The signature tough sport climb at Leda, Jody's Route has an interesting background.  According to local climbers, Jody Evans had his eye on this line and planned to do the first ascent, but never got around to it.  Instead, the two Chrises (Gibson and Willis) bolted it ground up on lead.  So Leda old-timers call it The Chris' Route (plural, not possessive).  Most people who climb here, however, don't know this obscure history, so Jody's Route it is. 

  This excellent and aesthetic route has a tough, bouldery start, so stick-clipping is wise.  Power through the start and past the first bolt, then up the steep face to a reachy crux.  Passing this, the climb ends with some fun roof moves, which are pumpy but actually not quite as hard as the rest of the route.

Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route)

Godhead

Oh So Sweet

Good and Plenty

Knock on Rock

The Grail Saga

Varmint

Smoke

Psychotic Reaction

Immortal Altar

Cumberland Blues

[Redacted]

Chip Away

Temple of Doom

Without Excuse

Land of Choss

GumbEE

The One and Lonely

Walk By Me

The Future lies here

Fanfair

Speedway Boogie

House of Giza

Vogen Slab

My Little Patina

Optimus Prime

One More Time

University Route

Bone-Yard PickN

Eagle Wings

Girls Only

Bethany

Margin Walker

Ancient of Days

Cracked Actor

Lolita's Deluge

Relapse

Ox Crack

Old Foot

Playground Medley

One Percent

Gotten Goat

Brass Monkey

Blood Covenant

Lock Down

Sims Route

Anubis

Free to Think

TJ's Demise

An awkward start gets you past the initial overhang and established in the corner. Continue up the corner/crack, working around a series of small overhangs. There are bolted anchors below the final overhang. 

  (The topout above the anchors is mediocre, very chossy, and not recommended.)

Hike past Bethany for two minutes to an area with only two bolted climbs. Climb the right side of the roof feature. Stick clip recommended for the first bolt. 

This recently-established trad line is a real gem.  Thin face climbing that has just enough pro to avoid an R rating leads to a series of roofy moves for an exciting finish.  The route got its name from a blackberry bush in full fruit that the FA encountered on a ledge about halfway up. 

  Starts just left of a wide crack in a left-facing dihedral (the crack is off route).  Follow the face up to a small ledge; pull a roof, followed by a reachy overhang, followed by another small roof (beware of dirty holds) and on to the top, finishing at a pine tree.

A bouldery start on crimpy holds makes this a really tough climb to get off the ground.  Rumor is that a key hold has broken off, which might explain the laughably sandbagged 5.7 DCA rating. 

  Starting below an overhanging arete, claw your way up on thin holds to somewhat easier ground.  Stick-clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended.  If you can't make the bouldery start, the right face of the arete is a somewhat easier alternative.  Follow the arete, then trend right to finish on the Walk By Me anchors.

Stick clipping the first bolt ain't a bad idea...  Climb thin edges up and left to an arete.  Work the arete up to an overlap.  Climb through the overlap using edges, pockets and flakes until the climbing turns balancy before clipping the anchors to finish.

Start at a white round arete and climb up through a roof past three bolts.  Head right past fixed draws to a block with a two finger pocket.  Pull this and head for a glue in bolt and a nice ledge and rest.  Face climb past two more bolts to the anchor

This fun climb earns its 5.10 rating for its thin face moves midway up.  The name Smoke supposedly came as a result of a fire starting in the backpack of the person who put up the route. 

  Starting on the right side of a V-shaped recess in the wall, move through easy jugs in a cave-like formation.  Puzzle your way up a mostly blank face, then to easier ground and a small roof to the top.

The route follows two red fixed draws through the roof up high. Start near arete on white rock. Follow straight up, aiming for the first red fixed draw. Jug on to the second red draw. A big throw to the chalked jug on the lip will get you on your way to the two-bolt anchor on the face above.

Scramble up a boulder and then pull a big mantle move and continue up a rather boring face to anchors.

Work past a couple of bolts through a odd sequence that uses shallow pockets and underclings to a rest.  Then work right and up past horizontals.  While climbing this route one winter and reaching said horizontals, I was surprised by the sharp prick I felt after sticking my hand in said horizontal.  After regaining my composure and standing up to look into the pocket, I saw a small bat.  Quickly, I checked my finger...no blood - good, no puncture - good, horizontal - about a 1.5 friend - good.  Finish up to the anchors. 

