p1:  climb a right facing crack to an intersection with a small roof.  Look for this rather improbable step up to gain the easier climbing above the bulge.  Go straight up, the crux, clipping a fixed pin.  Traverse right to a stance near a bush. 

  p2:  short pitch to establish an anchor near a crack system in the middle of the face. 

  p3:  a long pitch up cracks, climb discontinuous cracks until one can climb a long right to left crack system. 

  p4:  another short pitch near the top of the climb.  Follow weaknesses on left to the shoulder of Aces' Face, aiming for a notch above or go out right for cleaner face climbing, one old bolt (perhaps a couple of 5.9 moves) to the belay.

Jokers Wild

Jokers Not Wild?

We thought this was Jokers Wild based on the old Southwestern Mountaineers topo               

Topo from around 1980 compiled by Southwest Mountaineers.

 but apparently it is not. Nonetheless, it is a good, well-protected route on excellent rock, worth repeating.

 P1 (40ft, 5.7?): Climb directly up a finger crack to the small tree above. You can also scramble up a ledge heading up/right (low 5th), then angle back left (3rd class) toward the tree. Gear anchor in crack just left of the small tree.

 P2 (80ft, 5.6): Traverse directly left from the small tree toward the big tree with old webbing around it. This starts on a slab with somewhat hidden pro at first (small cams), then turns into a interesting, rather exposed sideways traverse under a small roof (big cams) until a step up gains the ledge with the big tree. Tree anchor.

 Note: P1-2 could be pretty easily connected, especially if you brought 2 ropes to help reduce drag.

 P3 (100ft, 5.7+):  Step out left of the tree and onto the main face of Ace's Face, which has been hidden from sight thus far. Navigate upward on a system of cracks (nuts useful) until the angle eases a bit and larger ledges are reach. Gear anchor in cracks.

 P4 (180ft, 5.9): Locate a fist-width weakness in the roof above and follow cracks to it. Pulling over the roof is the crux of the route, fortunately well-protected. After that, follow cracks upward to the top and build a gear anchor.

A clean, northwest facing face about 250 feet high with steep but featured rock of good quality at a consistent angle. The features diminish higher up. Cracks are common but may need cleaning up, as traffic is minimal to nonexistent due to a difficult approach.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Ace's Face