Awesome route that I think is worthy of a few stars.  Really nice corner climbing and finger locks. Sustained, but with nice stances.

Slightly dirty, with good spider potential, but very high-quality.

Good rain day option if you want to hike a rack to Endless in the rain.

Back in the Saddle

Stealth N' Magic

Eat My Dust

Exoduster

'Bout Time

Party Till Yer Blind

The Plug

Mental Wings

Smooth Operator

Techman

Biohazard

Plyometrics

Modern Primitive

Pocket Pussy

Freaky Stylee

Autumn Fire

Manute Bol

Diversity in Microcosm

Chouinard-Steck Variation

Crimes of Flashin'

Stim-O-Stam

Harbinger Scarab

Premarital Bliss

Party in My Mind

S'more Energy

Through the Never

Party All the Time

The Sweetest Taboo

Harbinger Scarab is one of the best of the grade at the New River Gorge, but it doesn't receive many attempts, probably because it requires the placement of a couple pieces of gear. The route follows an obvious line up a pillar, out an eight foot roof, then up the steep headwall to the top of the cliff.

Begin ten feet left of the bolt line and make your way up and right through a selection of good hidden hand holds. Two small cams should get you safely to the first bolt. I recommend clipping the first bolt, down climbing and then cleaning the second cam to reduce rope drag. Continue up the double arête feature on consistently good sidepulls. Get a nice restful stance at the base of the roof and do your best to decipher the cryptic sequence. This crux can feel anywhere between V3 and V6 depending on the quality of your beta. After overcoming the initial difficulties of the roof campus out and easily clip the bolt around the lip. It's nice to have a bit of a tight belay here as there is some potential to land in a sharp tree.

Rest up at the base of the headwall and then get ready to race through 30 feet of long aggressive moves. There are a couple of nice rests in the last couple bolts. You'll want to conserve energy for the off balance pocketed crux just below the anchor. This is a really long pitch so don't screw it up on the last move!

Expect the headwall to be a little dirty and adventurous. The route gets morning shade.

Everything you could ask for in a 12+ face climb at Endless. Burl your way through the powerful crux down low, finesse (or grovel) through a unique technical crux up high, and keep it together for one more reeeach at the end. Don't expect a gimme, but you are certain to feel accomplished after ticking this one! Used to be the same grade as Techman, which seems like some sort of cruel joke.

I can't think of a reason why this route doesn't deserve four stars, maybe because it's stuck in the corner? It's at least as good as Freaky Stylee. Get on it!

Clip the bolt next to the shuts on Exoduster.  Make a dyno to 2 good crimps and traverse left out around the roof.  Gain a stance and traverse back right to reach the next bolt.  A small cam (blue or green alien size) can be placed in the horizontal in the roof to reduce the fall potential before clipping the bolt above the roof.  Climb straight up using very small crimps and making good use of an interesting diagonal sloping ledge, very unique climb for the New.   This climb is pretty sustained for the grade and the top portion is a bit dirty.  It's surprising that this extension doesn't see more traffic given the popularity of Exoduster.

This route stays dry, which as NRG climbers know is very rare for a climb of this grade.

This climb is popular and it deserves it.

Climb the face up pockets to a thin rail you have to layback and do a long move up to a crimp and continue up easier ground to the anchors.

If you enjoy fighting your way up the wall on nasty crimps and small feet then this is the route for you! This route starts just left of Diversity Micro 5.9 and is 4 bolts of thin slab. Making your way to the 3rd bolt is the crux but the second half of the climb is no gimme. Tougher slab than Ruchert Motion and Diamond Life but shorter.

Like the other Party routes, this one is quality. Starts ten feet left of arête and boulder up then traverse right onto arête. Follow arête passing bolt mid-way up to ledge, then link up with top of Party In My Mind (5.10b) and finish on anchors at top.

