Start on the 2 lowest crimps on good rock. This adds one move into

Long Blade

.

Long Blade Sit

Flint Lock

Peg Leg

Flynt Flossy

Treason

Cape Horn

The Plank

Captain Bumpkin

Scurvy

Coconuts

Long Blade

2nd Mate

Crystal Arete

Start the same as for "

Long Blade

."  Once you hit the nice horizontal rail, work a little to the left on it.  Then get your feet set and make a big toss to a massive jug.  Pull over on easier ground to finish.

This is the leftmost line at Pirates Cove.

Start on good low crimp rail and move up right to an ok right handed slop/crimp.  Next pull onto the painful left handed, teeth-like, sidepull crimp.  As fast as you can, bust up and right to the finishing jug on "

2nd Mate

", and top out.

Climb the crack and face arete on the east side of the "

Scurvy

Block."

Start low on a left hand round pinch and a good right hand crimp (the left hand for

Long Blade Sit

). Move straight up using pinches and a toss to finish either on

Flint Lock

or

Long Blade

(it doesn't really change the grade).

vimeo.com/167975024

The topout isn't hard, I just got my pants caught.

Just left of "

The Plank

," start on a bad looking pinch. Work your way up to a left-sloping pocket and bad crimp rails. Better holds can be found above.

Cape Horn is a rare slab/vertical problem for this part of the park. Start in underclings with your feet on the skirt. Pop your right hand to the arete, get your feet situated, then fall into a smallish, left-hand crimp. Move your right hand to a tooth-like crystal, then move up and left through crimps to the prominent (and surprisingly solid) horn, and mantel over.

Climb the right most side of the Pirates Cove wall.

Start left of

Flint Lock

on jugs, get a heel, and grab a slopey crimp. Surf out left, and keep bumping until you get a good hold. There's a rock behind you that you have to consciously try not to dab on.

Try it if you're bored.

Climb the southwest arete of the pinnacle that is about 30 feet west of The Pirate's Cove. This is a great line!

Start in a semi-recumbent position on an edge about four-feet off the ground and your feet on the only feature available to the right. Proceed up and left on a very technical, sequential face. Top out a little further left on sloping holds.

Starting from a small left crimp and a bad lower right crimp fire up into a sharp right hand crimp and to a nice in-cut rail for both hands.  From here you move right onto a nice jug flake system to more jugs at the finish.  Fun.

Sit start with both hands in the large slot that runs along the bottom of the rock. Work the right hand to the arete, match the left above, and go up and left again to a crystal about 3-3.5 feet above. Finish up and slightly left on small and sloping holds, and onto the slab above. Move off left to an easy downclimb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pirate's Cove