P1. Begin next to a small birch tree and blue graffiti, climb up the prominent vertical crack that takes good gear until it narrows and approaches a bolt. Step left under the roof and traverse with some gear placements to the bolted anchor on the ledge. Big swing potential for the follower and lots of exposure on some of these moves but mostly easy climbing. 5.6PGP2. Step left off the belay and head up towards the easy slab. Make a somewhat committing mantle next to a birch tree. A #3 or #4 would have been useful here to protect this move. Step right onto a big block and continue up the slab to the bolted anchors. 5.4R

Peace and Plugging

Flight of the Manatee

The Diagonal: Right Finish

Gatekeeper

Quartz Crack

Quartz Crack Roof

Diagonal: Left Finish

Public Indecency

The Diagonal

Epicormic

Pub Crawl

Introduction: This basically climbs the rappel route for the Diagonal. It's chossy, run out, and only gets worse the higher you go. However, it's a fun adventure for those solid for the grade and looking to break away from the trade routes.Pitch 1:Start up a textured slab staying right of the corner. Climb mostly straight up, getting gear where you can in horizontals, to a bolted anchor on a tree ledge.Pitch 2:Move left off the belay under a big ledge and skirt it to climber's left in a bushy corner. Direct variations exist, but are unprotected and increase the grade. Continue up slabs above to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.Pitch 3:This next pitch is a bit contrived and incredibly loose. Climb up disconnected flakes to a roof, move out left onto the face. Climb up the low angle face, taking care not to break off holds, then mantel into conifer trees. Belay on trees.Descent:Bushwhack a few feet to the Diagonal descent trail and follow that back to the pitch 2 anchor. 2 raps with a single rope will get you down.

A climb that many saw for years but nobody felt like drawing the stares enough to bolt it. Well, we did and it was worth it! Pitch 2 was previously toproped by Nate Vince and Hope Chipman. 

  P1: Pad up the easy slab without gear for 30 or so feet to a grassy ledge. Step left and up on quartz to a bolt and good edges. Once under the small roof, traverse right and up to a wild move left above the void and pull up to a stance below the second roof. Gain the edge under the roof and make a second wild traverse to the right before clipping one final bolt and up to a ring-bolt anchor. (5.10a) 

  P2: Clip a bolt and rock up and right to the slab. Work up the slab to the steep face with great jugs above. Navigate a tricku crux sequence to a decent shake and a second puzzling crux then continue up to a ring-bolt anchor. (5.10b/c) 

*New beta on P2 seems to have brought the grade down to 10b but we'll see what repeat attempts think*

As you top out on The Diagonal you'll probably think there can't be any more good rock above here. It doesn't look that inviting to be honest. However, the rock quality and aesthetics do get a lot better the further you go up.P1 (5.9+ 90'): Move left from the belay and up to a big ledge. Before mantling up, you should be able to clip a bolt (with a long runner) that is on this ledge. Head up and right aiming for two bolts to guide you in the right direction. This marks the crux of the route. It's pretty short and well protected by the two close bolts. Move up from here and when possible get out right on the arête above. The exposure starts to kick in around here. There's a big ledge above this section that you can build a gear belay on.P2 (5.7, 40'): Continue up to the obvious top. There's a really fun large hand crack near the top on the left that you shouldn't miss. A gear anchor at a nice ledge on the top of the cliff marks the end.It's definitely possible to combine both of these pitches together without too much rope drag. Double ropes and long runners will help.Descent: From the top, hike climber's right and down a bit to another rap route. It's a fairly obvious trail that may be marked with orange/red tape. Look for a nice ledge out to the right. Once you see it, you'll hop down a 4ft. step to reach it. There are two anchors not visible from the trail. The one closest to the edge will have rap rings. A single 60m rope will take you to the next ledge (I don't recommend 2 ropes for this first rap - a bit dirty). After that, a required double rope rap will take you back to the ground and your packs. Alternatively, a shorter first rappel just down the slab will allow you to walk climber's left to reach the top of The Diagonal (where Right Finish started). From here, two more single rope rappels will take you to the ground via the Flight of the Manatee midway anchor.

