Trad climb that passes a bolt about half way up. A little chossy in the final crack section. No anchor yet.

Little Black Book

Mojo

Stepchild

Keepin' It Real

Black Attack

Jug a Low

Chalk Troll

jesus jugs

Oaksterdam

Fat Lip Dip

Ride the Snake

Joycone

Praylord finish

Up the 9

Control Freak

Ball Sports

Runaway Train

Crazy Fool

Sun Shower

All Natural

Freedom of the Hills

Steep Treats

Dish Network

Choir Boy

Quannum

Riot Act

The Coxspel

Sporting the Line

Oak Wild

The Biz NAZ

The Wanker Rail

Man for the Job

Red Dream

Fir Real

An unfinished, open project featuring a severe unclimbed crux in the beginning of the dihedral followed by incredible hard stemming to the anchor. This climb is not yet bolted because no one has been able to do the crux section.

Varied crack climb with no anchor. Scramble down off right.

A stepped route with multiple cruxes on beautiful rock. Starts with three, steep slab, boulder problem steps followed by a pretty stemming dihedral with a couple steps of it's own.

David kept it real going for the onsight F.A. He didn't make it, but confirmed the need for bolts for the entire route. Cool slab leads to steeper rock and then the crux - a powerful long reach over the bulge followed by an insecure pinch move. Excellent stemming up the final dihedral. This one requires finesse and power.

Same start as Ride the Snake, but moves right after the initial crux and follows the crack in the middle of a large curving black streak. One bolt links crack features. After a technical section past the bolt, climb perfect steep hands to the anchor. A little sharp...may want to tape.

A wandering trad pitch featuring a large roof at the top.

The Chalk Troll is a classic boulder problem located in a cave along the base of the wall. Start sitting down and climb out the bulging overhang on excellent pinches. A difficult long move guards the final jug. Top out then down climb back to the jug and drop off. So far, this is the most difficult climb completed at Oaklands.

This route might be the friendliest dacite crack around. The route begins with 9 ft. Of jug pulling on a face which brings you to the beautiful hand crack in the dihedral. As you climb up the ever widening crack enjoy the awesome jams and jugs. Pull up onto the block and place a few interesting pieces before busting the crux move up the left leaning crack. Finish by topping out.

Crack with small pine tree in the start leads to a nice fingercrack finish.

A route with Jackel and Hyde demeanor. Begin up easy (Jackel) hand crack until it vanishes leaving a steep headwall.  The next three bolts contain the crux (Hyde). Move up good edges until you can reach the calcified holds that lead to a great rest in a giant pocket. Finish the route by firing out overhanging jugs (Jackel) and into the finishing crack to the anchors.

A pretty line up a varied crack system. Funky off the deck to a hand crack crux, then a little more burl at the end. A bit sharp at times. Tape is recommended for maximum enjoyment.

Joycone begins with some cool moves through a short dihedral and finishes on a very aesthetic arete feature - the Joycone. The arete section is short, but hosts some of the best holds and moves at the cliff. Be sure to take in the view while topping out.

Praylord is an alternate finish to jesus jugs.  Climb jesus jugs until you can bust up and out of the dihedral using the crack in the left wall.  Continue up and left into the obvious finned wide crack.

A difficult boulder problem crux past two bolts in an open dihedral leads to a great crack with good but tricky protection.

Climbs the dihedral to the right of Quannum arete and finishes at the same anchor. Excellent technical stemming through the dihedral that never lets up. Be sure to stretch.

Ball Sports climbs a 30 foot dihedral set 35 feet off the deck. Climb dirty, slabby crack to a ledge at the base of the corner, or climb the first 4 bolts of All Natural. Place some good directionals and climb 5.10 up to the crux - a body stem off a palm smear. Burly crux moves with tricky pro. Props to John Crawley for getting this one done with fearless determination.

A good sport route that follows a seam and beautiful rock through three distinct cruxes.

Crazy Fool follows a curving seam past a distinct crux in the middle. A neat slabby section in the start delivers you to a stance with some sweet underclings below the crux. Unlock the sequence and enjoy some fun climbing to the anchor.

A short warm-up on gorgeous stone. A water streaked slab followed by a stem dihedral. Would be 3 or 4 stars if it were twice as long.

