight up. From here, it starts getting exponentially harder culminating at a very tricky boulder problem right before the transition into some powerful laybacking with bad feet. Get a rest, and then don't blow it on the 13- techy headwall. A 70m rope is required to lower from the anchor.

This is a climb protected by mixed bolts and gear and goes up the Sunday Wall.

Begin in the easy gully to the right of the first few routes you approach when hiking in from the main parking lot (this pitch is short and can be done without a rope 5.4). Two bolt anchors with purple rope marks the belays on the route.

Pitch 1 - 5.4.

Pitch 2 - 5.10+.

Pitch 3 - 5.12+/13- not sure where it falls in the grade.

Pitch 4 - 5.8.

Pitch 5 - 5.12+/13- again not sure where it falls in the grade.

Pitch 6 - 5.11+.

Pitch 2 - protects with gear and bolts. Trend left from the anchor up the ramp system and over a few bulges to the anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 3 - protects with bolts and gear(all). This is a techy dihedral stemming to crack jamming to a boulder problem/pumpy finish.

Pitch 4 - protects with gear only. Ascend a dihedral up and right from anchor. At top, trend left on ledges and loose rocks to anchor at base of the cleanest looking face with black streak on top.

Pitch 5 - protects with bolts and gear (blue Metolius to #1 cam/one each). This is a face and crack pitch (hidden clipping hold in dihedral for the second bolt in the dihedral to powerful moves up high on the pitch.

Pitch 6 - uses bolts only. Do mantels and techy face climbing with long reach move at a bolt to a ledge.

Hope you like it!

This is a more direct start to the first anchor on

Unhallowed

. Start in a left-facing dihedral, then step around onto the arete with a small seam. Climb up on top of large flake, clip a bolt, then bust some face moves onto easier terrain. Finish on a thin hands/finger crack to the anchor.

Rappel with a single 60m rope.

This is more of a variation that links probably a few routes. It is a fun adventure that gets you to the top of the wall.

P.1: 5.10. Do a similar start as

Antlers On a Sunday

. Instead of going out the left-trending roof, reach around to the right to gain a splitter crack that bypasses the roof. Take this to a ledge above which some bolts (3-4) appear trending right. This has super fun movement up the wavy great rock. Hit another ledge, and belay at a bolted anchor. (There is a variation of the bolted section that heads straight up instead of going right and shares the same anchors.) This is a long pitch and could be broken up into two.

P.2: 5.10+. From the ledge, head up the crack on the right side up sub-par rock. As you get higher, the quality of the rock increases. Layback a wide section, and head up to the base of the roof. From here, make a few awkward moves around the roof and either belay here or head up 20' higher to a better ledge.

P.3: 5.9+. Head up through a path or resistance. Easy ground is followed by a bushy, ramped crack. Once on a ledge, trend left slightly up a face climbing section to more ledgy terrain. Belay somewhere in here.

P.4: 5.7. Continue up broken an ledge filled terrain to the top.

Pitch 1 - 110 feet - Climb to a chockstone with slings, then up and left to a small ledge under a roof.

Pitch 2 - 100 feet - Move left and climb a crack and steep face to the top of a pinnacle.

Pitch 3 - 50 feet - Climb a short 5.11 section up into a notch.

Pitch 4 - 110 feet - Climb finger/hand crack to a good ledge.

Pitch 5 - 80 feet - Climb 5.easy to the top.

Descent - Walk east to the top of "Sun Dancer" and  do a 160 foot rappel to Sun Deck Ledge and then one more rappel of 150 down.

Climb up the corner on the left and move right to the first bolt.  Continue up to a horizontal crack and protect with a TCU.  Then climb up and mantle to a good stance on a dike.  Protect with a small TCU and continue up past a few bolts making a difficult mantle to another dike.  Continue up the slab past bolts to the top, breaking left at the last bolt.

The beginning of this climb is a little contrived, but the top half is excellent.  The climbing is on really nicely featured stone.