Gatekeeper 5.12+ (5.7 pg-13) 3 stars / 3 pitches 175’

 P1. Start left of the Quartz Crack Face, left of the gully that leads up to Skywalk (.10b) at a crack system with a lone bolt up high. Climb the crack being cautious of loose rock on the right and clip the bolt to pull up and over to a bolted anchor station. ~ 50’ , 5.8+ ( you can skip this pitch by climbing down left and up to a small ledge to launch. Can easily link this into P2 to the start of P3 from this ledge.)

 P2. Step up and left and follow the weakness, placing gear and being cautious for loose rock. Clip a bolt ¾ of the way and step up up and left being mindful of the large block, aiming for the anchor bolts that start P3. 5.7 PG-13 ~75’

 P3. The money pitch! Leave the belay and undercling the thin seam in the roof clipping bolts along the way. Get to the rest jug, shake out, clip… figure out the crux and pull over the lip! End at a bolted belay station. ~50’

 Descent: Rappel over the lip into the brush/tree's below and find another bolted rappel anchor and rap to the ground (useful to saddlebag rope's here and mind the loose rock. Walk back around to the packs.

 Single 60M rope. Light cam rack - Red C3 to #2

 FA: Tim Farr & Matt Karkut, 2017 (Originally aided on gear by Tim at C2/+, He returned to place bolts on P3) FFA: Troy Anger & Tim Farr, July 5th, 2019

This is the namesake route on this wall for good reason — a well deserved classic that comes with a sense of adventure. You'll also be the star of the show all day as tourists gawk up at you from the parking lot.

 P1 (5.5, ~60'): Go straight up, past 2 bolts to a nice ledge with a new two bolt rap anchor. It's possible (and I recommend) combining this pitch with the next one.

 P2 (5.7, 70'): Move left from the anchor and up an easy corner trending back right almost immediately. Near the end of the pitch, continue up steeper terrain past an old pin or two to another nice ledge and a bolted rap anchor.

 P3 (5.8, 95'; 5.6R): Move left off the belay again to the obvious crack. Some tricky pro and 3 ancient pins to get started. You'll pass some white quartz through this section that gives the route its name. After 40', run it out over easier terrain to a right facing corner above and a little left (pretty obvious). There are currently some really old, terrible cord slung around a block in this corner. Don't use it. Continue up to a new two-bolt rap anchor just above, under the roof.

 P4 (5.9, 100'): Don't skip this pitch. It's the money in my opinion. Traverse low and right until under a corner system and a terrible bolt that can be backed up with a very small cam. Move up from here, passing more ancient relics (and gear options that you should use) through the crux corner. Expect this to either be wet or mossy. Go all the way up this corner to under a roof. Don't traverse right too early. See               

P4, traversing too early.  Don't go this way!  You're supposed to be up about 15 ft. higher into the corner above where this climber is, directly under the massive roof above.       for what not to do! Once under the roof, move right to a good ledge and gear/tree anchor.

 P4 Aid Variation / Quartz Crack Roof (5.9 C2, 90'): Probably the best aid climb in all of Vermont, this variation follows a thin seam in the roof that the traditional fourth pitch traverses underneath. Begin the same as P4, climbing up into the corner under the roof and traversing climber's right with hands just below the roof. When you reach a thin seam in the roof, marked by a crack that is flared left and a few pitons that may have been the belay for this pitch, begin directly back onto the roof. Follow that seam through to some smaller cam and possibly nut placements, clipping an old piton and button head, as well as a brand new bolt along the way. Use a combination of aid and free moves to come over the roof, set a gear anchor, and then bushwack straight back about 10 - 15 feet for a climbers trail for the rappel.

 The aid pitch is incredibly exposed with about 300 feet of air directly beneath you, and is an incredible experience for anyone who aids (or just wants to do this awesome route).

 Interesting to note that the P3 belay and entire climb of this pitch is totally protected from any time of rain the notch can throw at you, which can be a fun experience.

