Easy holds into a thin crack traverse, into a reaching crux over the roof, then another crack traverse to another feature set to the left, then up to the top with small chossy knobs -- this route is crimp city boulder, but extended into the finger crack traverse etc.

Sun Dogs

Crimp City

Pretty Machines

Half Moon Slab

Hangout and Play Catan

Losing Touch

Choss Avenue

When In Doubt Direct

Pinch left

Touch the tree

Gnome Mercy

Alligator Clip

Low Hanging Fruit

When in Doubt...

Sandstone Throne

Unnamed warmup

Living covida loca

45”xxx”

Pablo Picasso

Pipe Dreams

Drag Queen

Lockup

Parvus

Mini-approach to the main crack, main crack runs up 2/3 the height of the wall, offwidth but solid rock, deep and bad feet all the way to the top-out

Start almost directly beneath the old bolts. Climb up, and start heading to the left. There should be, near the end, an edge, another one after that, then a set of two crimps. The finish hold is an edge up and to the left of those crimps, about three feet to the left of the highest old bolt, the one with an orange loop through it.

Hand crack that turns into an off-width halfway up, not vertical so a fall is dangerous, bad feet the whole way but solid crack holds

Solid face with pockets and crimps for hands, and a crux with feet on a small half moon shaped slab.   Starts with both hands on crimps and right foot on a small ledge. Left hand goes up to one of 2 good holds, and your right foot moves to the slab. Work your right hand up to the small pocket in a layback move, then power on up to the top 2 great holds. From here it's easy to work feet over to a large ledge to the left, it's a good place to rest as you don't really top, then just drop to the pad

The boulder starts once you’re in the bat hang position. All rock below the ledge is off for feet and hands expect the initial starting hand tap. Crux is either getting out of the bat hang or getting to the third hold.

Thin Finger Crack runs 1/3 of the way up, turning into a reaching crux for 1/3, last 1/3 is loose stone nub holds to the top-out.null

Start in the crack in the corner right of "When in Doubt".   Do a few nifty moves to avoid the dyno start of "When in Doubt" and finish the same way

SDS on the nice ledge, climb straight up avoiding the temptation to use the drill scar/crack to your left. Top out at the two nice pockets.

A compressed traverse sure to challenge the lankier among us, but no cakewalk for shorter climbers either. Start with two hands on the obvious crack, then work your way right staying under the low ledge - feet anywhere you want, but no hands above the roof. Avoid touching the loose rock in the center of the traverse, as it is unstable/unsafe, but the horizontal crack to the right of the loose rock is good once dusted off, and there is one good pinch just under the roof. One option is to mantle the roof in a classy "waiter" move. Finish with two hands on the low sloper around the corner. Roll off to dismount!

Start with two hands on the bomber ledge and work your way to the left using the smaller aretes. Follow them back right again and finish just above where the crack starts.

Start with one hand in a pocket and one in a single grip before following a quick route ending in a two handed grip on an overhanging ledge to the right of the start.

This is on the lower terrace of the park, very visible just as you enter the park. The route is to the right of the face. The start is a running dyno to a large flat edge. Climb the rest of the holds up.

After the starting ledge (green line), the only holds "on" for the starting wall are the crimp (purple arrow) and the second ledge (purple line) near the large diagonal crack. The next hand is a mantle off the left face on the upper section of the right wall (yellow). The middle section of the right wall is off (red lines). Using small crimps on the upper section, find feet below on the lower section and traverse across. Gain the upper ledge (blue tick). Top is at the white carat.

Start from opposing jugs, go straight up to the crack under the small roof

See picture for start and end. Start on the low ledge and feet up. Reach for the crimp and find a 2 finger pocket to lean on. Grab the next ledge. The rest is pretty easy.

An old drill scar. Starts with an undercling directly below where the scar disappears. Once up a little higher all hands and feet are inside or directly along the edge of the scar, other than the final feet, which are 2 nice ledges well outside the scar. In the lower portion of the scar there is a crack along the back that offers possible hands and good feet.

Start on large belay ledge, climbs up to two other ledges at lower than 5.8 then to a finger crack roof crux

Start with great holds at the bottom and work your way up to a sloper crossover then big bump to the top. Watch rock quality, some feels weak.

"Parvus" lies just to the left of "When in doubt..." Start holding on to the left facing "crack," then reach up to the sloper that can really only be held like an undercling. Next handhold is a crimp, and finish on a horizontal edge.

An old, abandoned quarry turned into a park in one of the nicest neighborhoods of Madison, WI yields plenty of potential for prime bouldering. The rock is mostly sandstone, with some dolomite. The sandstone parts are strong enough to hold on to. The area is mostly visited by people out for a short stroll and the neighborhood kids. Seldom is it frequented by climbers. There is an upper terrace and a lower terrace; the lower is very sunny, while the upper is quite shaded. Plenty of climbable area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dudley Davis Quarry Park