  (no bats were harmed in the climbing of this route)

A short but tough route. As usual, a no feet start as is the norm for the routes at the far left of Leda proper.  A burly, bouldery start at the first bolt up to the second, accomodating a nice undercling shakeout. Thin up to the third bolt and then another crux just before a moderate roof pull. Runout to the anchors or place a medium cam to take the edge off. Stickclip at the first bolt may be a wise decision if you are not a solid V4 boulderer.

Start under a roof following a thin crack that varies to the right. It is wise to stick clip the first bolt.

Bravely climb off the ledge out the roof. Hard for the grade.

Hike two minutes past Bethany to an area with only two bolted climbs. Involves some bushwhacking. Climb the left side of the roof feature. Basically, two little boulder problems on a rope. 

This is an ok route that you can try if you want to get into offwidths. This routes big brother is One More Time. Start to the left of Cumberland Blues and fire straight up the offwidth finding marginal pro on the way up. When you meet the roof traverse left and finish on the same anchors as Walk By Me. This route should only be lead by an experienced leader(~5.9); Not good for a first time lead as a fall could be really bad. Extremely dirty in some places but could be cleaner with more repeats. youtu.be/ISgPzgaBb8o

Go get you some of this Leda 6. Worth the walk for the beginner...nice, easy slab climbing.

Follow a thin crack and then traverse left at horizontal. Continue up a flake to top.

Featured slab sprinkled with a few horizontal ledges along the way.

Pull and rail up a flake on a bulge to a stance and clip the first bolt.    Fun pockets and flakes lead to anchors at the top. 

NOTE: this route is erroneously listed in the Chatt Steel guidebook as "Last Crusade."

This may be the nicest moderate sport route at Leda.  From a crack climbing start to balancy face moves, it's a fun challenge all the way. 

  Starting at an obvious crack just left of a small arete, use hand jams or layback to work your way up to a welcome huge jug just under the very high first bolt.  Stick clipping may make the strenuous start more mentally bearable; there's also great gear placements in the crack.  Continue up the face with crimps and reachy incuts to a ledge at the top. 

  As with many other Leda routes, the DCA rating of 5.7 is a bit of a sandbag. 

NOTE: this route is erroneously listed in the Chatt Steel guidebook as "Disdain Campaign."

A nice 5.9 with a tricky start that makes stick clipping the first bolt a wise choice. 

  Starting below an arete, pull the overhanging start and continue to the top on the right face. 

NOTE:  this route is erroneously listed in the Chatt Steel guidebook as "Come as You Are."

This is a great route to warm up on. Starts in front of a large tree. Work up some crimpy moves to slopers. Finish on some crimps or throw your leg up over ledge and pull.

Tough, balancy climbing on thin layers of "patina" crimpers over the rock face, My Little Patina never really lets up.  See if you can avoid leaning back against the tree halfway up. 

  Starting at a sharp arete, climb the face right of the arete.

follow a right facing corner past a series of roofs then up & a little right to anchors.

This is one of the most fun routes in Leda and offers a very different style of climbing! Start with a squeeze chimney / offwidth using some funky techniques like chicken wings and fist stacks as you battle the offwidth up to a nice rest ledge, then continue up the chimney system. When you meet the roof traverse to the right placing a #5 above you if want the extra protection and to protect from a pendulum fall. The route finishes on the same anchors as smoke. #7 and #6 C4 are necessary. This would be a 4 star climb if it was frequented more often and was cleaner. https://youtu.be/s9ERTRLLKlE

For aspiring leaders enrolled in Climbing 101, University Route should be on the curriculum.  This short, easy line makes a great first sport lead. 

  Starting at the base of a small rock outcropping above the main trail, climb the face clipping bolts as you go to finish at the anchors.

Very fun route and an excellent addition to Leda.Not to be missed. Starts off just a bit thin left of TJ's Demise and meanders a bit left and right of bolt line. Long moves and lock offs to slopey jugs makes this a fun lead and exciting lead. Enjoy.

Climb a fun orange face to an intimidating roof.    ChattSteel has this route in the wrong order and also lists it as a 10a. As with most routes at LEDA left a stick clip is recommended.

This is an excellent face climb, calling for balance and good footwork.  Crimpy holds and long reaches down low give way to slightly easier climbing with better holds as you move up to the top.

