Flight Off the Swallow 5.9 *** 105' M(9b)

Takes a direct line up the face right of big inside corner and the dark (green/black) water streak to the 2 bolt and chain anchors over top. Lower gear protected cruxes (5.7-8) lead to bolt protected main crux near the top. This is a consistently fun and challenging route on sometimes friable rock, but with always good protection. Possible to lower with 60m rope, may want a cordelette to extend the top anchors beyond the lip if toproping..

Flight of the Swallow

When Doves Coo

Pigeon Arete

When Doves Cry

The Night Watch

West With the Night

THE NIGHT WATCH 5.6 ** (90') F/M (7b)

Begin at the base of the corner/chimney and climb the right side of the face on the left (East-face) to the chains. Pretty fun, consistent climbing. May want a #1 cam before the midpoint crux.

WHEN DOVES COO 5.8 ** (2 pitch) M

P1  5.7 * 70' M (1b) - Start as for Watermark but traverse right along the main horizontal crack above the roof to the two ring anchor (semi-hanging belay).

P2  5.8 ** 60' M (4b) - Traverse right past the main crack and then climb up to the right arête to belay at the single bolt anchor (with gear) right of the current bush. Very interesting climbing with nice exposure.

PIGEON ARETE 5.3( PG)  120' G

The west side of the prominent arête, looks better (and harder) than it actually is. Starting in the corner below the big overhang, climb up and left along the arête to the 2 bolt anchor on top. Not recommended, with poor rock and protection.

WHEN DOVES CRY 5.10d ** (2 pitch) M

An adventure - big exposure, some questionable rock, but also great pro and climbing.

P1  5.10 * 85' M (4b) Begin low on the right end of the big West face, climb diagonally left through the crumbling offwidth/corner/roof. Belay at mid-face at the 2 ring anchors.

P2  5.10d ** 70' M (5b) - Climb directly up to the 2 bolt anchor/belay at the top of the arête. Sustained and interesting climbing needs a wide range of cams to protect.

WEST WITH THE NIGHT 5.9 * (100') M (5b)

Climbs the left side of the East facing side of the main corner to the chain anchors at the top. Start low and follow the arête through the two small roofs (upper one the crux). The rest of the climbing is easy, and enjoyable, a range of cams and nuts are needed

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Big Butte - West Face