Excellent sport climb! Start just right or East of

Sweet Sunday Serenade

(5.9) and just left of a pillar with a bolted route on it.

Start in a short 5.7 hand crack to gain a good ledge, the business starts here. Climb thin face past 5 bolts up to a sloping bulge, clip the bolt above the lip of the bulge and make difficult and awkward moves up and past the next bolt (crux). TCUs protect the climbing above last bolt. End on a good ledge with a bolted rappel anchor. 140 feet.

Descent: Rap 60 feet into the notch and downclimb class 3 to the ground or rap with two ropes.

This is a 5 pitch route located to the left of

Echoes

. It is a combination of crack and face climbing protected by gear and bolts.

P1. 5.8. Start on Bantido

or

traverse in on easy 5th class ramp on left side of buttress to an obvious dihedral. Go up dihedral that finishes on a ledge. There is an anchor on the top left of the dihedral that is used for rappelling on the way down. From the top of the ledge, you will need to 2nd class past some bushes up and left to a dihedral with twin cracks. You will want to put your anchor here. Once you get through all this BS, everything else will be worth it. 200 feet.

P2. 5.12. Start up the twin crack dihedral into a right-arching crack. Clip one bolt, then traverse right a few more feet to a crack system that goes straight up with 5.11- climbing to a ledge. Clip a bolt and then bust the 5.12 crux to another bolt, then trend right to a 2 bolt anchor on the ledge.

(At the first bolt down low on the route, if you keep going right on the arching crack, you are now on Smear Campaign 5.13+.  So be sure to go up after clipping the first bolt.)

150 feet.

P3. 5.12-. Face climb with bolts to steep twin cracks that has a 12- crux, then continue up the crack system to a ledge. 100 feet.

P4. 5.10. Go up the right-facing dihedral to the left onto a ledge that has a one bolt anchor that is supplemented by a finger-sized cam. A short pitch has to be done to aleviate rope drag. 50 feet.

P5. 5.11+. Go up the left-facing dihedral to the top of a pillar, then go up to a small ledge with a dihedral. From here, you want clip a bolt and step right into another crack system that will take you all the way to the top that finishes on a giant ledge. 120 feet.

Fearless First is located about five feet to the right of

Beginner's Luck

and is the most obvious bolted line as you walk around the Napa Valley buttress (there are a couple additional unidentified bolts / lines to the left of

Beginner's

).

The guide states that

Beginner's

and Fearless share a common start.  It is also possible to climb directly up to the first bolt, and avoid the

Beginner's Luck

crack without adding any real difficulty.  Climb past four bolts and a single fixed pin above the fourth bolt.  Above the pin, angle left to the anchors shared with

Beginner's

.  A couple small/medium sized stoppers can protect the small run out above the piton.  Good route.

This climbs a great chunk of stone with very technical moves up a steepening face. The first crux may be getting to the first bolt! 25' of 5.10+ will get you onto a small ledge and a bolt. From here, the steep wall throws a variety of devious moves with only a few rests. There is a show stopper at about halfway up. At the top, exit with a mantle to a ledge and a old angle iron bolt. From here, traverse directly left to a two bolt anchor.

Sweet Sunday Serenade is a Unaweep classic. It consists of three good pitches on excellent rock. The climbing is not very difficult but highly enjoyable. The climb is located on the right hand side of Sunday Wall and starts in a left-facing dihedral with a right-leaning hand crack. Just to the climber's right of the route is Catch a Wave, a bolted 5.11 face climb that shares the same anchor as the first pitch on S.S.S.

Pitch 1: follow the crack up and right with a 5.8 move just off the ground, 135 feet to a bolted rappel anchor.

Pitch 2: climb obvious corner up and left from the anchor with fingers and face moves 5.9 for 75 feet to a good ledge with bolted rappel anchor.

