nice line, cruxes off the second and third bolts.  good stances to clip.  Perhaps the best climb in this section of cliff, for quality.

Second Helping

Afterthought

Realm of the Venusian Sex Pygmies

Sorta Maybe Kinda Wild

We All Lived on a Russian Submarine

Mouse-A-Dillo

Restless Natives

They Shoot Horses

Hieroglyphic

Dogfood Factory

Blind

Left of Afterthought

French Blow

L. L. and L.

Big Bambu

Presence

Yer Own Private Idaho

Mickey Mouse Meat

Pistol Whipped

Con’s West Left

Devilution

Cytotoxic Storm

Con's West Right

Noam Chomsky's Lair

Pap Smear

The Art of Deception

Leon Trotsky's Hair

Leslie's Arete

Houses of the Holy

Kissing Marilyn Monroe

Stalin Does Dallas

Open Project

A Gift From Shannon

Physical Graffiti

A Piolet for Leon

Nimrod

West of Venus

Say Hello to Geronimo

Blue Condition

Revenge of the Pygmy Sex God

Treats

Apostrophe

In 2011 Physical Graffiti was a heavily effected by fire due to the fact that it was directly over a tree.  In 2019 this climb was re-envisioned and re-cleaned.  This is now a good quality route with independent anchor and goes straight up.  This climb starts up ledgy terrain to pockets near the first bolt.  Leaving bolt one expect good pockets on vertical slab with not much in between for the hands.  Fairly sustained climbing with protection where you want it.  Expect more distance between bolts on easier terrain. Even though Physical Graffiti was not my favorite Zeppelin album this climb is highly recommended.

Ed DeLong originally put in the anchor and then didn't do anything with it for years. I got sick of looking at it so I bolted it a while back. It seemed a real possibility that clipping the former 2nd bolt was so sketchy that you could hit the ground pulling in the rope to clip if you slipped off so in November 2021 I put in a bolt between the old 1st and 2nd bolts and another bolt between the old 2nd and 3rd bolts.  I also replaced the old chain anchor with new bolts and mussey hooks. Now it's not so heady getting up the thing. Crux between first and third bolts.

Low angle climbing with positive grips.  Heads up through steeper section and veers left to the anchors of West of Venus.  Bomber quality limestone the whole way.

Great line that burls up a slightly overhanging dihedral, then changes character completely with a testy face traverse.

Super fun - there are big flanges to pull on in the dihedral, and always decent stemming you can get going to keep any pump down.    But the moves are continuous and fun.  Then the face traverse is a real shift in tactics after all the stemming!

The book gave this route no stars, which I assume is because they never did this line?  At any rate I think it is one of the best 10a sport climbs I've ever done.   Do it if you are in the area!

Start up a deceptively-tricky, right-leaning ramp before manteling onto the top of a pillar.  From there, continue up crimps and pockets through the headwall.

This climb is named in honor of a story told by Bob Branscomb about the origin of the upcycled titanium hangers that it features.

Begin on a series of jugs that lead to a good rest at the break.  Pull through good pockets and sidepulls up the headwall.  Fun, varied movement.

beautiful water streak left of "blind" starting in front of tree, "restless native" climbs up to first bolt then to the right to flakes and then back left at 3rd bolt and straight up.  the direct version has yet to be done!  originally equiipped by todd skinner.

named in honor of all the locals who seek and equip first ascents!!!

Follow the obvious crack up the middle of the Pillar. Trickier than it looks.

Contender for best rock quality at Fairfield.  Climb grippy slopers, side pulls, and positive crimps leading to a engaging

arete.  Body positioning is as important as shear strength for this one.  Very cool climb be sure to check for fossils as you go.  Moderately

steep, morning sun afternoon shade.  A great climb for a warm day.

This climb starts up low-angle terrain with big holds that become smaller and trickier through a small bulge.  Finishes up heavily featured pods/flakes to anchor.

Enjoyable side pulling action can be found throughout the route.

A vastly different route than it was during the 1989 FA, this climb weathered a major fire and has since been rebolted and re-cleaned.

The climb starts on a series of jug rails, before pulling onto a series of crimps and surmounting a small bulge. Once you are through the crux at half-height, there is still a good bit of pulling to do before the chains.

One of the less inspiring routes on the wall.  Surmount a ledge 6’ off the ground clip a high first bolt, look for a natural line up the face... finding very little you will likely end up traversing over the the manky crack to the left making difficult clips.  Goes right at the end through a small bulge at to to an communal anchor with Afterthought.

Make big moves to big holds leading up to a bulge at top. Needs another brushing sesh.

A very bouldery start all the way to the second bolt (stick clip the second bolt a nice option: it's a thin stance to clip from for this bolt). Very pumpy, thin, and crimpy.  A move off the second bolt snags a nice edge and from there life gets easier, though still not a giveaway.

Pretty straightforward limestone slab. Thin start leads to bigger holds. It has recently been rebolted and recleaned and is worth climbing.

Start up a a left trending flake to a pocket rail traversing right passing bolt 3.  Then chase side pulls and jugs to the anchors out left.

The bolting is odd on this one.  Has glue-ins now likely rebolted post 2011 fire, but before 2018.

Well-textured angular climbing leads to juggy finish.  This thought-provoking route will keep you on your toes, literally and figuratively.  Worthy of a try when you're out this way.

A very thin and a bit intimidating crux above the second bolt, very small hold slab climbing at its best (not for everyone). I rather like this climb but a lot of people not into slab climbing will not appreciate its demented nature.

I repeated this on 12/7/14 and found that the fire did not effect this route.

