A direct version Heavy Charlie. Start as Art of War, climb into Sticky Bomb.

Heavy Direct

PBR Prow Sit

Pansy Tank

Sticky Bomb

Hand Grenade

Heavy Artillery

PBR Prow Stand

Belly of the Beast

Start as for Heavy Artillery / Art of War and climb the underbelly of the roof.

Tall and technical with a variety of holds. Sit start with a right hand crimp and low sidepull for your left hand. A couple precise moves will take you to into the stand; hold it together to the jug halfway up. After you top out remember to look down in superiority at the cave crawlers below.

Start on Art of War Finish on Hand Grenade.

From Hand Grenade start, climb straight into the final grips of Charlie Couldn't Do It climbing through a sloper and bypassing the detour moves on Heavy Charlie.

Start on the jug in the middle of the cave next to the rock. Go right and pull the roof with a number of holds to choose from.

The guidebook says to hit the pinch and then go right to a sloper, but there seem to be a number of ways to do this problem, all with similar grades.

Start on Art of War Finish just left of Hand Grenade. V7 from slopping Rail.

One of the best of its grade in Tuolumne. Stand start with a right hand sidepull and a left hand undercling/sidepull at head height. Pull compression moves on flat holds until you can reach the jug at 1/2 height. Stand up on the jug into the no-fall zone and continue on easy climbing the top (or cut out right).

Sit start is V9; PM Shade

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in May Lake - Battle Tanks