Pitch 3: there are several options. The original line leaves from the West end of the large ledge above the belay and climbs a right-angling crack for 25 feet to a ledge below a large flake. Pass the flake, and climb a nice finger crack 5.9-.  Near the top, traverse slightly right, and look for another bolted rappel anchor, 155 feet.

Descent: rappel with two ropes to the ground.

This is a good chunk of rocks that give you a little bit of face and crack action. Start up the quartz ramp, and traverse right to a bolt. Clip two more bolts, and work through a hard-to-read crux move. Make your way right where you can get a red C3 and up easier ground to a ledge. Make some steep crack moves up a pinching crack, and mantel to a sloping ledge. Cut left on a ledge to a 3 bolt anchor (new as of Dec. 2020).

Stickclip the first bolt or use small cams in the crack at the start and make difficult moves past the first bolt. Difficulties gradually ease as you pass the next four bolts of climbing. From there, the angle lessens, and you can finish by going left to the top of

Bandito

or the anchor up and right.

I bolted this in 2017 but had previously led it on trad gear. I suspect, and have heard rumors of, at least one other person possibly climbing this on gear. While you can fiddle in gear, I felt like it was much better as a mixed climb with a bolted start, and at the time I bolted it, I had not heard or or seen evidence of any other ascents and despite climbing extensively at the area and on the route for years. That being said, I recognize it's possible in the often shady history of Unaweep that it may have been climbed and led and the chalk washed away and would completely honor a prior ascentionist.

Scramble up 5 feet past a tree to reach a good finger crack.  Make a tough transition into an offwidth pod (5.10), then easy climbing leads to the obvious 5' roof.  Turn the roof on the left side using a good crack and some cool features on the left wall (5.10 crux), then easy ground leads you to a ledge at 50 feet.

Build an anchor to belay from in the acute corner just below the big ledge.  Rope drag is kind of unavoidable if you try to TR it with a belay at the bottom....belay from the top instead.  The last person to do the climb will need to traverse right to reach the bolted anchor on

People are Poodles, Too

and then rappel (3rd Class, but very exposed).

This is a pretty good climb!  It is definitely better than

Poodles

next door, which seems to get much more traffic.  The cracks and gear are good, the rock is solid, the bottom has some neat jamming, and the crux roof is really cool.  It has very Yosemite-esque climbing.  The anchor situation is a bit of a bummer.  A community-minded individual could do a service by adding an anchor to this one.

This is a good route that is a great alternative to the first pitch chimney on

Napa Valley

. It has engaging climbing with great position on some solid rock. I recommend starting on the right side of the arete.

This is actually two routes next to each other that share the start and anchor.

The one on the left is easier and on great rock. Clip some bolts and throw in a few pieces. The crux comes near the top after a bolt.

The right one is easier in the beginning and trends slightly right of the other line. Towards the top where the rock scoops out, it has a cruxy move and is probably 5.10+ish.

Both are great routes.

This is a good, varied route that starts just left of the first pitch of

Sweet Sunday Serenade

. Head up easy terrain to a sloping ledge and a bolt. Pull through the seam and up the shallow corner. With a little cleaning, this would be a great route! Bring some more slingage and a leaver biner, or add a bolted anchor, as just some tat and a single biner is up there now.

This route is listed in both Green's Falcon guidebook as well as Baum's GJ Rock book.  But it must not get climbed very frequently, because the first half of the first pitch was a muddy, vegetated nightmare. A few chalk marks, and a single-nut bail station, told us we were on route though.

P1 starts out thin hands/hands in the left leaning crack, then feeds you in to a nearly-OW gap in the right-facing corner above (5.8+).  Stop at about 35 m on a big triangular ledge, with a dihedral above.

P2 climbs the 5.7 dihedral which leads to easier rock to the summit (~35 m).

This has good moves on good stone. Follow the bolt line up the ridge and up the face. The face moves are broken by good rests on ledges. Its cruxes are near the second bolt and the last bolt.

The ROUTE IS IN YELLOW IN the PICTURE.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sunday Wall