This route involves a layback sequence that quickly becomes a religious experience as you slowly but surely work your way up hand over hand, hand jam after hand jam up a righteously wicked crack. 

  For those crack-addicted hand jammers, who pray the rosary, this climb is a must! For those who layback will find salvation! And woe to those who have a desire for a bold lead for they will beg for mercy after the last bolt brings them forth unto a blank face climb with a hell-fire series of crimps that will end in an elevator ride if you fail to make the anchors before thine idle hands give out.

Holy Slit

Blind Faith

Hushpuppies & Hand Grenades

Plastered Bastard

Master of Craft

Forbidden Fruit

The Muehl Train aka "Hell's Creation"

Lost Soul

Devils advocate

Stigmata

Master Blaster

Gotta Have Faith

Original Sin

The Confessional

The short bolted line to the left of Holy Slit. Easy start leads to a punchy boulder problem.

This short route packs a punch. Getting off the ground can be humbling (if you do it the REAL way and not start up the hill and traverse in).   The climbing is very bouldery and sequential using some really cool holds along the way, such as a mono disguised as a jug. Not much endurance is required for the successful redpoint, just figure out the sequences and sprint!

Burly, barn-dooring, arete climbing! Just as good as 'Master Blaster' 

  Start up master and clip the 4th bolt with a long draw, catch a rest and traverse right to the first bolt of Plastered, another long draw is nice here. Pull a powerful crux to a very nice rest, you're going to need it to pull the heartbreaking moves passing the last two bolts!

This route is pefectly vertical with good pocket pulling and other various holds. This is a really nice route with exellent rock quality. To bad this wall is so small.

The crux is a sequential series of really neat moves low on the route. Move right onto the flake then back left onto the face. Eventually move left onto the arete near the top and locate the anchors.

The yellow book wrote this one up under the name, "Hell's Creation". 

  The new guidebook refers to it by its proper name, "Muehl Train". 

  Either way, you are in for a hell of a good time! 

  No matter what name it goes by, this is a devilishly fun route located at the edge of a gastly abyss. Starts on good pockets and ledges and quickly works its way up to some crimpers that are guaranteed to become problematic if you have not properly made the first and second clips. 

  If your finger tips survive the onslaught of nastly feelings, like those akin to what one might experience while touching a flaming pitchfork, roll yourself up as efficiently possible to shallow pockets that might have you second guessing your lease of life. To fall would be bad but to make it past this seemingly enternal torture would be like achieving nirvana. This climb gets better the higher you get. There is a serious amount of ass-kickery in a climb that only requires four clips which have to be made from mean, endurance draining stances. 

  Get on this climb! Does a hellish-painful experience await you or will you climb from the limestone abyss to the heavenly vistas above? Rope up and sign your name in blood after you puncture your fingertips on this climb meant only for the bold and fit.

Within the divine belly of The Gully of Biblical Porportions is a playground, which God blessed us with and - with his odd sense of humor - might actually give us a chance to go meet him/her in person if we slip off this crag into the ferns below. 

  After carfully making your way around a corner, one will happen upon a bold, black streak and come to a personal crossroads, which, of course, takes place within each and every one of us. 

  Go big...or go home. That is the quintessential dogma that is represented within the Land of the Five Twelves. It's virtures have become sanctified tenants in which climbers define their lives by. At some point within one's climbing career, one ponders the question, "How hard to I wanna go...and thus, how far do I wanna fall?"  

  To climb rocks is to truely wander, and if you are a climber who loves the idea of being able to wander off into 5.ll sport climbing territory without the threat of damnation, then this lavish, yet middling route is calling your name. 

  It starts on a slab, yet it starts on a crack. How high can you climb the crack? How how many footsteps of elevation must you achieve before you traverse? How many crimps must one endure before a bucket hold and a nice, comfy place to stand and shake out your twitching arms?  

  All these questions - and more regarding all things existential - await you at this 5.10c crack climb that becomes a 5.11 face climb should you choose to accept the will of the road less traveled. Go ahead, test your faith. Test yourself and see if you are at a point in your life where you could potentially go into territory that you have never yet experienced. Is the secret to life within the potential ride...or should you keep to the moves that stay within the bounds of your reason? Risk it all, or not at all...finding a righteous path to the anchors is possible and well within your reach...even if you get lost along the way.

 The bottom line is we are all lost souls, we feel conflicted about many of our decisions within life and that is why were are human. We know not perfection yet within our conscious psyche, which we might call a soul, we feel something that suggests to us that we are granted a chance to achieve it. How you get there is up to you.  

  Get on this route! It is awesome and awe inspring! Spearfish Canyon does not have an over- abundance of "Choose Your Own Adventure climbs" due to the beta intsive nature of many of the routes in the area which rank into the 5.11 and 5.12 territory. 

  Do this route! Do it over and over again! Do it everytime the relentlessly hot summer days (or the cool sprinkling showers of spring) drive you to this truly humbling crag.  

crux is getting past third bolt   grounder potential going to 3rd

This route climbs right up the center of the beautiful black shield of rock just to the right of Blind Faith. Be prepared to grab some really small holds on the slabby beginning. The wall then kicks back a bit and the climbing becomes more powerful and tenuous, with a interesting sequence near the top. I felt like I was on edge the whole way up this thing.

bouldery bottom with big finish moves.    I think its one of the best in the area.

The arete tucked into the back of the gully. Steep, with good left hands and terrible right crimps and slopers.

This shady area has a collection of excellent routes all on beautiful black and white streaked rock in a lush, fern-strewn environment. On hot days this is a great place to climb as you'll sometimes get a nice cool breeze blowing through the gully.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Gully Of Biblical Proportions