Start in crack feature, which leads into low-angle face before pulling through a sequential bulge.  Steeper than it looks.

Crux down low, boulder problem/bulge, slab crux up higher.  Branscomb vision originally!

Another nice piece of rock at the Sex God Wall.  Much like the rest of the SG wall tricky crimpy start, good quality pockets and crimps on low angle stone lead to a juggy top out.  Travels in a straight line to the anchors. Fairly tricky for 10a with a committing 3rd bolt.

just to the left of "pistol whipped", on the other side of the tree, bouldery at bottom to slab climbing on black and tan stone, will clean up more

Starts on pretty solid rock with a stand up move into two underclings. Move through some good pockets and up to a flat edge. From here, there's several ways to negotiate the crimps above you and enter the layback flake. Pick your poison! Once on the layback flake, follow it up and left, don't fall on the big move, then climb fun holds/flakes to the anchor.

I really thought this thing was going to be hot garbage based on the rock quality, but it turned out to have pretty fun movement! Give er' a go!

Short, low angle, big hold climbing from top to bottom.  Not a bad chunk of rock but there is not very much of it. Starts straight up then trends left to a communal anchor with Con’s left. Could be good first lead.

Climb the crack section of "Sorta Maybe Kinda Wild" until you reach bolt 5.  Instead of traversing right for the original finish (which shares an anchor with "Leon Trotsky's Hair"), continue up the crack and summit the pillar.  Take a solid rest here before going straight up through jugs and side-pulls.  Expect a tricky bulge crux before reaching the anchor.

A double length draw is nice to have on the bolt where it parts with SMKW to reduce rope drag.

Fun short route on really great rock. Make a move right off the ground from a two finger pocket (crux) to a jug. From here, the difficulty eases up and you follow nice grippy pockets and flakes to the chains. More sustained pockets than most of the other routes at Fairfield.

The first ascentionist finished the route just in time to make it to her appointment...

Harder than it looks. The rock quality is quite good and littered with many pockets, but all of them are a little smaller than you want. There is a slight bulge halfway, making it tricky the whole way and surprisingly hard for how short it is. A contender for the shortest route in Lander? It was originally an old Bob Branscomb TR.

This route is between SortaMaybeKindaWild and Che.  Starts below right end of a left slanting overlap.  Bouldery start goes to upper end of this overlap, thence straight up on thin crimping to easier area leading to the anchor shared with SortaMaybeKindaWild.  Interesting moves and crimpy at the cruxes which are: 1)getting established, 2)moving to the upper end of the overlap and 3) the main crux above a nice hold at end of said overlap.

prominent arete feature with chalk, technical and bouldery, equipped by b. branscomb

This route shares an anchor with Presence to th right.  Houses of the Holy is the left route at 10b. Both are earlier Fairfield routes and have more adult runouts. Note the titanium Russian hangers. Very cool. The holds, like many earlier Fairfield routes, is a little rougher than many people like, but you have grip on these puppies like you can't believe! A good and sporty route.

Start slightly uphill of the arete forming the right side of the buttress.  After a couple of bolts, proceed on the crest, ending on the left side of that crest near the end.  Balancey and delicate with the crux around the third and fourth bolts.

Stalinism at its finest! Hard start gives way to a finger crack and jugs.  At 1/3 height, expect an all-day ledge, then continue up through sustained crimps and flakes to the anchors.  Good quality stone.

Face climb to small bulge to thin seam and beyond.

Long and proud.  After interviewing the Fairfield Hill regulars I am of the understanding Scott finished this line and has opened up this beautiful line for all.

Thanks for cleaning and opening this up.  Name and grade to follow when known. Likely at least 5.12 terrain.

Good bouldery route that follows side pulls and single pad pockets up a black streak on bullet stone. The route goes up a bulge, and is actually gently overhanging the whole way. There are two mini cruxes between bolts 1+2, and 3+4, but it is not over until you clip the chains. The rock is some of the best in Sinks, but it is unfortunately super short. Worth doing if you are in the area! Maybe 5.11d, who knows.

I believe the OG Fairfield hardman Bob Branscomb TR'd this nearly 30 years ago.

Thin and sharp (!) pockets & crimps. Eases after the 3rd bolt.

A hard start off the deck (high bolt protection)laying away into a corner on the right.  Go up this little corner, then left to the main crux, a thin move to a pocket and nice jug.  A hard crimping section above this to easier and fun ground.  Well protected and a lot of fun.

A fun romp up a thin seam, then face.  Features a cool little lieback around the 3rd bolt (crux).  Maybe the funnest route on this wall.  Well protected.

Start below the initial overhanging wall.  Clip first bolt and stem/face up and slightly right, then up to some good incuts and a side pull with the left hand to clip the third bolt.  Work a bit to the left and up into a lower angle area.  Pretty much straight up the very steep upper wall from there, the holds becoming very positive before the anchor.  The crux is the initial overhanging wall and getting past the third bolt, though the upper wall is probably 10a.

Nice line up the left side of a seam/arete.  Hardest part off the ground but the rest of the route is steep and fun moves.  Very, very well protected for us mere mortals.

Short and sweet, good feet and positive holds the whole way.  Bomber limestone and well protected.  An excellent novice lead or warm-up for the day.

A fun and sustained crimpy face between Apostrophe and Realm of the Pygmy Sex God.  Very well protected.  Rated 5.9 in the guidebook but I still think this is some sort of a sandbag rating.

Sustained 5.10- crimping from the deck.  I wish it was about 20x longer, though.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1. Fairfield East