Easy TR after Party In My Mind or TR from cliff top overlook. Anchors are just below the cliffs lip but be sure to tie into something before leaning over the edge. Rap down or hike around.

Start on the face left of Autumn Fire crack, just right of the arete. Work up and around the arete to gain a pocket and good rest. Continue up the face on thin moves to a good ledge.

Finish over the ledge, then traverse left to shared anchor with Pocket Pussy.

This quality line follows an arching bolt line right of Through the Never.  Stick-clip the first bolt, and figure out a way to get off the ground.  Clip the third bolt, and begin the crux unlocking process!  Unlikely feet, balance-y underclings, and killer two-finger pockets get you to a lay-down rest at half height.  A couple mantle moves lead to enjoyable 5.10 climbing to the shuts.

Like fist jamming? If so, this route's for you. Ease into crack from right, commence jamming, and be ready to place gear (somewhat slick here). Beyond fistcrack (crux), work up to flaring pod utilizing generous horizontals and ledges. At large chockstone, move out left onto face and up left-leaning crack/flake. Layback and jam to top!

Listed in Williams guidebook as Mantek Iron-Crete.

Tenuous moves on small holds between good rests. Joins with Freaky Stylee at the last bolt.

Very fun jamming (hands in double cracks!) and stemming. Beautiful orange corner.  In order to get the full value 5.10a rating, traverse from the anchors at the top of the corner to the undercling flake.  It's possible to lower off of the anchors of Fascist Architecture down and right.  If you end at the anchors in the corner, the route is 5.8.

Bonkers movement on totally unique features, Plyometrics will have you jumping, stretching, and/or generally getting your freak on for five bolts (and one piece) up a diagonally-trending line.  Long moves to good holds get you to the second bolt, where you can rest up, survey the situation, and begin to strategize just how you're gonna make it from pocket to pocket.  Use a giant reach or some technical shenanigans to get to the juggy letterbox after the forth bolt, where you can get a good shake and bomber gear (yellow Metolius/.3ish, orange MC, or both), and where you can plan for the cruxy final moves to good holds and the last bolt of Modern Primitive.  Very fun. This route might prove frustrating for shorter folks.

Good rainy day route.

Climb up some easier moves to reach the 2nd bolt.  Climbing increases in difficulty as you clip the 3rd bolt.  From here, there appears to be two ways to do the crux.  Straight up uses very thin edges to some okay pockets to reach a good hold above the 4th bolt.  Alternately, you can do the crux moves around the bolt on thin edges and a small pocket to reach a large hold up and left.  Once you reach the large hold it's great holds all the way back right to reach the shuts.

Although this is a short route, all of the moves will keep you thinking!   Start on the left edge of the wall climbing up using the arete to reach the first bolt.  From here traverse right to reach a great pocket.  Dyno up to reach another great hold and 3rd bolt.  From here, use small holds and shallow pockets to eventually gain a thin flake and clip the 4th bolt.  Continue straight up using a crimp or two to reach the obvious jug.  Jugs from here out to reach the ledge and shuts.

Climb up and slightly left heading for the high first bolt.  A small nut can be placed about 7 ft below the first bolt if so desired.  From the first bolt, continue straight up on mostly positive holds to reach the 4th bolt.  After clipping the 4th bolt, traverse right over the bolt and thin holds and then head up to the 5th bolt.  Shake out here!  From here, head straight up using crimps and good footwork to eventually reach a great horizontal (crux).  Easy climbing from here to the shuts.  Although there are only 5 bolts, all of the hard moves are done right near the bolts.  The crux sequence shares the finish (and last bolt) with Techman.  Awesome route!

This wall is one of the first at Endless to get sun.

Undisputed Classic.

It is a flaring right facing corner that turns into a hand crack-layback. Two sectioned crack on quality rock. Bottom half stays dry after rain but top may not.

Try to onsight it, it'll be awesome.

