This route starts just right of Saharan Dust, at a small, left facing corner that's 6' or so off the ground. Follow five bolts past thin moves in the corner system. Small fingers may make the climb easier but it is more difficult than it looks. Try to avoid moving over left into the easier rock, it wasn't meant to go that way. Five bolts may be excessive, but the 5.9 climber will be happy to have them where they are, at each move. We are more interested in safety than ego, but keep in mind that you don't have to clip every bolt if you don't need them. There are many routes here that I skip bolts. Toproping will be easier because you don't have to hang on to clip the bolts. You may find this one to be more difficult than 5.9, so I will let you make an opinion.

Little Bugger

Quickdraw

Gateway

Quarryisms

Double Roof Ballet

Crimps and Slopers

Swamp Thing

Flight Time

Black Hole

Short Face

Unknown

Mr. Aidman's Free

Hardman

Left Of Time

Growing Pains

Blast in Black

Left Squared

Saharan Dust

This one starts in about the same spot as Swamp Thing but has its own first bolt. Climb past the first bolt to an awkward stance on the first ledge. There are nice holds above to get you in position to clip the second bolt. Move right towards the chossy rock but start climbing up on good holds, without getting into the choss. At the third bolt, move left and up over the big ledge to the anchors. You have several options at the third bolt, but nothing very difficult. If you intend to set up a toprope, make sure to be tied into an anchor before walking on the ledge. There is a set of rings at ground level on the wall behind you, please use them.

This route is fun and has a nice flow once you figure out the beta.  This route was hard to read from below and what looked like good holds usually ended up not being good.

At the top of the gravel pile, step up onto several large ledges and move to the right where the path begins to move upwards on large holds. Either climb straight up or arch back to the left and step out into a hidden pocket and up through a slabby section to a left facing corner and on up to the anchors. If you had continued to climb straight up, traverse back left to the left facing corner. This is one of the best beginner climbs in the park, especially as far as length. This was once known as Beginner Right. The rock quality is quite good here.

Update: there are multiple holds that have changed on the route due to rock being removed but it is still quite easy. Bolts were added to make this one of the easiest beginner leads in the park. There is a loose rock about 1/3 of the way up the route but it is in a position where it will not come out. Do not worry if you come across it, as it does not pose any danger.

Navigate pass an awkward section to a good stance. Next reach up to find something before reaching the anchors.

The start is often wet and requires climbing through rotten rock or the start of Hardman to avoid the wetness.  Thought provoking climbing though two roofs leads to a reach move near the top.

The crux is at the start of the route. A power move from good edges to a jug. Then technical balance moves to the anchors.

Starts at the right hand side of the top-rope wall near the rock pile and pine trees. Begin under the first bolt and climb up to a small, awkward ledge. It was intended for the line to stay to the right of the bolts but it is easier to the left and will undoubtedly be the way that most climbers will go. Plenty of holds either way and the climber can choose their own path, just stay near the anchors. The rings are really easy to access from the upper ledge. It is a short but fun climb.

Early history is unknown. Travis Mabe helped clean the line around 2013 but we only top-roped it as there is little to no natural pro. It does tend to stay wet, hence the name.

Start on good flakes and then bypass the small roof on the right before working back left to the massive drilled hole.  Make sure to look down into the hole and continue up and left before moving back right through a weird move and gaining the anchors.

1st crux is pulling the low roof. An easier variation climbs right of bolt #2. Continue on good holds to an undercling. Make some long reaches to jugs then solve the second crux before arriving at the anchors.

This is an old top-rope route that was first climbed in the mid-80s. There is no natural pro so it is unknown if anyone ever soloed the route. I would say there is a good chance that Steve Pope or one of his crew did indeed solo this at some point. It is short and a little awkward. This can be used as a first pitch for Pumper, which should be bolted soon. Climb the obvious features on the right side of the bolts.

Mainly 5.10 climbing leads to a choose your own adventure crux moving past the third bolt.  The remaining climbing is 5.9 or easier.

This route is a little more straightforward than it's neighbors but is also more powerful and pumpy. Climb slightly overhanging rock on good holds that lead to a powerful move into an undercling.

Fun technical face climbing with interesting sequences and bigger moves.

This is a beautiful line following a continuous crack/flake system to the top. It needs little description as it will be obvious when viewed. This was a trad line but is now top-rope only, which is quite unfortunate. There are multiple ways to climb up the route and it can even be laybacked most of the way. This is a newer name that was chosen for the line. Have a little fun and experiment.

This route starts to the right of Gateway and uses part of what was once Gateway Direct, which no longer exists. Start directly below the first bolt on easy rock. At the second bolt, smear up onto the large block and head for the third bolt. Head straight up for the top of the block, trying to avoid grabbing the edge out left. On top, near the wall is a nice finger crack, or just mantle. Climb straight up the wall past the fourth bolt to another mantle. The rings are not in an ideal location so it is better to just rappel back down. Not recommended for top-roping or lowering, unless you watch the edge closely. I did rappel the line over a dozen times and had no issues.

History can always be a tricky issue. Steve Pope did tell me that they didn't climb this line, although it is possible they did and he just didn't remember because it is a little easy and nothing special. We did solo Gateway Direct, which was easier and finished much further left, back in 2010. As far as the current, bolted sport line, July 2016.

Climb a broken corner to some interesting mantling moves. Crux is at the fourth bolt.

This one is mostly easy with only one or two difficult moves near the end. Years ago, we called this route Dirty Chimney. However, so much rock was removed that it completely changed the dynamic of the route and its path was changed. Do not climb through the square hole or just to the right of it as that area will remain closed. The first part tends to remain wet longer than the surrounding rock. Start on easy rock under the first bolt and angle up towards the left edge of the square hole, past two more bolts. The crux is moving up past the fourth bolt. Just make sure to stay on the left edge of the hole.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Section 4