 Descent: You can rap from any of the first 3 pitches easily. Once you top out, you'll have to hike climber's right on the Beduin Trail a bit to another rap route. It's a pretty obvious trail that may be marked with orange or pink tape. Find a trail skiers right which leads to a nice ledge with two anchors on it. The one closest to the edge will have rap rings. A single 60m rope will take you to the top of the first pitch of Flight of the Manatee and a second rap gets you to the ground a few hundred feet climber's right of the base of Quartz Crack. Additionally, if you have a tagline or climbed as a group of three, a single-strand rappel with a 60m will get you from the top rappel station to the ground in one rappel. It is a true rope stretcher so tie your knots. Lighter climbers may find themselves tiptoeing the ground, so have the heaviest climber go first to help.

Quartz Crack Roof is a seldom aided, but incredible clean aid climb, likely the best in Vermont. With intimidating exposure and mostly good gear, this route is a fun one for any aid climber.

 With 300 feet of air beneath you, this route is intimidating and exposed. It's nearly as difficult and scary for the follower as it is the leader, so beware of that bringing up people that are new to aid. 

Beta:

Follow the beginning of Pitch 4 of Quartz Crack up to the corner and begin traversing right beneath the roof. It may be beneficial to belay from somewhere in here due to the immense amount of rope drag generated on the roof, especially after pulling the roof, but I'm not sure if you'd be able to find enough pieces.

 Right after where the crack flares to the left there's a set of 3 old pins, directly above that and out about 2.5 feet is the first piece in the seam of the roof that you'll aid. Follow that out, free and aid over the lip, and build a gear anchor on the roof.

Descent: Head directly through the bushes at the top of the climb, bushwacking about 15 feet to a climbers trail. You could also traverse around to the left, but that is a bit more difficult and has much higher consequences in the case of slipping (a 300 fall off a face). Follow the ski trail climbers left and down as you do the standard Quartz Crack Descent.

Gear: Make sure both the leader and follower have etriers or aiders, daisies, and a fifi. It might also be helpful for the follower to have some means of ascending if they fall. 

From atop of P2 of The Diagonal, move up and hard left from the belay about 20' to a series of steep bulges and cracks on good holds. Pull the bulges and trend up and left to an exposed stance headed towards a lone bolt. Clip the bolt, pull up making a series of committing moves to the Quartz under-cling and a good cam placements. Pull out left through the final overhang onto a comfy ledge and a ring bolt anchor.

‘Public Indecency’ ~ 280’ 3 pitches with alternate (easier) 3rd pitch

 Description: This route has long been looked at by many a Notch climber, and it delivers! With a moderate, all bolted, first pitch; a super fun and interesting second pitch and a high exposure third pitch (with an alternate easier variation) with a short approach from the road, this route is easily destined to be a Smugglers Notch classic!!

 Getting There: Located between the starts of The Quartz Crack and The Diagonal; scramble up to the ledge between these two climbs making a few 4th class moves to establish oneself on a ledge with a large block leaning against the cliff. Alternately, climb up pitch 1 of quartz crack and diverge up and right after the second bolt (.75 cam helpful) on the first pitch of Quartz Crack.

 Rack: While much of the route is bolted, a light cam rack is useful for pitches 2 & 3. Rack of .3 - 2”. (Light cam rack to #4 for P3 left Vari.).

A beefy, durable rope is useful for the sharper edges encountered along the entirety of route. This is the Notch after all!!

 Pitch 1: 5.8 Sport 90’ It’s on! Start atop the large boulder on the ledge, clip a bolt and make a “game on” move to start up the route. Follow bolts up and right to a right facing corner and stem between the corner and feet on the arete. Fun movement on good rock leads to a large ledge and a bolted chain anchor. Pitch 1 was climbed Fall 2017. FA: Steve Charest & Tim Farr

 Pitch 2: 5.11a Mixed 100’ From the anchor moved out right towards two small triangular blocks for your hands and clip the first bolt, move down and around then back up to a slopey rail and clip the next. Continue up following a couple more bolts and a jug before moving left into the stellar finger crack to place gear at its entrance. Sort out the moves in the crack to clip a pin and a bolt at the exit. Gain a shallow ledge and milk a brief rest then continue stepping left through easier terrain then up into the pitches third change in character. Gain an undercling, clip a bolt, then sort out the last several moves to the routes last bolt and a mantle onto a small ledge and a bolted ring anchor. Couple alpine slings helpful to cut down on rope drag throughout the pitch. FA: Steve Charest & Tim Farr

