This boulder is a link up between the start of Skin O' My Teeth V9 and the crux of Countdown to Extinction V10. A bit contrived, but a fun recycle move on some small sandstone holds brings you to the perfect compression section of Countdown, one of the best cruxes I've ever climbed. The goal of this line is to capture the some of the best movement on the boulder. Minus stars for it being a contrived link up, but plus stars for not having a rock at the start like Countdown.

Dystopia

Le Privett

S. H. Stonewall

Countdown To Extinction

Skin 'O My Teeth

West Nile (aka The Warmup)

Le Bernd

Le Bernd Sit

Start up the left arête of the bridge using only the arch stones for holds.  Head up and right, campus through crimps and hand bumps/matches, hit the crimp on the center keystone under the nipple, then lunge up right for the juggy hole and top out from there.

Multiple crazy hand-positions and the repeated use of a single undercling make this problem a gem. Dean Privett, the head-setter at Santa Barbara Rock Gym, loves underclings (and I do mean loves), so I coined this problem after him.

Complete awesome. Sit-start as for Le Privett, move left via a hard feet-cutting move, perform a ridiculous single hand movement, and finish on Le Bernd. Very, very hard. Named after the illustrious album by Megadeth.

Sort of the younger, less attractive but sporty brother of Countdown To Extinction. Start sitting at the jug of The Warmup, climb right into a fun crux that can be done a number of ways, and finish by topping out Le Privett. Pumpier than it looks.

The hardest easiest looking line on the boulder (if that makes sense). A decent warmup.

Stand start the prow of the boulder just right of The Warmup. Begin with left hand on sloper, and right hand on edge. Some surprisingly tricky footwork gains the top. Awesome line, and the easiest hard looking line on the boulder. Seriouslyjust looking at this thing we thought it was like V8.

Start low on jug (same as warmup V3) hit left crimp and throw big to right edge and finish as for Le Bernd.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Nile Boulder (aka The Creek Boulder)