If 4on6 and Seul Avec Dieu got together and had a baby it's name would be Superfly. This route is a blast and with more traffic will gain reputation as being a classic. Stand start with right had on a pinch and left foot on good edge. Stand up and get left hand high (as seen in photo). Now for the crux sequence. Pull off an insane left foot high step (circled in photo) and smear and pull (on nothing). Get your right foot on a good edge (underlined in photo) and reestablish your hand on tiny crystals. Now if you're tall you'll be able to hit the horn from here (also circled in photo), but if your 5'8'' like me your gonn have to work out some beta very similar to 4on6 to hit the horn. For me it was a very insecure smear with my left foot. Once you hit the horn get your head together, point your nose up, and head for the top.

Superfly

Split Personality

No Pad No Problem

The Wind Below

Commitment Issues

Anger Management

Helen Keller's Slot

Through The Rabbit Hole

Isolated Recovery

No pad No problem shares a start with commitment issues but traverses right and up to the large horn in the middle of the boulder. from there it goes straight up to the high point of the boulder.

Be prepared , this route throws everything at you! Finger to off width crack, lie backs, slopers, Criptic Gear and even a mantle top out! Crux? With so much variation every persons crux will be different. This route definitely has a  “Split Personality “! Use your rests wisely, no move harder than 9+ but very sustained. Gear is good, be patient in places it is there.

This problem starts with hands matched in the diagonal slot (yellow x's) and right foot on a smeary ledge (yellow x). From here bump left hand out to a small side pull and work out some beta with the feet in order to get a really high left foot. Stand up and go right hand for a gaston (crux move). Now pull up and enjoy jugs to the top.

Crux is trusting your feet. Stand start and use the force. A cool single finger pinch crystal is encountered after the first two moves. A few high steps are also used. Tops out where there is a small diagonal gash on top of the boulder.

Fun and interest crack climbing leads to a typical Baldy Bouldering mantle top out!   Follow the right crack through the dihedral steps to a bolt and "heartbreak" top out crux.    Mind your gear at top of the "steps" - pro is great don't pass it up.   The top out is so fun - however you may have to manage your Anger trying to figure it out!   The bolt is high -  the clipping hold is good!

Helen Keller's slot climbs the right facing dihedral.  It's a bit of an awkward climb, but I found it very enjoyable. Knowing how to hand jam as well as grovel up some off-width will come in handy. The crux will be either getting in and out of the overhanging off-width section or clipping and moving past the second bolt. Try to save your energy down low as it does not let up towards the top. The route protects very well with a standard rack and needs nothing larger than a #3 bd c4.

Fun dynamic climbing on shist leads to an interesting overhanging finger to hand crack  finish - gear is Bomber!!

Climb the left-facing dihedral into a cool, short off-width section through a bulge. Then you're on the ledge and ready to begin the diagonal crack going up to the left. Is it a crack, or is it a row of petrified pirhana mouths? I'm no palentologist, but I think it's the latter.  Follow that as it gradually widens to bigger than fists and the foot holds disappear to your left. Pass the anchors on Helen Keller's Slot and fight through the last few feet of diagonal slot to the anchors.  Bolted anchors are up over the bulge a bit, so consider bringing a double length sling or two to extend them for rope drag considerations.

The Sanitarium is part of the Robinson Rock area which consists of Sanitarium, Boondoggle Wall, and the Cell one tower. It is off the beaten path and has a good concentration of trad climbs as well as a few amazing boulders that should not be missed. The grades start in the 9 range and go up to 11s and include an open project. As far as bouldering there are 4 established problems that go from V0 to V5 Pg-13.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sanitarium