This route has been retro bolted with FA's permission. Bryan climbed this route on trad gear a few years before the crag even had a name (2004?). Bryan gave me permission to make it a sport route, since nobody ever brings trad gear up the hill.

The climbing on this route is really fun and engaging. Start with a tricky section on blocky rock involving handjams and tricky body positions. The second half of the route above the ledge climbs an incredible series of seams, pinches, and even a granite tufa to the anchor.

Bryan's route originally went over the final bulge, and his anchor still remains for those that want the full big Beav experience.

Big Bad Beav

Schwagn Wagon

Streaky (OPEN PROJECT)

Three Ring Circus

Pocket Talk

Eukie Arete

Vista Cruiser Extension

Straw Into Gold

Eukie Extension

Slippery Slope

Vista Cruiser

Creme de la Poudre

Easy Eukie

This project is broken into two distinct sections by a ledge. The first half climbs a beautiful, technical slab on black and orange streaked rock. The second section climbs a steep, short overhang involving a huge move to a pinch flake.

Climb easy terrain to the third bolt. Move right up a short crack, then hand traverse back left to the fourth bolt (crux). Climb the obvious corner all the way to the ledge.

Start up a dirty crack or the first two bolts of

Schwagn Wagon

to gain a ledge, then delicately climb a short, broken section before pulling the crux and enjoying the steep, right-leaning crack to the top.

Start by climbing a short moderate wall to the ramp/ledge. Once you reach the steep wall, engage the massive, hueco feature, and climb up into the top of

Three Ring Circus

.

Eukie Arete is a slightly contrived line that starts on

Easy Eukie

. Climb

Easy Eukie

until you pass the mantel after the chain draw. From here, move right to a jug at the base of a short orange arete. Compression climbing leads to a deadpoint to the top of the arete.

Climb

Vista Cruiser

to the anchor and get a full rest. From here, climb into the base of the roof, and do a very tricky sequence to get up and around it. Continuous 5.12 climbing in a steep dihedral leads to the anchor.

The first section of this route is a fantastic 12b in its own right. There is a bail biner at the end of this section, a proper anchor will be installed ASAP.

From the no-hands rest below the big roof do a tricky move to gain the big horizontal. From here continue on edges moving up then left then back up and right again to the incredible headwall.

From the chains of

Easy Eukie

, engage a tricky layback feature right off the ledge. At the end of the layback flake, do a big move left (crux) followed by more 5.12 climbing to the anchor at the top of the wall.

Start on some tricky slab terrain to the break. A tricky bulge gets you to more jugs at the start of the crux. Slap your way up a compression feature to the horizontal seam. Do a big move to the chiseled slot followed by some incredibly technical and balancy dihedral work (crux). After resting on the ramp above the crux, get ready for the final "5.12 punch it move" to gain the top of the wall and the chains.

There are two manufactured holds on this route.

Some video of the route:

vimeo.com/90259193

Climb the obvious white dihedral with a tricky mantel crux at the second bolt.

This is one of the most obvious and sought after lines at the cliff. The rock is reminiscent of Mt. Arapiles or the Grampians in Australia.

Climb an easy intro section to the jugs at the 3rd bolt. From here, you're stuck with an incredibly slopey, right hand, layback rail and a few miserable, left hand holds. It is still probably 13- through the last bolt or two after the crux.

Climb the nice, overhanging flakes to a crux mantel at the chain draw. Continue up the corner to a crux before the ledge/anchors. The first section of this route to the chain draw is the favorite warm-up at the crag at 5.11+.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Vista Crag