Follow the crack system to an overhang.  Pass the overhang on the right and follow corners to the top.  From the overhang on, this route may be a bit dirty, but the hardest moves are over.  This is a great overlooked line.  If you've done the obvious classics in the area, give this a go.  You won't be disappointed.

A splitter hand crack leads to a left arching wide pod chimney.  Traverse left and lower from shuts on 'Bout Time.  You can continue to the top (5.6R I think), but the best part is the obvious first 40 Ft.

Variation:  Climb the clean dihedral that is overhanging, move into a flared alcove (look inside for gear). Hand-traverse the scary look rock to a big comfy ledge, place pro, continue up the left facing dihedral to another off-hands crack above.

Most people skip the R rated version, and do the variation.

Climb the 1st couple bolts of S'more Energy.  Get through the lower dihedral then make a left following a new line of bolts till it joins the top part of Mental Wings. The linkup moves are a little forced.

Once you start clip mental wings bolts, try to figure the right way to top it out.

The crux is a couple moves below the roof.

This is a nice route and provides a good warm up for the other sport routes to the right.  Start by traversing in from the start of Freaky Stylee or start directly by pulling through the overhang directly below the first bolt.  The first bolt is about 25 ft up, but a small cam can be placed about 10 ft below the bolt if so desired.  From the 1st bolt, climb up some thin face moves.  The crux is approaching the 3rd bolt and leaving the 3rd bolt.  From the 4th bolt continue up the face and eventually head left to gain access to the arete.  Once on the arete, follow jugs to the shuts.  This route is not sustained.  The crux may be harder for shorter folks.

This wall is one of the first at Endless to get sun.

Climb the cracks in the left facing corner until you are about level with the Exoduster shuts 10 Ft. to the left(5.8).  Continue up and right over some easy but interestingly featured rock to gain a right facing corner.  Follow the corner to the roof and traverse right about 10 Ft. to the shuts.  On rainy days, the first half of this climb stays dry and you can traverse left to the shuts on Exoduster.

Most people traverse up and right to finish on the anchors of Through the Never.  This traverse is rumored to be heady, and has been the site of some dramatic falls.

Climb the steep face to the bolt.  Diagonal up slightly left and then slightly right.  The wall is steeper than it appears.  Good gear for most of the climb, but it gets a bit sparse near the top; but the climbing gets easier.

Start by climbing the orange face, heading away from the crack of Manute Bol.  Continue up to a great stance where you clip the 2nd bolt.  At this point, if you dare to use the loose hold, the move can be made much easier, but you can certainly do without it.  Once you gain the 3rd bolt, head up and right, pull the small roof and gain a large ledge to rest on.  From the ledge, traverse left passing a bolt and aim for a small overhang.  Pull this overhang and continue up the white face.  The crux moves are reaching the pin which lies about 7 ft below the anchors.  Very nice climbing with good rests!

Although only given two stars in Williams' guidebook, I thought this was a great pitch on great rock, with some of the ubiquitous amazing NRG holds and interesting moves throughout.

Stick-clip the first bolt and embark on hard moves immediately. A very hard crux utilizing a very unique hold takes you past the second bolt and into "mellower" climbing. One more, much easier crux on awesome rock takes you past the last bolt to the anchor.

Boulder up to a stance and clip the one lone bolt...yes my friends you have now entered the trad zone.  Launch your way up, easing a touch to the left and a touch to the right climbing past edges, horizontals, slopers and a few pockets - placing gear where you see it.  About mid way up the pump clock starts ticking...punch it and get over the slight bulge and aim for a ledge up near the arete.  Enjoy the last exposed moves to the anchors...nice.

This route is GOOD! If only it were longer. Begin right of Harbinger Scarab under the small roof. First moves lead to the roof where you can get a rest before moving onto the face. Getting onto the face requires a long lock-off and a little tech. A classic "rose move" starts the crux and leads you into a shouldery sloper rail. Finish the route with some compression with slick feet up the arete.

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Location

Protection

Routes in B) Party Buttress