More bulbous rock with horizontal slots for placements

Eye SPI

Unknown

Crack Puppy

Roy Davies

Double O Seven

[Redacted]

Neo-Hippie's Dubious Morality

Baby Trad

Birthday Girl

Covert Opps

Campground Vanlifer Trustafarians

Guide’s Leftest

Game Face

D.C. Memorial Face

Forgotten Anchor

SPI Hole

Right smack in the middle of the Tan Wall. Look for a glue-in eye bolt about 15' off the ground just above a small overhang to start. Continue straight up the juggy face, placing as much medium-sized pro as you want. Great chicken head to sling near the top.

Top out on a ledge to two glue-ins with c-links.

Great beginner trad lead or warmup.

Climb through one bolt to the left-most of the 3 anchors on the ledge.

The rock is better than it looks, crux is low. The first to second bolt is committing, you won't deck, make sure you have an attentive belay. Don't rush the top, it tends to stay cryptic due to lichen coverage.

Short sport route on easy terrain. Navigate your way up to the large ledge where you find access to the only bolt on the route. A couple more jug pulls finds you on top of another ledge with easy access to the two bolt anchor.

Good for a warm up, but may be a little run out for teaching a new leader.

Start at the hueco behind the tree left of Roy Davies. Climb the ledgey arete until you reach the top of the flake. Move up and right onto the rock face to finish on super easy jugs with a two bolt anchor.

Start under a roof at a breadloaf jug.  For shorter climbers, this will definitely be a jump off the ground.  Match that hold and pull through a roof, then figure out the crux pulling the second bulge.  After this, the climbing is still fun, but much, much easier to the anchor.  It's not a one move wonder, but the physical climbing is over pretty quickly.  A great short option for newish trad climbers looking for a safe but exciting challenge- or a good warmup for trad climbers that can pull the harder things in the area.

Something else that is dubious is the history of this climb. There was a fixed tat anchor at a wet spot halfway up. I took it to the top and added anchors. Another friend told me that it's at least been toproped to the top. Either way, it's worthy enough for inclusion

Follow left-facing flakes to a hueco and anchors.

Follow the mini-dihedral feature through jugs to a gently overhanging finish.

Climb jugs up the face to a short right angling crack, then straight up to the anchors.

Follow 2 bolts to the middle anchor on the ledge.

Start on the same two bolts as D.C. Memorial Face. After clipping the second bolt go left on a balancy ledge. A couple of mantles and two home-made bolts will bring you to the anchor shared with D.C. Memorial Face.

Good holds to slightly overhanging at the bolt

Fun route with some bomber moves. 1.5” mono halfway up.

Starting on the first two bolts as the Campground Vanlifer Trustafarians climb straight up the white face. Negotiate a crimpy and balancy middle section on your way to a fun finish.

Climbs better than it looks. Up past a bolt on the face, then through the short dihedral. Jugs over the roof to another bolt, then bolted anchors above

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1 Tan Wall