The route is  up and right of Butt Wall 100 feet. It's the second route right of

Little Flatulence

.

Start climbing from the large ledge and go over the roof halfway up. At the base of the roof, you can plan the crux move. The route faces south and can be done, early in the morning, while waiting for the main wall to get sun.

Matillda

Little Flatulence

Broomhillda

Left Cheek

Butt Crack

Going Greek

The Nose

The route is on The Butt Wall just to the right of

Little Flatulance

. As far as we know, this is the first new route in years on Monitor. What's the problem? By Bob Robertson.

Set up the belay near a tree on a ledge near the middle of the Butt Wall, to the right of the route "Butt Crack."Scramble up to the first bolt, then traverse left and up the orange rock, over polished holds, passing a ledge with a small tree.  Continue up the steep, well-featured, face past more bolts to the anchor.

A couple of avoidable juggy moves leads to easier climbing. Finger jams with a difficult clip lead past a bulge to the anchors.

Climb the steep, fractured crack above the alcove. Rather than start in the depths of the mini-cave at the base of the crack, you can also start on the face and clip the first bolt of

Going Greek

. Once in the crack proper, make some steep moves before the angle eases considerably and the climbing becomes juggy and relatively easy. Watch what you grab as some of the holds appear suspect and may be less-than-permanent. Moving left and right at different spots may help keep the grade at 5.8 to avoid cruxy spots. A 3 bolt anchor is found at the 100 foot height, just right of the crack and below the ledge with the large pine tree.

Currently this is the 2nd bolted line from the left at Butt Wall.  This starts in the wash just right of the tree (on the left side of the alcove), and moves onto the clean face above.  It shares anchors with

Left Cheek

.

The Nose is an excellent outing featuring lots of climbing on moderate rock. It is a great route to take kids / beginners on.

Start at the right side of Butt Wall. You'll see an obvious dike system leading up towards a large tree.

Pitch 1 (5.6). This is the crux - follow the dike. Adequate pro is available, but you can't always see it coming. The glacial polish adds some zest to the pitch. Pass a fixed pin and a bolted stance to the tree on a large ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.0). Work up easy rock, aiming for a small tree just to the right of an obvious dike system climbing the nose of the next tier.

Pitch 3 (5.6). Step up and left onto the dike. Clip a fixed pin and do a short crux at the initial bulge. Above, the climbing gets easier, but the pro is sparse. Work a bit right toward the next step.  You could avoid this staying to the right. Belay at the end of your rope in a low angle area.

Pitch 4 (5.5). Climb up, aiming for an obvious crack at the left side of the steep area. Once up the crack, follow easy ground up and right towards trees.

You can unrope here and scramble the right side to the top or do an extra pitch.

Pitch 5. A final wall rises left of the big ledge atop P4. We shifted the belay to just left of a large tree and climbed a weakness on the right side of the step (5.8). Above, it's another 200' of 4th class to the summit.

Descend to the left.

Per

BJ Sbarra

: the best descent is to the East. From the summit, head north until you can pick up a faint trail that follows a mellow gully system through trees. Follow this around to the right, until you are heading east down a prominent gully (also low angled). From here, the way should be obvious, as the trail is fairly worn, with a few spots of downclimbing, and when you hit the aspen grove, make a hard right until you get the trail again.

Description

Protection

Routes in 1. Butt Wall