Climb the obvious crack in the right facing dihedral at the bottom of the hill to climbers left from the approach trail. Ascend a crack with pods in it getting medium sized gear to a sandy, loose, and sketchy ledge. Build an anchor in the small roof and bring the second up. Traverse ledge to climbers right and continue up on Double Caves Crack through a chimney to the top.

Caterpillar Crack

Blue Biner

DAB Chimney

The Spider Squat

Double Caves Crack

Hierarchy

Seven-Ten Split

Aptly Named

Lost Dart

Love Hurts

Dicey at Best

Good Tang

Lost Dart Crack

The Weasel

Der Kommissar

Climb the featured vertical wall past a flared section of crack to twin cracks above. Move up to a bulge before a ledge. Belay (or not) at the ledge. Finish in a crack above to a vegetated ledge.

In most guidebooks this is listed as a 5.2. That is a fairly rediculous grade to apply to this route. It is slightly harder.

DAB stands for "Dicey at Best" which is the route that begins off the ledge that this route ends on. You can scramble up on the ledge to the right and begin that route, or set up a top rope on this route.

And you can top rope this route. You can build a gear anchor out of horizontals on the wall above the ledge.

This is a chimney/offwidth. It takes a bit out of you physically, but it's fun a good route to practice your wide crack technique on.

The Spider Squat is rated three stars in Ray Ellington's guide (3rd ed), but it should be avoided due to a gigantic (and pretty much unavoidable) nest of poison ivy on a ledge at the top of the first pitch.  It is nearly impossible to step around, and more than likely you will stick your head right in it as you try to get onto the ledge.  At the very least, wear pants and long sleeves.

The climbing is decent but not amazing.  The route finding after the first pitch was very confusing.  After climbing a crack in decent left-facing dihedral on the first pitch, you arrive at a large ledge under a giant overhang.  Moving up and left and traversing around a bulge gets you to another large ledge.  Where the route goes from there is anybody's guess.  From Ellington's description we couldn't figure it out, and so we rapped off a large tree.

From below the big open book that makes up this climb hop up on to the ledge and traverse right and climb up a blocky corner for an easy option or go straight up the flake system to the next ledge with a tree on it. Work up not so steep terrain until you are looking up into a hole in a rough. Climb into the hole into a cave then out another hole into the dihedral. Climb this to a ledge a rap off a tree or continue to the top via Pogues.

Climb nice, rounded edges to the top of the blade shaped boulder. The holds will make you thing you are in a gym.

Getting off the ground is the hardest part.

Begin on the obvious jug, deadpoint to a gaston on the left and top out. One move wonder, with goofy top out. But standing on top of the boulder is a little like balancing on top of a bowling pin.

Start low and to the right, feet up under the mossy section of the boulder. Traverse left on great pockets with your butt dragging the ground, at the left edge of the pocketed face climb straight up to a good top out.

This is better than it first looks.

Chimney up the left side of the gap behind the leaning pinnacle. Move right into the boulder pile below the summit.

Scramble on up on the right to the wobbly summit.

Downclimb back to the boulderpile and rappel from slings or continue downclimbing.

This is all about body tension. Climb up vague features to the top of the boulder.

From the ground, for the grade, this is a very intimidating route. If your leading limit is 5.7 then you may want to follow this one first.

Well right of Dicey at Best find a deep dark dihedral with big roofs above.

Climb up relatively easy ground to a stance below the first roof. Shorter people will be forced to stretch for good holds above.

Climb up to a ledge above the second roof (sneak left to keep the grade moderate) and belay.

Continue up a wider crack to the top of the wall. Rap the route with two ropes or find some other way down.

A left facing finger crack in the back if the Lost dart corridor.

Begin by reaching up to opposing crimp sidepulls. Step high, and then deadpoint for a nasty crimp at the upper lip. Power through the top out.

One move wonder, but still pretty cool.

About 20 feet to the left of Shattered chimney up to a low roof. Face climb to an overhang and continue up a dihedral to a ledge. Walk left to rappel.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Small Wall