The direct version of the crescent, named for its... insecure and body tension based nature. Start with a low left underling and right on the obvious rail. With bad feet and a tight core move up, staying on the rail and avoiding baling to the arete. A really good addition to the field

The Croissant

Good Head

Welcome To Heartbreak

Brown Noise

The Crescent

Brand new Miura's

The Crescent Sit

Big Body

Right most route through dirty rock and lichen (will be cleaned soon). Start on small undercling with sloppy feet rock up onto sloppy ledge using crimps on right side of arete. Stand on sloppy ledge and reach up to crimps and move feet up onto kind of sketchy feet reach out right and use undercling to gain the top. That is the crux because you need a strong head because directly below you is a sharp rock that would not feel good to fall on, hence the name of the route.

The crack starts at a pocket which you match in get bad feet where ever you can pull up get two fingers in the next pocket get comfortable with your feet and then get your other two fingers into the same pocket get a far left foot grab a little crimp on the face then use the crack to switch hands and reach around the arete for another crimp bring your right foot over to a crappy hold then bump up to a decent sized crimp pull up for a good jug and top out  

  The crux is getting the two finger pocket to work out I would say and your feet it's mostly smearing  

  Very thin crack I would say if you follow the crack up it would make it maybe V5-V6

This route is still dirty in the crack I need to get a brush to clean it out better but where I used the crack is clean. 

  Sit start on jugs with good but crumbly feet and move up to a left hand crimp then put your right hand into the crack below the bulge then jam above that with you left. From here move right hand to a jug and start the crux. Pull over the limp and make use of crimps and the crack get a high foot on the jug your right hand was on and pull over the top.  

  Like I mentioned before the crack is still a little dirty so be careful about that. The fall isn't great so have a spotter.

This is an aesthetic and technical line that follows a beautiful, arching flake up a tall, slabby face. 

  Start sitting at the bottom of the flake with your left hand on a good hidden sidepull and your right hand wherever you prefer on the obvious flake. Pull off the ground and angle rightwards via some technical foot moves to eventually reach the arete with your right hand. Continue bumping your right hand up the arete and doing whatever you can with your left to keep from barndooring. Clever footwork and strong body tension will allow you to reach a good crimp below the lip with your left hand. From there, locate some good top out holds and figure out a way to turn the lip. Done! 

  While this climb has not been previously documented, it's obvious that it has been climbed before. I met a guy named Pete (from NY) who used to live in the area and he said he climbed the problem 5-10 years ago and thought he might have done the first ascent, given how much cleaning he had to do. If anybody has any more history or information, feel free to share!

Sit start in the same good start as welcome to heartbreak, with a good foot out right. Instead of following the crack out left, continue straight up and slightly right, using under clings, side pulls, crimps and rounded slopers to top out.  All the time wishing you were wearing brand new Miuras instead of whatever is on your feet.

Sit start the bulge with a left hand sloper and an interesting large hold for the right. Pull on and move up to another interesting large hold and a series of slopers. Utilize the use of an undercling feature and lean leftwards to roll into the sloping pinches on the arete. At this point you are set up to go into the crux of "The Crescent". Make a few delicate smears and high steps as you oppose those sloping holds and reach for the top.

Start low on a large flake jug.  Make a big move up and left to a good spot on the arete.  Easy finish on jugs, but be careful of a dinner plate jug that rattles.

This congregation of boulders contains several sizeable blocks. A few of these boulders are found in a seasonal wetland, while others tend to be surrounded by a dry landscape even in early Springtime. Classics of this area include the tall, aesthetic, and technical slab called "The Crescent", while others are slightly less appealing but still very good such as "Brand New Miuras".

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Crescent Area