Juniper Tree

Pump and Circumstance

Finding My Religion

Losing My Religion

Balding Bob Ain't So Bold

Slappin Ze Bass

Edge of Da-Light

Road to Nowhere

In Search of the Holy Rail

Big Tyme Arete

The Roof

Work the seam that goes to the left when facing the wall. The first crux starts pretty quick on Tiny underclings and crimps gain you to between the first and third bolt The second crux which starts slightly to the left of the giant black streak and works into it. V7/V8ish problem with a pretty reachy move gets you threw the first crux. 4th bolt gets clipped with a pretty nice jug ledge rest. Between the 5th bolt and 6th is another decent rest spot. Final crux is between bolts 6 and to the anchors working the arete style corner.

I believe this route was a Dave Larsen project from the early 80's according to Black Hills Climbing Historian and climber Brent Kertzman-    Only one rusty 1/4" bolt existed above the first crack.    The wall faces south gets shade about 4 pm.   A long stick clip or easy 5.7 climbing will get you to the high first bolt . At the first crack a blue alien or a creative #4 stopper placement will give you confidence to reach the 2ond bolt-   The next two bolts is the Business- you just may    (Find Your Religion)    The second crack will take anything from a .75 to a #3 cammalot.

To find this route scramble via north slabs to north summit; from a scrubby pine tree near SW edge, rap down to the route.

P1 S / 70: Start at the bottom of the yellow wall and climb the left-right diagonaling bolted crack to gain the blunt W arete.  Follow the arete past the anchors and low-angle slab to the ledge below the crack.   P2 T / 55: Climb the left-facing flake and finger crack to the bulge.  Exit right and gain the anchors. 

"This route goes absolutely nowhere-- a horizontal crack on lower East side that never gets far off the deck."    That is literally what the book says...

This route starts off a boulder and moves up some technical crimpy face moves to the roof. Pull past the roof onto more technical moves. Neat moves of many varieties.

Obvious roof with crack about 80' off the ground on S side.

Turtle Rock is just south of Sledgehammer. It is a very large rock, and has a 3rd Class slabs on the northern end of it. This is how you get to some of the routes such as Balding Bob Ain't So Bold, and Omega Crack. The other routes you access by walking around either side. I do not know the first ascents, so feel free to comment on who got them or any other corrections. I am just pulling this information from the old "Black Hills Needles: Selected Free Climbs" guide book. It is the blue one. I just thought it would be good to get these climbs out there as they are very fun! Enjoy.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Turtle Dome