 Pitch 3: 5.12+ mixed 80’ Step up and right passing two bolts up into easier terrain to place good gear in a crack on the left (extend draw). Continue up through moderate terrain to gain a bolt then turn into the layback crack, careful avoiding loose rock in the crack to gain a shallow shelf to clip another bolt up over your head. Move right finding a good finger lock and quartz pinch to slap around the corner with cool exposure and a hidden jug and another bolt. Run up a small ramp to a ledge and get ready for the crux! Clip a bolt then sort out the moves to gain another bolt with nothing but air below you. Wild! Pull up and over placing gear and gain the large ledge and a bolted ring anchor! Careful to avoid loose rock and blocks on the ledge. FFA: Kris Fiore

 *Clipping an alpine draw to the second to last bolt of this pitch cuts down on the rope drag considerably. This pitch still awaiting an FFA

 Pitch 3 Vari. : 5.8+ Mixed 80’ 3 stars From the top of pitch two, step up and right passing two bolts and gaining easier ground to a crack for gear. Continue up and left clipping pins and small cracks to a cave like ledge and larger crack for the #4 cam. Pull through finding easier terrain above exiting up and right at a bolted ring anchor shared with pitch 3. Careful to avoid loose rock and blocks on the ledge. *sections of this pitch has been previously climbed (..old pins) as an alternate last pitch to the Quartz Crack. FA: Steve Charest & Tim Farr

 Descent: You can make 3 rappels with a single 60m rope down the Quartz Crack face using the bolted stations used on the ascent. From atop the large ledge, rappel hard left towards the pitch 3 variation exit careful to avoid sharp edges. For the last rappel go all the way to the ground towards the start of the route The Diagonal.

 FA: Tim Farr & Steve Charest : Aug. 31, 2018

A good route, especially the upward leaning crack on the second pitch.  It has some fun climbing and good exposure. 

P1 (5.6, 120'): Start up an easy slab, aiming for a tree in vertical rock.  It's possible (maybe a little harder than the grade, to avoid using the tree altogether.  From there, continue up easier ground past a bolt to a two-bolt rap anchor beneath the crack of P2. 

P2 (5.8+, 50'): A short but fun pitch.  Start under the roof, making an awkward move to get established in the crack.  Possible to protect this move with really small or slightly large pro (4" probably - we didn't have on).  From there climb up the crack.   Fun movement throughout.  Stop at a nice belay with a 2 bolt anchor. 

  From here, a double-rope rappel will take you back to the ground or with the addition of Flight of the Manatee, you can now do this in two single-rope rappels.  Two other finishes will also take you to the top of the cliff (recommended).

Pitch 1: Climb the low angle corner for a few feet before trending left on a slightly steeper face to a stance below the roof. Plug some gear in the finger crack and pull out onto the wild, nearly horizontal ceiling. Figure out how to pull the roof, and make one of burliest 5.9 crux moves around. Continue up easier ground and belay from gear (2 camalot) below the large roof. 50 feetPitch 2: Traverse out right off the belay and pull into the juggy corner. Continue straight up with increasing difficulty to a tricky move pulling over the final roof and out of the corner. Scramble up easy slab, trending left to the bolted anchor atop pitch 1 of The Diagonal. Alternatively, it is possible to keep traversing right off the belay, past bottom of the corner and up the final 5 or 6 bolts of the first pitch of Flight of the Manatee. 70 feetPitches could easily be linked but would require thoughtful gear placement and extensions. 

If you enjoy being gawked at by tourists, this is the place to climb!  The main parking lot in the notch offers a great view of this impressive section of rock.  It's big, steep, and has huge roofs near the top. 

  Most of the routes (including the namesake Quartz Crack 5.9) on this wall come in at the sub 5.10 level, but shouldn't be underestimated.  The protection is generally pretty good, but there can be mandatory run-outs on easier ground. 

  The wall faces southeast and gets sun from the morning through the greater part of the day.  Storms can roll in even on a bluebird day in the notch. 

  Most of the popular routes on the wall will have new bolted rappel options to bail.  However, once you top out on the cliff, you'll have to hike off [climber's right] a ways to find the rappel.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Quartz Crack Face