This route climbs just to the right of

Back to the Future

. Move up on thin holds to the crux after the 3rd bolt. The climbing stays somewhat sustained at the 11a range until the last 15 feet or so. This is another great route at The Bank.

No Future for the Timid

Future Fossil

5.9 crack

5.10a corner

McFly

5.11 Arete

This is Your Brain

No Rest For the Wicked

5.10 Crack

Rock Frog

Concentrated Weirdness

From Russia With Love

SuedeHead

Peter Pan

Back to the Future

This route is on an excellent section of the cliff (named Back To The Future Wall) with 4 or 5 other routes that got stellar ratings in the guidebook.  It is a great place to spend a day.  This is the easiest, with the others being hard 11s or easy 12s.

Back To The Future is easily identified by 2 huge pockets, side by side about 8 feet off the ground.  This route has everything.  It's not just a pocket-fest like many of the other routes at Shelf.  The crux is about halfway up and ends in a huge bucket.  The route is sustained and ends on the slabby sharp-as-hell rock that I found at the top of most of the routes at Shelf.

Another Back to the Future Wall classic, between

No Rest for the Wicked

(to left) and

McFly

(to right), this is a very nice, thin route.

Climb technically through the crux bulge at 1/3 height on small edges, a mono (brief not too tweaky) and sidepulls. It lets up slightly before tackling more technical, thin, face moves above.

B/C is a very good climb with fun moves. As you walk down the cliff line from the 2150 Wall, B/C will be on the first column after the second break in the cliff line about 40' before the Back To The Future Wall. Make sure to try this one if you are in the area.

this route is located on the ledge that is above and left of the back to the future wall.  it is a thin crack just to the right of moaner.  william prehm's excellent photo shows the location.

fun little overlooked route, worth doing at the end of the day, or if you have climbed most of the other routes in the area.

follow the crack using mostly face holds on either side and the occasional jam.  i didn't notice any single crux, but most of the route is kind of balancy.  i thought it was surprisingly more difficult that i thought it would be.  some of the stances i chose to place pro from weren't exactly the best.  probably best thing to do at the top is rail left to the anchors on moaner.  or you can top out and scramble to a tree and figure out 1 of many ways to get back to the base of the route.

this route is on the very far right side of the ledge that is above and left of back to the future wall.

i thought this was the best route of all of them on the ledge.  begin at the very right side of the ledge in a nice corner and fire straight up it using jams, pockets, crimps, pretty much anything and everything.  the rock is pretty good, the protection is good, and it has a bolted anchor so you don't have to top out and figure out how to get down.  very fun little route.

Starting with a lower section of 12- climbing, gain a decent rest and fire a boulder problem start on small holds.  Continue up on strenous pockets and crimps to the anchor.

This is the striking bolted arete to the left of

SuedeHead

.  Climb the 5.easy right-facing dihedral past a bolt or two to the ledge on the left.  Reach up and right, clip the bolt, and pull into the business.  The first crux comes with strenuous layback moves requiring standing on a brick sized loose block.  The fun doesn't end there, and the route will stick with you for another 4-5 bolts until you clip the chains.

This route clocks in at 5.11a in the book, but both my partner and I  felt it was a huge sandbag at least as an onsight.  The holds can be out of sight around the arete, and the sequence was not obvious at all.  Pulling the crux will be much more difficult if/when that little block blows.

A few jams and laybacks on a great shelf face climb at mid-left on Back to the Future wall (2nd major clean wall on N side of Bank).  Easily climb up the initial ledge and follow the crack through three bolts and technical face moves to the fist overhang.  Cop a rest before pulling the crux and continuing up this strenuous climb to the anchor.  I found no holds at the anchors, and used the massive ring attached to said anchors to clip the chains.  Anyone else find this also?

Per

Bob-a

: The lowering rings were not installed on the FA...the route when to top (adding a couple more moves), and you lowered from a tree.

this route is on the ledge above and to the right of back to the future wall.  it is just right of the route called peter pan.

cruise up fairly straight forward cracks to a small roof/chockstone/block.  at this point you have to choose right or left.  i chose left and topped out via the crack and face holds on the block and on the left wall.  this was definitely the crux for me because it was a bit steeper and the rock didn't seem bomber.  scramble up a ways to a tree for an anchor.

Rock Frog is a nice but short face to the right of the Back to the Future Wall, recognized by the tree at the top, part of which extends horizontally over the trail.

The hardest moves are right off the ground on polished crimpers. After the third and last bolt, the face becomes scratchy but the difficulty eases. I give it a PG-13, because there is a possibility of a bad fall from the top, although the climbing here is pretty easy. I'd give this tricky climb two stars if there were an anchor. Unfortunately, there is none, and descending requires either a nontrivial downclimb or rappelling from the tree.

The climb starts on a ledge to the right of

B/C

which is located to the right of the Back To The Future Wall.  It is the second section of cliff line past 2150 Wall.  This climb is not really anything special.  It might be a good warm-up climb.

This fun route starts 5 feet left of

B/C

, about 25 feet right of the Back To The Future Wall.

Climb straight up overhanging crux start to first bolt, and continue along fun moves past another crux near the fifth bolt to the anchor. It is also possible to start in the corner around left at about 5.7.

This is a beautifully technical route that is both gymnastic and powerful with two definitive cruxes. The first crux is between the 2nd and 4th bolts, after the three pockets...involving a matchbook left hand to a deadpoint to the sloping "Quarter Pounder" rail. There is a endurance crux of .12- after the rail and before the anchors.

It is up on the shelf just left of the arete route on Back to the Future Wall. The route is on the 50-foot wall and has some exciting climbing through a slab, a roof, and some pointy rock to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 07. Back To The Future