Ascends the obvious (and no doubt climbed a number of years ago) crack system on the NE side of BFD Rock.

Face climb directly above the boulders at the base.  The "A" shaped face converges into a single hand/fist sized crack (past a couple of small bushes) which is climbed to a ledge.  Climb to the summit with no pro (30' 5.5) on crumbly rock, or, belay at the ledge.

The Smell

This is a great and tough route that is overhanging and full of sharp crimps. Scramble to the top of the large ledge with your belayer to start the route. Stick-clipping the first bolt would be a smart idea.

The first two bolts are accessed by pulling on small crimps, making V5 moves. Large edges and small jugs help you run it out to the third both that is very awkward to clip because of the nasty small roof you have to fiddle with. Continue using sharp edges to pass more bolts, using good footwork. After clipping the last bolt, head left on two positive, but small, crimpers to slap the sloppers to top out. Once you are on top of the route, traverse back right to clip the anchors.

An open chimney leads to a steep face with just enough features and protection to keep it from being too spicy.

Climb up the open slot, chimney up and step left working the nice handholds.  Follow weaknesses and protection options slanting slightly left until possible to go straight up to short roof (horizontal crack for gear).  Pull roof, and, build belay anchor on top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in BFD Rock