This route is located on the upper tier of the rock, and has magnificent views of the San Jose area, and also potentially of would-be bottle throwers at the top of the rock. Another advantage of this area is that the rock is smooth and a little sheltered so that glass seems to miss the belay stance on the route.

To access this climb, either climb the lower tier routes and go a little right until the rock starts heading severely downward, or you can also walk over from the path by following the apporach to the top anchors for the lower tier, and continue around to the right until you see bolts heading up a steep face. This route is climbing the wider slab just to the left of the bolted route fecolagniac. There's also a small tree that is in the perfect belay stance.

This route wasn't too spectacular, a one move route on the top portion. The crack to the left has to be off, or this climb would be maybe a 5.8. Starting at the belay stance and going through the initial crack instead of heading around to the left on top of the large block makes this a little more fun.

Urolagniac

Double Cracks

Rigormorris

Spung-Lick-A-Litus

Donuts with Buddha

Glob of Shit

Fecolagniac

Skillsaw Gourmet

Enter Sandman

Wide Crack

Worm Belly

Tree Surgeon

The Roof Crack

Ribbed For Comfort

The Molar

Rectalphobiac

University of Santa Clara Practice Climb  1

Chancroid

Bolt Filcher

Crimps of Bel Air

Double Cracks starts just right of University of Santa Clara Practice Climb #1.  It actually isn't two cracks down low - but one wide crack and two seams.  Stay on the seams below the first bolt.  After the bolt, work you way into the wide crack and pull over onto the ledge.  Then up top follow the quality double crack system for another 15 feet to the bolts.

Start up the crack that forms the lower portion of the "Tree Surgeon" (5.10a), then exit up and right onto the overhanging arete that forms the crux of the climb. The hardest moves are found on the last ten feet.

This climb is located on the arete of the upper rock of the lower tier. It will be the second climb you come to down the approach trail.

Cruxes are getting off the deck and a balancy roof move between the 4th and fifth bolts on the arete.

This would be a better route if it were climbed a little more, as considerable time was spent simply cleaning moss out of necessary grips.

A really fun little route, starting with some steep shenanigans that lead straight into the deceptively hard and reachy crux.  A small cave allows a sit down rest, then an easy but pleasant ramble leads to the surprisinglycommitting but easy layback to the anchors. 4 FHs in total, and take along a long sling for a big thread betweenthe 3rd and 4th FHs.  Double FH lower off (take long slings to reduce drag over the bulgy lower walls) - the lastclimber should ramble up for another couple of metres to the rap anchors.  It's a good idea to stick clip the first FH, as clipping it from the first ledge is dodgy if you're shorter than Shaq.

This route is located on the upper tier of the rock, and has magnificent views of the San Jose area, and also potentially of would-be bottle throwers at the top of the rock. Another advantage of this area is that the rock is smooth and a little sheltered so that glass seems to miss the belay stance on the route.

To access this climb, either climb the lower tier routes and go a little right until the rock starts heading severely downward, or you can also walk over from the path by following the apporach to the top anchors for the lower tier, and continue around to the right until you see bolts heading up a steep face. if you get to the bolts on the considerably less vertical slab, you've gone past the route and are looking at Dahmer's Delight. There's also a small tree that is in the perfect belay stance, and should probably be used to anchor the belayer to avoid pulling a climbing team dowm below over the lip into the lower tier.

Slab climbing with a neat transition between two cracks.

This is a really balancy route that involves a safe yet exposed crux between the second and third bolts. The route is also little runout before the first bolt, and after the third bolt, though the climbing in these sections is considerably easier.

You'll want a really long sling for the last bolt to reduce rop drag if anyone will be top roping.

Skill Saw Gourmet is a lot tougher than it looks.  The move to the first bolt is challenging but is easier than what follows.  After you clip it you have a myriad of flared hands and suspect feet at your disposal.  Move right past the second bolt and work the arete up past the next couple bolts.  Its like a good boulder problem followed by some more pumpy stuff.Finally you reach an easy slab which you basically walk up until the steeper part right at the top.  For this it is wise to place a cam in the crack on the left.

3 bolts to a 2 bolt rap chain on-top of the free-standing pinnacle.

to the left of "tree surgeon"

A great route, mixed trad/sport for leaders, one of the few moderates at Summit Rock.  About halfway down the "Lower Tier" in Morris's guidebook.  You'll notice a prominent "chimney" in the lower portion of the climb, topped by a chockstone.  After surmounting the chockstone, climb to a ledge, where a (surprise) wide crack begins.  The crack offers a super-fun intro to liebacking and ascends 20-25 feet to the anchor.

Located on the upper rock of the lower tier, this is the furthest right climb. It has a very apparent chimney on the top 10 feet of the climb.

An interesting balance move makes this a worthwhile climb. The crux is just below the second bolt, and has potential for groundfall from 15 feet off the deck. Beware of glass in the base of the chimney above the second bolt.

The gnarly bottle-necked crack down and right from "Skill Saw Gourmet" and "U. of Santa Clara Practice Climb #2" identified by the hacked stump of a tree about half way up. The last moves involve O.W. or head locks.

Crack that is to the right of the small cave - in between Glob of Shit and Chancroid. Route goes under and then up into the cave, and then continues on the thin hand crack to the right onto the face. Crux is getting into and then out of the cave, harder if you are short, not very many handholds over the lip of the cave. Fun to see everyone try a different way up and over.

Slabby face climbing up the arete to the left of Wide Crack.

On the rock left of Summit rock proper, and the only route facing away from it. The crux is the mantle move near the bottom, then the face above the ledge is rather simple and enjoyable.The route is rather contrived in that every move could be avoided by climbing left of the bolts, but then that wouldn't be any fun!

This route begins below a large rock in the middle of the lower tier of climbing. A fun route that has an overhung section, some neato caves, and also a tough slab section at the top.

Falling prior to the first clip is really not a great idea, as the bounce into the glassy sand deck wouldn't be fun. The section after the 2nd bolt is runout, but simple and fun.

The crux is getting to the last bolt on a balancy slab.

Located towards the left side of the lower tier, this route is obvious because of the honeycomb lattice at the top of the route.

Giant crimpy moves and overhung eyecandy make you forget that you're on a slab, and that you don't have to do pullups the whole way up.

The first bolt is a little unncessary, especially since a better place to belay on this route will be above it.

Part of the fun is figuring out a comfortable position to clean the anchor at the top.

Chancroid is devious climb that makes for an even tougher lead.  The first bolt is pretty far off the deck and the crux is below it.  You could protect this part with a cam if you wanted.  There's a chalked-up fin and a thin seam to the left of it for the first 20 feet.  Big reaches and crappy feet would be the best description I can think of.  This whole part is tough.  Then the holds get bigger and more frequent 1as you pass by a hueco and the second bolt.  Proceeding to the top is comparably easy.

Chancroid is on a left-facing portion of the wall between a very visable crack and Skill Saw Gourmet which faces straight downhill.

This Summit Rock classic is just right of Wide Crack and left of U. of Santa Clara Practice Climb #1.  It ascends a prominent arete to a ledge.  Crux is steep face climbing directly after the ledge.  Follow the bolt ladder to the anchor.

Start on the left side of the prow, get to the Arete and climb straight up the highball prow.

Description

Protection

Routes in Summit Rock