The Loaner

Techno-Pig

Cash Register

The Thrill Is Gone

Lord Caffeine

Re-Animator

Fingers In The Till

Ivory Tower, Center

Grease Monkey

Pressure Vessel

Age of Darkness

Double Feature

The Stanley Edge

Body Double

Air-Cooled Unit

Tideline

Missle Toe

Enemy Within

Hot Box

Live Wire

Miss Apprehension

Ivory Tower, Left

Short Change

Deutsche Mark

Lock of Ages

Talk Dirty to Me

Easy Money

Broken Arrow

The Chamber

Tits On A Bull

Right-curving crack that goes from thin hands to fingers, with an exciting finish.  The anchor placements are very far back, about 25 ft back.

Climb an overhanging hand crack to a steep dihedral with a thin lieback/stem (crux) that protects with small wires.

Pull up onto a ledge.  Then up a right-facing flake.  Make cool transition moves to the upper straight in crack, and follow that up to anchor bolts on the first topside ledge (not required to do the trivial scramble up to top most ledge with huge tree).

Begin in the wide right-facing corner below the offwidth roof.  Lieback/undercling the roof (10d). Turn the corner to continue up the offwidth crack. Follow the crack to a series of steep slabs (10c) broken by two horizontal cracks.

A fine awkward and flaring right leaning crack climb. Depending on your strengths and weaknesses, you may find a different crux than your friends. I find all sections hard! Pants and long sleeves recommended.

The thin seam to the left of Short Change. Hooks on top

Thin 5.12a dihedral crack to a 5.12a tips finish off of a dike rail.

Another fun crack climb, and a good warmup. Mostly a great handcrack with a thin hands section at the top.

Right leaning hand & fist crack.

Start in lower crack & move to upper crack when possible (about 10').

Pro is good until the crack peters out just below the ledge (5.9 move)

Traverse off ledge to tree (climber's left) to walk off.

Obvious flared hands above a small roof.

Start down and right in small dihedral & climb through small roof to the left (5.8-9 ish) and the move left to under final roof.

Flared, bottoming crack through roof (crux) to ledge.

Thin right-slanting tips crack to a hand rail traverse up and left to the top of the Ivory Tower

A 5.9 step across face move accesses the main crack which leads up to a step across left to a parallel crack where the 5.11a thin crux is located.

An outstanding finger/handcrack, one of the best of the grade in the Meadows. Lots of varied jams.

Climb the right-hand of the two cracks starting in the alcove up and right of the Ivory Tower formation. Crux involves wide fist jams. There's a miracle rest when it becomes possible to stem out and touch "the missle" with your toe.

Great OW climbing on slightly grainy rock. The crux in my opinion is where the cheater flake on the right wall ends and the crack widens momentarily. Once you pull through this (stacking helps) the climbing is sustained but secure.

The finish is an easier wide squeeze.

Begins as a thin crack for about 20 feet. Where it peters out is the technical crux. The pumping crux comes in 1 1/4" crack leading to top.

Crux is near the top of the crack before face climbing leads to the top.

From a flat platform, scramble up a 5.6 start until you can launch into the overhanging hand crack crux (5.10a).

A fun, easy offwidth that still requires you to actually use some OW technique. Low suffer quotient.

Use jams, sidepulls, stems and jugs to reach the chains. Nice and pumpy, very fun jamming. Bolts have chains

Climb small dihedral through small roof straight up to black corner crack.

Continuous, slick climbing with decent finger locks.

Dirty chimney (but the climbing is clean) leading to a constriction with jams.

A straight in thin hands and fingers crack leading to a dirty mantel finish over a bulge ending on a small flat ledge.

Stunning thin crack leading to face moves.

Head into the back of the chimney and up. The Reid guide gives this 5.7 R, but I think most will have a hard time finding any mandatory 5.7 moves. Fun addition to the olmsted offwidth circuit.

This also makes a great solo, due the the nature of the chimney you can never really fall all that far.

To descend walk left and rappel of the anchors for The Thrill Is Gone. If you went without rope keep walking left until you can walk down a gulley.

Short straight in thin crack that starts with hands and ends with tip locks in a groove.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Olmsted Canyon Right