Long pull over low roof then left of second roof and up slab to open shuts   Edit: All slab

Look for the arete with weird rock.  Climb the arete, left then right, until a small overlap.  Pull around and left and climb to the anchors.

A boulder problem with bolts. Stick clip the first bold and muscle through a big move and then face several big awkward moves before you gain the anchors.As with most routes at LEDA left a stick clip is recommended.

Probably the nicest trad line at Leda.  Great pro all the way makes some of the dicey moves more mentally bearable. 

  Start as for Free to Think, bouldering up through the juggy roof to a ledge.  Move left to the obvious crack in the left face; follow this feature as it turns into a short, awkward off-width.  After negotiating the off-width, continue up the thinning finger crack, saving some reserves for a juggy but pumpy roof move at the finish.

Starts the same as Chip Away. Once out of the roof (crux), head left up the face. Has great moves coming out of the roof. Good route if Jody's Route is not open.

Climb a thin crack up then traverse left aiming for the arete.  Hit the arete and work up, passing the overhang on your right.  Finish up the face to anchors.

The climbing on Ox Crack might seem hard right off the ground but after a few awkward moves bomber hand jams appear.  Follow the crack up and then left to a ramp.  Next head right and out under a roof before stepping up to the anchors.

Begins at rounded arete.  Tricky moves through a small bulge lead to thin slabby climbing.

Start at a low roof with a hand crack.  Fire the roof via the crack and anything else that will work...crimps, heel hooks, toe cams, etc... to a stance.  Long moves lead to good horizontals and easier climbing.  Probably wise to stick clip the first bolt.

Climb a slopey face to an interesting roof encounter.  Pull this roof, crimp some crimps, rest and puzzle through the deceptive finish.  Don't pump off the last moves.

Short crimpy slab. Don't be fooled by the rating on the topo. This route was first rated a 5.12a. Now it is listed in the books as a 5.10b. Thus the 5.11- rating here.

Same start as Varmit on rounded white rock but moving strong left at third bolt, runout with positive holds to 4th bolt and finish up on the left side of the arete and over the roof.

Throw your way up the bolder to a "horizontal" rest.Stank up and continue up the moderate face to open shuts.

A very thin start on a seam and small crimpers leads to a great horizontal, long moves lead to a hueco and a good rest.  Next up - slopers.  Climb these to good rest and finish it up.  Enjoy!

Climb good holds up to roof. After getting past the crux climb a face of small holds. 

Straight up. Good route for new aspiring leaders on positive edges. May be a little wet at the top on a couple of holds but they are too good to worry about.  This is my alternative when the other 5.7's are taken to warm up on.

One of the relatively few trad lines at Leda, Free to Think is short but fun and well-protected. 

  Starting at an obvious corner below a ledge, boulder past a chockstone through an overhang to the ledge.  Move left and follow the crack in the corner using good jams and stemming.  The route ends at ring anchors on a shallow ledge, which is the starting point for a harder sport climb (Temple of Doom).

The route starts on the mentioned chalky flake before pulling a roof and slabbing your way to some horizontals.

Convenient location, easy approach, nice rock, a mix of trad and sport climbs -- what more could you want from a climbing destination?  Well . . . in the case of Leda -- longer routes and more of them.  But this little roadside crag is still a worthwhile destination when you have limited time or T-Wall is closed for hunting. 

  Like other crags in the Chattanooga area, Leda is a sandstone cliff. The rock quality is mostly very good, and a nice variety of routes can be found here.  Many of these are sport lines, with a number of easy routes ideal for the climber making his or her first lead.  Probably the most popular route at Leda is Jody's Route, also known as Chris' Route, an outstanding 5.10c/d either way, you choose to call it. 

  There's also enough good trad climbing at Leda to make bringing your rack worthwhile.  Nice routes to scope out include Ox Stone Crack (5.8+) and Cracked Actor (5.10). 

  Leda is on privately-owned land, and a one-time liability waiver is required.  A short distance along the trail is a climbers kiosk placed by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, where you can find the form to fill out and deposit in a holding box. 

Editor's note on ratings:  My experience of climbing at Leda is that many, if not most, of the easy to moderate routes are harder than the grade in the DCA.  In some cases, I've taken the liberty of giving these routes ratings that I think are more in line with what you'll encounter at other local crags such as T-Wall or Foster Falls; in each case, I've also listed the rating given in the book.  Anyone who disagrees with this rating method is welcome to contact me, or better yet, give it your own consensus rating.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Leda