This route has excellent moves the whole way.  The start is a bit tricky for the first 15 Ft.  Small nuts protect the moves well.  Continue up the crack on good locks until the crack peters out.  Traverse slightly to the right, clip the bolt and make the reachy moves to positive holds (crux).  Sticking the holds above the bolt is pretty exciting!

Right Son of Thunder

Super Crack

Concertina

L.S.D.

Let's Make A Deal

The Beast in Me

Screamer Crack

Transcendence

Stabat Mater

Beauty Shop

Gun Club

Backlash

Mushrooms

Momma's Squeeze Box

Loud Noise

Begin slightly right of Mushrooms, by doing a boulder problem that leads you rightward to a good hold. Continue to a bolt and another boulder problem, then heading up to a pin and then rightward via some incredible feature linking. Navigate slightly left towards the clifftop. You can protect your second (if cleaning on top rope) by placing a piece in a boulder on top of the cliff or possibly slinging a tree with a high directional, then continue over to the mushroom anchor, clip and lower. Incredible slab climb!

One of the very best climbs of the grade at the New. Continuously difficult. Use longer slings at the bottom roof to avoid rope drag higher up. Save your strength and #1 and #2 cams for the crux up top. Some spectacular whippers from the very last moves have been seen.

Concertina is a hidden classic.  When viewing it from the ground it's evident that it has good rock, but what you cant see is its wild selection of handholds.  Get on this route to experience a truly unique blend of bubbly pocket  jugs and tiny positive sidepulls.  The climbing is close to vertical which allows for some improbable balancy moves.  Numerous cruxes pop up on this route with the final one coming at the last bolt.  At this point decide whether to go left or right and then hang on for the remaining easy runout to the chains.  A positive attitude and a good brain will prove to be your greatest assets on this thinking mans route.

Start from the top of a block.  A stick clip is not needed, you can easily reach the first bolt from the top of the block.  Start by climbing up and right using flakes to reach an excellent jug and the second bolt(crux).  Follow the extremely positive holds the entire way to the top.  The 6th bolt is quite a ways from the 5th bolt, but the climbing here is the easiest section on the climb.  Overall, this is a lighter 11c, just move fast.  This route might be a bit harder for shorter folks.  The rock and the moves are much more pleasing than might appear from the ground!

The Beast in Me will certainly make you conjure up your inner animal.

The climbing starts off easy enough, but slowly builds in tempo as you reach the crux. Start by working up good holds to a flake. Layback up the flake using some smeary feet until you reach the stance below the route's only bolt. Breathe a sigh of relief knowing that this fixed protection will keep you safe as you get gnarled by the boulder problem above.

Be ready to snarl, clinch, and claw your way up the next 10 feet until you reach a jug which marks the end of the crux. If you've made it here clean you should have no problem hanging on for the next 15 feet of 5.10 climbing.

Climb the slab offwidth dihedral utilizing mainly stems and laybacking.

Climb the overhanging rock following cracks and horizontals past a small roof and up a face to the top.  The route was originally lead on gear, but was accidentally retro-bolted.  Great moves, strong lead if done trad.

This is a classic and historic pitch. Bolted by two visiting Frenchmen in 1988 (and flashed by Scott Franklin the following year), this was the NRG's first 8a.

Start right at a low roof, and climb engaging face sequences until trending left by way of a large flake (keep going left for Coal Train 5.14a). Standing up on a jug and moving back right at the fourth bolt is the frustratingly devious technical crux (standing on the eyebolt here makes this climb an ultra classic 5.12c A0, seriously!). After the crux you've got 9 or 10 more bolts of engaging 5.12 climbing.

Thuggish start, great middle portion, and intricate roof pull to the final headwall. Rope drag can be an issue.

This long face climb climbs a super prominent buttress overlooking the New River Gorge, with the classic Supercrack (5.9) to its right and the new school trad headpoint Gun Control (13c) to the left. The only thing that mars Gun Club is that many folks consider its aggrevating crux– with delicate feet and sequential holds– to be the least pleasant part of the climb. It is also possible (if you wish to be subjected to justifiable ridicule) to take the "Gun Show Loophole" and traverse over to Supercrack, avoiding the entire crux. Above the crux is glorious 11+ climbing that will keep you pumped and thinking.

On a historical side note, Dan Osman soloed this ultra-insecure route in 1991. The story goes that Dan worked the crux on a short leash, never really dialing in the sequence perfectly. The next day, with friends and cameras in tow, he set out to solo the climb. Maybe the sun drenched wall, maybe his nerves, or perhaps the reality and severity of such a serious solo got the best of him, and he began to verbally doubt himself, telling his buddies that he wasn't sure he wanted to go through with it while hanging out at the sun-drenched stance just below the crux. After being encouraged not to go for it and to climb back down, the sun went behind a cloud, Danno fired the crux, and took the free solo to the top.

Steep climbing that starts under low roof. Climb up and right past four bolts.

This is a great crack climb.  I would recommend this for someone breaking into the 5.10 grade as the gear is good and the crux is low to the ground.  Start by climbing a thin finger crack.  Continue up the crack as it widens to hand size.  There are several really good holds in the crack as you proceed.  The top can be a bit dirty depending on the time of year and recent rains.

This route is a great intro for offwidth climbing.  Climb the squeeze chimney to the top.  It can be a bit dirty inside, but this does not really affect the climbing.  About 20 Ft. below the top, there are several variations to the finish as the crack split to the right or straight up.  Straight up appears to be the easiest finish, with very large gear for protection.  The right crack can be made more difficult by exiting the chimney at the first opportunity(G gear).

Loud noise is a bit off the beaten path, but well worth doing.  Its a long pitch with widely spaced bolts and numerous cruxy sections.  The most difficult moves come in the first four bolts.  Be prepared for some long lock offs, and tenuous footwork on slippery stone.  The route meanders quite a bit through here.  Once past the fourth bolt the climbing eases and the stone gets grittier.  Tip toe through the airy finish on coarse orange and black stone.  Unlike most of the face climbs at the NRG, this route does not force you to do a nasty top out on lichen covered slopers.  The first ascensionists were kind enough to place the anchor bolts 10 feet below the rim, sparing future climbers of the grovel.

The bolts are kind of rusty on this thing so you might want to avoid the route if this concerns you.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 7) Thunder Buttress