4 bolts up a neat slab lead to a ledge and a beautiful red and green face set between two clean aretes. Begin on the left arete from a block resting on the ledge and climb up and right, finishing in the cool hanging dihedral that forms high on the face. Excellent holds and movement on this one. Another must do for the area.

A good, long, moderate line with quality rock and a surprising steep finish on great holds.

Climb up and over a crimpy face to a slab.  At the top of the slab lies an obtuse overhanging dihedral marked by spaced out gastons and tips pods. Power through this section to another great rest. Finish up a orange refrigerator block side-pulling away.

Dish Network is all about a large dish set 30 feet off the ground on a steep bulge. A great section of steep pulling off the ground leads to a ledge and the Dish above. 2 or 3 seconds of bouldering power gets you past the dish. From a ledge climb up another section of rock past 2 bolts to the anchor.

An obvious right leaning roof of perfect hand jams and exciting 5.8 footwork. Once you turn the corner it is some wide crack and jugs to the top.

A short, black and tan arete accessed by a few bolts of easier climbing. Miniscule, sharp holds define the crux. Recently broken - a new ascent is needed to confirm a grade.

Easy start can be soloed or gear can be found. Above the break climb thin technical crimps over the bulge.  Continue up face steeper finish.

Simply put.  This route is SICK! The Line shares the start of Jug a Low.  Instead of continuing straight up bust right into stellar looking overhung crack.  Enjoy hand friendly rock, fantastic holds and a whole lot of pump up the steep crack.  Keep moving until you reach the final stem when the crack becomes less steep.  The final feet of the climb rely on stemming and power to pull the finishing moves topping out the cliff.

Good fun climbing leads around an offset dihedral, followed by a steep featured headwall with a seam splitting the middle. Just when you think  you have found a moderate... a stinger of a crux guards the chains. Good route.

CURRENTLY A TOP ROPE. YET TO BE BOLTED. Start up the dihedral till you can stand on the ledge below the small roof. Move out the roof to the one hold in the dihedral. Get creative with your smearing knee/body barring to reach the semi cleaned vertical seam. Get a knee bar and rest on the jug. Here move right to the big pocket out right. Continue up bulge on cool side pulls till you can throw for the big flat edges. This marks the end of the hard. Move up last ten feet of cool holds to finish.

Climb a nice 5.10 start, beginning with an interesting move before the first clip. Approach the Wanker Rail with a devious sequence of hand switches on the arete, avoiding the urge to pull up and right into Man For the Job. This section may feel contrived, but the Rail needed to be climbed. Clip the crux bolt and stay low on good feet and small crimps, then creep up left on the Wanker Rail with some hidden holds way out left. Pimp the rail past another bolt to a ledge, finish up the slabby dihedral.

Man for the Job shares the Wanker Rail start, with a 5.10 move before the first bolt. *****If you can't figure out how to get on the Wanker Rail before bailing to the ledge, then Man For the Job allows you to still make it to the top and to an anchor so you can get your draws down. And that's about it.***** After the third bolt, climb up to the good stance and follow the arete for a few moves. Gain a ledge and do a little boulder problem - the crux - to another ledge. Plug in a small cam or two and finish on steep, juggy crack features. This route is a hodgepodge of features separated by slabby ledges that really needed a clean, straight, uncomplicated  rope line to connect them and balance out the chaotic nature of the line. Geek out!

Great sport climb up a red arete. A must do for the area.

Starts at a little fir tree below the obvious right facing overhanging corner.  Crank straight up next to the tree through the low 11 stuff, then over a little butt puckering slab bulge to the base of the corner.  Burl down or finess your way up the good holds throught the corner and end at a golden jug.  Now feel good. Clip the last bolt and do a couple 7ish hand jams to the anchors.  Another quality addition to this stacked section of Oaklands.

Oaklands is a 60-80 foot, south facing, dacite cliff on the western side of Elden. The area is named after the abundant oak trees that grow along the south facing slope of the gully. The routes follow visually pleasing cracks, seams, dihedrals and aretes. There are some pure cracks and several sport climbs, with a few mixed routes as well. Like other dacite areas the climbing is vertical, technical, and often bouldery with generally small, heavily textured, holds. Oaklands is a warm, south facing cliff, so the cooler months of fall offer the best climbing conditions.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Oaklands