Climb the lumpy rock past a fixed pin and a bolt to where the rock radically changes character then up the broken dihedral to the top to the fixed anchor.

The Trembling

Monkey Moves

Lizard Locks

The Pin

Silverdycke

Introductory Offer

The Arete

This delightful route which can be seen just as you get to the base of the trail where the cliff starts (from the east trail). Step on the Lizard Locks starting Blocks, and go straight up and veer right, then climb the dihedral to get to easier ground and ease left towards the Lizard Locks rappel tree.

Start in an alcove at the SE corner of the cliff. Monkey pull through the two mini roofs following discontinuous cracks with decent pro to the 2 SS Rap hangers. Getting off the ground and out of the alcove over the 1st roof is the crux.

This is the obvious crack near the Eastern side of the wall. The start, shared by Introductory Offer, is 3 stacked blocks at head height in between 2 shallow caves. This is the opening sequence to both routes. One strategy, employed on the FA, was to boulder the loose looking lumpy blocks for 12'  (and which may in fact not be there, but on the ground or down the hill somewhere when you get there), step left 5-7 feet and then up, waiting until you're @20' off the deck and looking at a bad, testicular shrinking, fern crushing fall to place your first pro at the base of the obvious crack with a #3 friend as the first piece so that your pieces align and do not cause rope drag. Another #3 or 3-1/2" cam will avoid a highball fall and protect the move to get to the crack if you are so inclined. Small cams to 1" will get you up the solid finger and hand locks. Say hi to the Northern Alligator Lizard if he hasn't moved on yet which had casually wandered over, and stared at the first ascentionist as he cruised past. Strangly, the Lizard allowed himself to be touched as if he had actually wandered over to have his back scratched. Head up past a small 2" diameter tree growing right out of the crack; try not to break off this handhold/foothold /asscheek rest and finish up and slightly to the right of the buttress and then on easier moves directly to the huge fir with the rap anchor on it. Rap off the fir.

Just to the left of Silverdyke is another good, but short route that starts off the Silverdyke platform.

By a small tree on the Queen Elisabeth deck-like flat ledge, ascend a 20-25' short thin crack  with interesting moves at the start of the cliff you can see as you are just heading down the East side trail with a bulge.

This squeeze job between "Lizard Locks" and "Introductory Offer" was intentionally left as a toprope by the FA team of those routes, as they felt bolts on the face here would detract from the climbing of those 2 fine routes. It is, however, an excellent toprope route, and easily accessed from the top by doing one of the 2 flanking routes first, or just walking down to the anchor tree from the top.

Another nice TR version (at about 5.12) found by Kelton Rappleyea is the overhanging start just to the right of this, start by grabbing the positive hold and pulling a very hard mantel move.

Description

Protection

Routes in (9) East End Formation